VOGUES AND VAGARIES

Sun (Auckland), Volume 1, Issue 31, 29 April 1927, Page 5

VOGUES AND VAGARIES

(By MADAME JEANNE VARREZ)

press is going to be the simplest thing! But not by any means inexpensive, alas! It is plain to see that the designers are putting their very best work into the little jumper suits with chic cardigan jackets to match, that look like becoming the almost uniform wear. A tour of the ateliers makes it evident that the simpler the ensemble the bigger the bill! But how irresistible they are, these neat short skirts with their stitched-on jumper tops, the jupe pleated and the jumpertop trimmed with bandings of two or three different colours, which are repeated in the binding of the cardigan. * * * ' Scarcely less fascinating are the jaquettes, cut on masculine lines and braided with infinite chic, which are to be -worn with check and plaid skirts and smart over-blouses. Anything that is not in the nature of a plarfcied ensemble will fail of smartness. Thus, as a dressy alternative the designers present the long coat with dress to match, the skirt showing the shirring vogue and the bodice the craze for tucking. The coats mostly have standup collars and straight cuffs edged with braid, galon, or smiliar trimming. * * * The leit-motif of modern sporting attire, in fact —that is to say, a matching simplicity—is influencing every other mode. By the same token, light and supple felt hats will be worn right through the season. Huge hats of softest felt will shade us from the burning rays of the sun and in many cases will follow the lines of the romantic Spanish sombrero. One has to see the effect of such a chapeau (in black) with a slim and simple gown to realise its amazing chic. * * * Meanwhile milliners are hunting out old paste ornaments, antique jewelled pins—any and every picturesque and artistic form of old jewellery craftsmanship wherewith to adorn these models, which gain a unique “air” when this trimming touch is cunningly applied. * * * Paris is making a bid for feminine favour with two conspicuous novelties. One is the blouse-knickers model, which is made in one piece and worn under a skirt. Tentatively introduced last year for tennis, it is now evolved into a street-wear ensenmble. Sometimes the skirt to be worn with this combination garment is made with “bretelles” (braces). The other innovation is lace knickers which cover the knee —for afternoon and evening wear. They are mainly designed as lingerie complements for picture frocks and are, of course, the privilege of youth—or thereabouts!

The prospective return of the normal blouse is another point to be noted. Short blouses to tuck inside the skirt are apparently to be worn again. And this must mean absolutely, of course, the raising of the waistline. Meanwhile the designers are leading us gently to the change, as it were, by supplying the intriguing little “extensions” to the top of the skirt. Sometimes this takes the form of a sort of “collar” round the waist about four to five inches high, while a still more enterprising “expansion” evolves itself into a low-cut waistcoat complete with buttons. No collars, round necks, and pretty smocking characterise the new tuck-in blouses. * * • Among the amusing etceteras in the Paris shops I found tiny scent bottles to be worn on bangles. These are coloured to fit in with the rest of the accessories. Belts, bands and bags are made in webbing of two shades. Gay strips of woven beadwork, Victorian in design, are the newest thing in choker ties. The latest hatband notion is crochet work in heavy silk and galon, arranged in a jewellery design like a mock bracelet.