VOGUES AND VAGARIES.

Sun (Auckland), Volume 1, Issue 41, 11 May 1927, Page 4

VOGUES AND VAGARIES.

(By MADAME JEANNE VARREZ.) It is now certain that flounces and frills will largely determine the feminine silhouette of the future. Flounces large and small are being lavishly used by the big designers: flounces straight and flounces shaped, and flounces in every sort of fabric. Some of the most attractive, because the most alluringly simple, of the new ensembles in tine serge or cloth gain distinction from a pleated flounce on both dress and coat. Even sports frocks have a circularshaped flounce on a short skirt. Two or three shaped and pleated flounces at the hem form a characteristic feature of straight taffeta dresses. Short frilled skirts are the universal cachet of the smart ball gown, materialised in chiffon or tulle as to jupe, and moire or lame as to the quaint, long corsage. Whole frocks of flounces appear among the robes en dentelle. One of the most charming examples I have seen was a dress of cream lace, consisting of flonnces of lace interspersed with ffnely knitted pink chiffon, with a pink chiffon corsage, smartened by a shaped lace bolero by way of ultra-modish finishing touch. The bolero itself was arranged in flounce form.

* * * Among the elite, the embroidered shawl has a rival successor in a large shawl of heavy shaded georgette. The shading is divided into three distinctly defined sections, such as palest pink deepening into cerise, palest yellow into orange, or a tri-colour effect of which a characteristic example is dark red, beige and orange. All such shawls like their predecessors, are finished off with sumptuous fringes which exactly match the triple tones of the wrap itself. Voluminous enough to serve as evening cloaks proper, the new wraps are the special delight of the welldressed woman with a strong artistic kink.

* *• * I notice that Bangkok is once again the favoured straw for millinery. Very fine makes of straw are cunningly mixed with petersham. Wide petershams, in fact, are taking the place of the übiquitous light-weight felts, and some of the most fascinating of the ribbon models are fashioned in the beret style. A beret of draped petersham has a straw brim and trimming. Black and white and brown and pale beige are the smartest colour alliances.

Many “tailored” frocks borrow a characteristic note from the sports r rock, in that they are collarless and Inished at the neck with a wide cravat if foulard. The masculine silk scarf, In fact, complete with stripes. Pour thanger, other models show an inchhfgh collar standing out a little from he neck all round. Yet another notion s no collar whatsoever, the front of the dress being fastened by large ornanental links.

* * * Novelties in the lingerie department include a new ty r pe of cami-petticoat fvith a brief skirt composed entirely if deep silk fringe. Also a cami-bocker garment, with “bib” front, for evening vear. It is entirely backless, and moreover does away with any material under the arms. It is obviously designed

for wear with low'-cut gowns with the new scooped-out armholes. The bit front is fastened to the “bockers” by ong straps of satin ribbon. There is some delightful lingerie of 'be more tailored order in heavy washing satin or crepe, and small pearl buttons are extensively used as trimmings Drawn thread work is also “in” again as a decorative motif for silken or lawn garments. Stitchery of all kinds, In fact, is skilfully employed to tend elaboration to lingerie of the simplest cut.

Jewellery fs more and more “amusing.” Bracelets of brilliant stones art ranged on the arms so thickly that .hey look like deep cuffs! And belts of “jewels” girdle the hips of evening gowns. Long pendant ear-rings set with huge solitaire stones dictate a linger-

print mode en suite, nuge single-stone tings are worn by the smart Parisienne.

There is also a growing “feeling” for the classic jewelled cap fGr theatre wear. But the “Juliet” cap of seed pearls is now replaced by a fine platinum or silver net affair, extremely flexible and adaptable, and richly studded With brilliants.

With tailor-made suits and frocks ! so much to the fore, the modern girl has little use for the “slinky silhouette,” except occasionally, in the evening. Still there are times when she likes to veer suddenly, in truly feminine fashion, from the simple, ( boyish tailleur to the sophisticated, j womanly gown. And this is where j the newest development of the pouched bodice and godet skirt comes in! It gives to the figure a certain sinuous line which, for variety’s sake, may appeal. The bodice is pouched at the back only, the front being so severely plain that it seems almost to be dragged down to the waistline which rises slightly in front and dips at the back. The skirt, on the other hand, is perfectly plain and straight at the back, while in front a series of fringed godets cause it to billow out like an “umbrella” skirt. The model I saw was carried out in crimson crepe de chine with black silk fringe on the godets, and a black satin belt swathed tightly round the hips and fastened in front with a crimson buckle. On the dark, slim, sylph-like mannequin who displayed it, the gown certainly looked wonderfully attractive, though on a less j sylph-like figure it would undoubtedly ; look ridiculous! It is pleasant occa- j sionally to be able to emphasise those ; slender lines on which La Mode has bestowed her approval, so that the : idea may well be adopted by those j whom it will suit. ALL-IN-ONE LINGERIE An interesting development in even- I ing lingerie modes is the new combination garment which does away with the necessity for separate belt, brassiere and knickers; in fact, it reduces to a minimum the number of garments worn beneath the dress. The brassiere, in strong satin to accord with the colour of the gown, or in brocade if the frock be of this material, extends to the hips and dips slightly back and front. Attached to this are knickers to match, their fullness being drawn into deep bands which fasten with tiny, decorative buttons just above the knees. Thils the bulging gathers below the knee are avoided, and a trim, neat line is maintained. AnotheF version of the all-in-one garment, for the more developed figure, has a strengthened hip belt in addition to the brassiere. With the present craze for slender lines, these lingerie notions should prove very popular. NEW FOOTWEAR Black patent leather is the approved footwear for morning and afternoon—and exceedingly fine black silk stockings! Since one or two accepted leaders of fashion have adopted the black stocking vogue it is sure to have a big following: it may even supersede the popular gun-metal grey. Slender, well-shaped ankles look even more slender when clad in cobwebby black silk, and of course women with thick ankles never attempt to wear any colour that is likely to draw undue attention to them. Black silk stockings, therefore, will be included in every smart woman’s wardrobe this season.

A useful pad for dusting gramophone records can be made from a piece of velvet sewn up in the shape of a small bag and filled with scraps of knitting-wool or soft material cut into tiny pieces.

If boiling water is poured over prawns and they are allowed to cool for a few minutes they will be very easy to shell.