FRILLS ADS & OIBLES

Sun (Auckland), Volume 1, Issue 23, 19 April 1927, Page 5

FRILLS ADS & OIBLES

Fleet Street , London. Special Feature supplied excluisvely to THE SUN, Auckland, by The Central Press .

VOGUES AND VAGARIES

(By

MADAME JEANNE VARREZ.

Waistcoats for women” is apparently to be one of the watchwords of the future. The “gilet” accompanies practically every tailor-made, and further appears in ravishingly feminine guise on frocks and even toilettes de soiree. The type worn with the tailored suit may be cut on Georgian lines; long, with pointed flaps that come well below the hips. Or it may be a short and severe affair cut precisely on the lines of an up-to-date masculine waistcoat. Some of the most chic, examples are modelled on the lines of the orthodox masculine white waistcoat for evening wear. Materials are fascinating alike in genre and range. Though the ultramodish navy suits (that are obviously to lead the new fashions) are given gilets of self-material, with a beige or flesh-pink shirt for relief note, the almost equally well-worn grey tweed en suites introduce the waistcoat of a different colour, usually in a lighter tone than that of the costume itself. Other models sponsor the patterned material vogue, in which skirt and waistcoat are en suite, while the coat is in a plain cloth that picks up the prevailing colour-note, of the paterned fabric. As for the dressy afternoon frock or suit, the scope of materials includes brocade, satin and lame, one or other of which goes to the fashioning of the most alluring gilet de luxe. Fortunate possessors of genuine waistcoat antiques in much beflowered brocade are having them adapted to the all-pre-vailing vogue, and the costume choice is a suit of rich, heavy faille silk, the satin, taffetas or even lame, waistcoat being quilted. Waistcoat buttons merit a paragraph in themselves. Such an array! “Pearlies,” carved tortoiseshell, jewels, paste, enamel—you have but to take your choice. Instead of the fob a touch of embroidery simulates a seal. Patchwork waistcoats will lend a real harlequin touch to the links, for the golfing edition of the mode is materialised in a medley of the most lurid colours imaginable.

Many of the newest outdoor suits consist of a neat skirt and jumper, and the simplest of collarless coats. One attractive example seen at a recent dress show was of marocain in a novel shade of biege, christened “dawn” because of the strong hint of pink :in its composition. The suit was most becomingly bound in two shades of mauve; one deep as plum and the other several tones lighter. Side pleats on the skirt showed both these colours inside. A charming innovation. The silk jumper was also in “•dawn,’ but several tones lighter than the suit, and it had a simple polo collar and a button fastening down the centre front to the waistline, the buttons being stitched on a strip of plumcoloured crepe de chine finished en pointe; while the hem of the jumper repeated the colour motif.

ARTFULLY ARTLESS SIMPLICITY Evening frocks have filmy waistlength capes or floating panels to relieve their artfully artless simplicity. The elaborate fringed shawl still remains an ally of the toilette de soiree, and is a great beauty-aid for those who find the severity of the sheathlike modern evening gown a little trying. Lace over chiffon expresses some of the most diaphonously feminine evening modes. A typical and lovely example was a dress of soft white dentelle over chiffon of palest pink. This model illustrated the cape vogue in a waist-length affair en suite which fell from the shoulders at the back. An enormous terracotta flower adorned the left shoulder, well to the back, and an en suite motif was provided in a soft narrow sash of the same coloured chiffon, knotted at the waist. The black and white vogue is to be with us again, and is already illustrated in matching hats and bags of ultra-smart inspiration expressed in black and white doe-skin. Black and white gauntlet gloves follow the same lead. Gloves, by the way, are being given gauntlets on the grand scale, so pronounced as to lend a cachet to the simplest suit or frock. They must absolutely match the hat and bag and shoes. THE DANCE IS THE THING Peggy, a fascinating girl of my acquaintance, took me in the wake of her tripping silver charleston shoes to a certain dance-club the other evening. I came away with one outstanding impression. In the modern dance-hall the dance is indubitably the thing. Sitting-out is a virtually unappreciated pastime. You may be pretty as may be and seductive as a screen heroine, but you will be partnerless if your terpischorean skill—judged by ultra-modern standards —is not equal to your feminine charm. Charm, per se, is a negligible matter where earnest charlestoners are concerned.

At this particular dance the most sought-after damsel was a young woman with an unmistakable squint, and limbs that would make an artist shudder. That is not picturesque fiction, but plain (very plain!) unvarnished fact. Miss Squint led the ball throughout. Those fearsomely articulated muscles of hers, tautly encased in flesh-pink silk, were never out of the limelight. On the other hand, one of the most exquisitively pretty sylphs I have seen for many a long year played the role of almost permanent wallflower.

And Peggy assured me that the deserted beauty, who was deplorably deficient, it seemed, in terpischorean skill, invariably found herself in the same sad case. Peggy' hazarded the opinion that probably some of the boys would like to sit out with her occasionally', but that would mean asking her for the next dance. A sacrifice not to be compensated for by glorious eyes, Titian locks, and a 'smile that would have gone like wine to the head of a more romantic generation! Better sit out with a homelyfeatured, “good sport,” whose toes were expertly attuned to charleston fantasies, and who could be relied on to take the floor with athletic flair. “And to think,” confided Peggy', “that I had the work of the world to persuade Daddy that the dancing is all that matters, and that the club was not a happy hunting-ground for hectic flirtations!” Then added wickedly: “I had to bring him here before he would believe the truth. I’m afraid the poor romantic darling had a fearfully thin time. The club beauty wasn’t here that night!’ E.V. A piece of soap should be held behind the material when doing eyeletwork. Push the stiletto through the linen or cotton into the soap and a nice stiff edge, easy to work, will result.

HERBS AND BEAUTY Cosmetic herbs were known for generations to our ancestors, who treasured many a recipe that included such tilings as rosemary and marshmallow, pyrethrum and mullein —all famous for engendering a clear complexion. For nervous affections resulting in tired eyes and lines about the mouth, brews made from borage and balm, lemon verbena and woodruff are recommended. Those who suffer from insomnia are told to fly the cowslip and primrose teas. Limeflower and orange buds also have their adherents when sleep flees from the pillow. For tissues that sag and need an astringent, lotions made from myrtle water are advocated, while from elder flowers is made a soap said to be wonderful in transforming a rough skin into a velvety one. The seeds of various plants are likewise used for toilet preparations, notably quince seeds and those of the pomegranate. THE VAMPIRE There is another type of vampire than the lady who is all out to “ put it across ” the sterner sex. The particular kind of “ vamp ” I have in mind is a creature of terrific vanity and colossal emotional appetites, who feeds on the more or less foolish confidences

of those who mistake l*er vampire qualities for exquisite sympathy and understanding. Understanding she certainly is! She understands with uncanny prescience just what to say and how to act in the presence of her victims. She knows the art of leading them down the garden from A to Z. And when she has stripped their souls naked and satisfied her abominable curiosity to its fullest extent, she sends them away with the conviction that at last they have found the Perfect Friend. Until the inevitable disillusionment comes, and the Perfect Friend is revealed in her true colours. The process is usually stunning in its swiftness, and some simple souls take a long time to recover from the shock of discovery. Others learn wisdom from the encounter, and adopt a protective cyncism that holds them immune from similar experiences. It is the former who ought to be forewarned and forearmed in the company of the vamp. First, they should know how to recognise her wicked magnetism! That caressing voice, those eyes that seem to radiate sympathy and goodwill, that diabolical flair for establishing instantaneous telepathetic contacts—such are the weapons with which the emotionvampire does her deadly work. And it is all the more deadly because, for the time being, she is perfectly sincere. She really is acutely interested in the mental and temperamental make-up of her victim. But it is an interest that is speedily satisfied and degenerates forthwith into boredom. The simple soul that gives all it has to give learns that the exquisite sympathy and responsiveness which was to kindle a new glory in every-day living was but the gratification of overweening vanity; the triumphant expression of the “ I-can-do-what-I-like-with-anyone ” type, that is happy only when it is vaunting its psychological prowess, and making conquests that shall entail none of the irk of sustained comradeship.

LEATHER FURNISHINGS There is no end to the uses to which leather is put nowadays. It is even employed for the fashioning of a bedspread. The shape favoured is that of the Queen Anne period, and a repousse panel of decorated leather in the form of flower clusters is shaped to suit the contours of the two portions. The rose, yellow and green of the flowers show up admirably against the nut-brown of the rest of the leather* A polished leather cover for sideboards is another innovation. If the handles of the drawers and cupboard are of brass, small nails headed with the same metal form a decorative finish to the edges. A nail-studded chest, after the fashion of an old-fashioned travelling trunk of hide, with an ornamental lock of openwork metal gilt looks most effective backed by a piece of scarlet leather cut to shape. This addition of coloured leather fronted with pierced metal gives quite a mediaeval air to a hall. Such chests are useful for housing rugs, extra blankets and travelling raiment when there is a scarcity of box room. Screens of tooled and gilt leather are also in demand. They are expensive, hence the vogue among amateurs for leathercraft lessons from experienced teachers. Charming boxes for needlework, cigarettes, cards and stationery are being made from decorated leather stretched over boxes of white wood. The inner side of the wood is generally enamelled in some bright colour, such as vermilion or turquoise blue. —F.F. COLOUR! One tall vase that’s chosen with care; a cushion to match on a comfy chair; a corner bookshelf, with cre-tonne-bound books; and your friends will say, “How artistic it looks!” “ Picking-up ” colours is wonderful fun, as you’re sure to agree when the job is done, and the corner that once was an eyesore to you, is transformed to an alcove of beauty—for two! TO STRENGTHEN BUTTONHOLES Kiddies’ garments frequently tear before the material is worn out, be-

cause of the severe strain imposed on the buttonholes —especially in tho case of rompers and crawlers. The life of these useful little suits can be considerably prolonged by strengthening the buttonholes, making two rows of machine stitching the length of the buttonhole opening, and so close that there is just room to cut between them. The ordinary buttonhole stitching should then be worked over the machine stitching, which provides a very strong edge. A RUSSIAN VIGNETTE IMPERIAL FURNITURE AND PROLETARIAN BOOTS The late Empress Alexandra of Russia had a magnificent boudoir suite in the Winter Palace in Petrograd. It was alleged to have been given her by Queen Victoria as a wedding present. The suite comprised a couchette, two armchairs and a few odd chairs. They were all upholstered in beautiful white leather, stamped with a curious design of long-stalked cornflowers. The design was unique. Long before the revolution the guide at the palace told me that each small chair had cost no less than £ 40. The suite had been put in a beautiful little room, the Empress’s private boudoir. The design was so unusual that once seen it could never be forgotten. Came the October revolution of 1917. The Winter Palace was ruthlessly besieged and finally captured aft.er a riotous spell of bambardment. The new powders gradually turned it into a Museum of Revolution and in time it was again opened for public inspection.

So I went there once more and was given the free run of all halls and rooms. I came to the late Empress’s private apartments, but looked in vain for the exquisite blue and white furniture. It had vanished. The room looked sadly empty, except for the heavy hangings of tarnished white silk. I wondered what had been the fate of Queen Victoria’s beautiful present. The chairs may have been flung out of the windows into the river. Or again they may have been burned for fuel, as so many other things actually were. Or perhaps they were simply stolen. . . . There was no one to answer. A little later I saw a woman walk down the erstwhile proud Nevsky Prospect. She did not seem to be one accustomed to exquisite garments, though a priceless sable stole hung round her shoulders and an aigrette in her rakishly tilted hat spelt ujitold wealth. And she wore most extraordinary boots. I drew nearer. My eyes rested on white leather, and, though it -was sadly bespattered with mud, still the blue cornflowers were there to complete the tale. They, too, looked dimmer, no doubt, cherishing some hidden remembrances of their earlier days. A lorry sped along and splashed fresh mud on the pathetic white boots. Their owner never noticed it. —E.M.A. To keep a white panama hat always fresh-looking, rub French chalk into it with an old tooth-brush as soon as it is the least bit soiled. Its life can be prolonged indefinitely in this way. White straw hats can be treated similarly. * * * To give apples a nice colour and flavour grate a little nutmeg over them i before cooking. I

MEMS. FOR WOMEN MOTORISTS STARTING FROM COLD It is probable that the self-starter has been one of the most potent factors in spreading an enthusiasm for driving a car among women. But the self-starter is capable of great abuse. To-day’s hint is of a preventive nature. The use of the self-starter makes enormous calls on the reservoir of electrical energy known as the accumulator; and a battery can be ruined if too great a demand is made upon it. The batteries of the normal, me-dium-priced and cheaper cars are usually of a lower voltage than they ought perhaps to be; and it is safer to start the engine from cold by use of the starting handle. This method is admittedly an unpleasant one for many women drivers, and not infrequently entails exceedingly hard work for a minute or two; but it is often possible to start the engine with only a crank or two if the following procedure is adopted. Turn on the petrol and flood the carburetter. Then give the engine a crank or two with the starting handle. Then close the air intake on the curburetter either with an air strangler, if one is provided, or by wrapping a piece of cloth round the intake. Then switch on the ignition and give the engine one or two sharp cranks with the handle, which should be enough to set the engine going. An excellent alternative way of obtaining a quick start on a cold morning without exhausting the battery is to empty the radiator a little and add enough hot water to warm the rest of the water in the radiator. A turn or two of the handle or even the use of the self-starter should suffice after that to set the engine in motion.

ORANGE TIME The early part of the year is a golden time in Italy and Spain. Spring comes, the orange groves yield their abundant fruit; and growers, buyers and sellers alike have their hands more than full. The picking of oranges is an art in itself. The rind is perilously soft; the slightest roughness of touch may damage it. Men wear chamois gloves and are careful not to dump their baskets too heavily. In Sicily, with its famous orangeries, near Messina, this picking is very systematic and highly organised. Each orange grove has its own sorting house, where men bring their baskets and where women’s quick sun-browned fingers sort the fruit out with amazing rapidity. Crates come from the avidly expectant foreign ships and the docks are permeated with the heavy fragrant odour. People see oranges, talk oranges, handle oranges all day long. Further north, round about Rome, in the ever-sunny Campagna, lesser orange groves stand clad in their flame chasubles. I remember one not far from the Rocca di Papa. It belonged to private people and they did no trade; but harvesting with them was just as important as with the busy orange-growers in Sicily. Early in the morning we would set out, each equipped with a short ladder, a quaint round basket, gloves, and, invariably, scissors. It is a sin to pluck off an orange; each must be carefully snipped off with special clippers. Otherwise both tree and fruit may be damaged. “Click-click-click,” “flop-flop-flop,” and the curiously wrought baskets are quickly filled. But though we’ve done a heavy morning’s work, it seems as though the flame chasubles in the grove stand practically untouched. And, far away in distant countries, the romance of oranges is ended —in the kitchen. —E.M.A.