FRILLS ADS & OIBLES

Sun (Auckland), Volume 1, Issue 17, 11 April 1927, Page 5

FRILLS ADS & OIBLES

Fleet Street, London. Special Feature supplied excluisvely to THE SUN, Auckland, by The Central Press ,

VOGUES VAGARIES (By MADAME JEANNE VARREZ.) Already it is obvious that the new colour schemes will offer more variety than last year. Exquisite contrasts are a feature of the designers’ happiest inspirations, notable among them being pink of a pale, almost salmon tint, in contrast with grey. Navy blue and grCv for outdoor suits and coats will be the height of chic. Grey, in fact, is evidently to oust the brown and beige range, just as blues will predominate over the bois-de-rose hues that seem now to be nearing the end of their long career. Deep yokes and piquant little frilled basques characterise some of the outstanding new models. Both for day and evening wear deep yokes will express the cachet of the ultrasmart. Colour contrast comes in here too, for in most cases the yoke is of some contrasting shade. Thus a filmy black toilette de soiree has a yoke of flesh pink topping its straight bodice, and coming well below the arms, finishing in a point in front. The pink motif is repeated in a pink edging to the top of a deep lace frill finishing the full skirt. * * * As for the frilled basque, it appears in its most charming guise on some of the smart daytime models, many of which are cut with an oval yoke of contrasting material (as is the basque). Sometimes the latter is pleated instead of frilled; but always it is essentially smart. Little turneddown collars finished with a bow of the Bohemian genre “go” with the yoke style, and the smart frock which expresses these three “points” is accompanied by a matching full-length coat in lightweight material en suite. Long sleeves are featured on all the most modish day dresses. Some are fairly tight, but the majority are either of moderate fullness caught into a narrow cuff, or full to the elbow and finished with a long cuff.

Among the more outre fashions, one finds a threatened revival of harem skirts in the evening dress collections. One model I saw—destined for a debutante —was fashioned of chiffon shading mystically from apricot to rose. As a matter of actual fact, the knee length skirt was not a harem skirt at all, but deliberately aimed at creating that impression, being turned and gathered on to the silk foundation in such a manner that the hem hung in baggy fullness. The frock also illustrates the new square neck decolletage to the plain bodice, with broad shoulder straps, recalling a fashion of several years agone that the designers are now intent on re-intro-ducing to our attention. But I doubt whether it will “catch on”—unless Mademoiselle 1927 resolves to be plumper and squarer-shouldered than her prototype of 1926. " * * * Sometimes the craze for contrasts expresses itself with skilful subtlety, so as to be almost imperceptible. In one such contrasting bodice and skirt a light blue crepe design had a skirt just the fraction of a shade deeper. Yet another design, heavily traced with gold allied a pink bodice to a coral skirti It is notable that however .complicated the material of a toilette de soiree, it is almost invariably broidered with paillettes, sequins, delicate crystal, or gold traceries. * * * Picture frocks show a sophisticated plainness, and the ingenue’s favourite choice is the uneven skirt allied to the tight plain bodice. A deep Vshaded decolletage both at back and front is the correct cut, while a posy of sumptuous magnificence adorns the shoulder. Sometimes the posy is replaced by a knot of velvet with multitudinous ends. A black taffetas model of outstanding picturesqueness, was finished at the shoulder with" tangerine velvet, with a repeat motif on the hip well to the back of the skirt.

This trimming-at-the-back notion inspires all sorts of toilette de soiree novelties in the matter df decolletage treatment. Evening dresses that are scooped down to the waist at the back, though cut comparatively high in front, have the oval space filled in with flesh chiffon. Bands of shaded beads make a very new back to some of the latest models. And finally the übiquitous pearl necklace is worn closely round the throat in front, caught in a diamond clasp at the back, and thence descending in a long loop almost to the waistline. America is again giving the lead in footwear fashions. One typical model is a pair of beige kid skin shoes, stamped in dull tones of green and red, with a high spike heel, and one strap. They match a large and extremely businesslike handbag with an ample double flap, stamped “en motif” with the shoes. Violet-coloured slippers bring the prophesied purple-stocking vogue into definite being. The slippers have black patent leather heels, with buckles to match. Some of the newest buckles by the way are of wrought iron, used as a trellis over brass, copper, and bronzed ornaments. Coloured metallic flowers and tendrilled vines are also seen en suite with heels of corresponding hue.

Amber is to the forefront again at all the big jewellers. Both the clear and cloudy varieties are obviously to enjoy an enormous vogue, and a vogue not confined to necklaces and bangles. Amber cigarette cases and amber umbrella tops are the “show” displays in the Oriental shoffs, and it is a feature of the new amber novelties that they are set with precious stones, notably emeralds and rubies—or imitations thereof. THE PERFECT WOMAN GRACE OF THE BARE-FOOTED TOILERS IN FACTORIES Young women employed on the heaviest industrial work in chemical factories are remarkable for their physique and grace of carriage, said Dr. Edward P. Cathcart, Gardiner professor of chemical physiology at Glasgow University, in a paper read at the Royal Institution, Piccadilly, last night. Professor Cathcart, who was asked by the Medical Research Council to undertake an inquiry into the physical condition of women workers, said the heaviest work noted was in the chemical works of Glasgow and the brickworks in the Midlands. “In the chemical works,” he said, “the girls all worked bare-footed, and carried out their various operations with great skill and ease.” The astonishing thing was that most of these perfect young women were born and bred in one of the worst districts in Glasgow.

PARTY FROCKS FOR LITTLE MAIDS BY PAULINE BOUCHIER This season, the child’s party frock, whether it be merely a wisp of an affair of 18 inches, or something more substantial for the big girl of 12, is well-shaped, elaborately trimmed, and made with much line hand-work. Many of the little dresses are similar to those worn by debutantes. For instance, the tinier gowns are all made without sleeves. They also follow the “period” style, and are frequently carried out in palely-coloured velvet. YOKES ARE BANISHED However tiny the frock, it is never made on a yoke. That is a fashion of the past. The little three-year-old girl may wear a silk frock hanging straight from her shoulders, with a series of pin-tucks, or clusters of quarter-inch frills running from neck to hem. But more often it is mounted on a bodice. One of the prettiest party frocks I have seen this season is made of pink taffetas which is worked at the hem with very tiny, slight scallops, and in every scallop is placed a round of cerise velvet, mounted on buckram. These rings encircle pink silk flowers. From the shoulders hang two long taffetas streamers which are knotted together at the waist, at the back of the frock. SEAMS AND PANELS Other taffetas frocks are made with breast seams, panels of georgette in the skirts, and narrow frills of coloured lace edging the panels, while into the bodice of the little “period” frock there is often inserted a vest made from numerous rows of fine cream lace. The Victorian posies, which are so ornamental, are often the principal trimmings on these dainty frocks. A few moss roses, a handful of forget-me-nots may be neatly and precisely arranged in a circle, with a frill of gold lace finishing it off at the edge, and with gold ribbons tying this posy. A favourite place for this posy is squarely in front at the peak of the little pointed bodice, with the ribbons hanging to the hem-line. FANCY COSTUMES For a fancy-dress party the joy of dressing is greater than ever. A lovely little brown or white rabbit is not difficult to make from teddy-bear cloth. This should be shaped all in one, to fasten on the shoulders, the head-piece with its floppy ears being fastened to the back. A costume representing a black velvet cat with white whiskers could be created in the same way.

A frock of coloured tarlatan may represent a flower, with the roses, daisies or violets dotted over the skirt, and on the little tarlatan cap. This is a dainty dress which need not cost very much. Little work is entailed in making a Dutch girl’s dress. The

full skirt of red or blue checked material, is worn under an apron of a tinier check, and this apron also covers the white short-sleeved apron. It must not be forgotten that a white patch or two are essential, as is a wired muslin cap, with turned-back points at either side.

THE CHARM OF BUTTONHOLES The curly variety of chrysanthemum has had its day. The new blossoms, which are also made of chiffon, are of the spiky order, without the suggestion of a wave. If anything, they are even larger than our first loves. Emerald green seems to be the favourite colour at the moment. * * * Tremendous bunches of Neapolitan violets are considered smart on trim walking suits. The latest shade in which they are shown is a golden brown. * * * China daisies in leather leaves are worn in the buttonholes of tailleurs. * * * As a change from these fantastic ideas, a novelty is a bunch of primroses, faithfully copying the real thing even to the hairy stalks and bright leaves. For variety one may adopt a similar posy of primulas. * * * Flat leather flowers and those of wool retain their popularity when it comes to a matching buttonhole for a severe sports suit. Afternoon frocks are trimmed with fanciful affairs contrived out of tissue and a matching chiffon.

MANY TRAGEDIES "Booking fee first, please.’* A halfcrown crosses the rubber mat, and another of the unemployed is free to peruse the list of eight-hour typists, energetic travellers and mother’s-helps, says an English writer. The registry office is a place of unparalleled importance compared to its insignificance of a few years ago. One never thought of a registry office as much more than a hunting ground for cooks and house parlour-maids in the old days. Now ex-public school men, fourteen-year-old secondary school girls, trained and untrained men and women push their half-crowns through the same pigeon-hole. It is common ground for every type of worker seeking a career. SECRETS REVEALED Possibly the man or the woman behind the desk meets a wider, stranger collection of human beings than anyone. There is something of oneself which must be given away when one approaches the desk of a registry office and asks for a job. There must be intimacy where a craving for this profession or that profession is revealed. A secret is bared, a confidence given, and a life’s ambition and half-a-crown entered in the same book. A woman who receives the confidences and the half-crowns told me: “Sometimes it is hard not to feel sad in a job like mine. You can’t find work for them all and they are all so pathetically confident that you can. There isn’t the work to be found however big a connection you have. You can’t help getting to know some of them so awfully well, too. They stop and tell you things and why they want this job or that. Then just as you are really interested in them the right job comes along and perhaps you never see them again. I have a man who comes in every day. He is an ex-officer who always wear the same shabby suit and spotless collars. He wants to be a mechanic, a waiter, a chauffeur, or a commercial traveller. I am beginning to feel quite excited now speculating which it will be. He is always cheerful. ‘Got anything to-ciay?” he asks. I shake my head. ‘All right, I’ll come in to-morrow.’ THE OTHER SIDE OF THE PICTURE “Then there is a girl with a clever little face and dark eyes. At first she simply went down in the book as wanting secretarial work, living in. I know now she is unhappy at home. Yesterday she told me she had sold a short story to a magazine and now she can paiy me her half-crown. She left it owing at first because she could not afford it. It is just the opposite with the domestic side of the business. I get women who come and simply implore me for a cook or a parlourmaid at any price, while wealthy-looking cooks hold out for super living wages and parlourmaids in fur coats will accept two afternoons off a week in which to wear them. Then it makes you laugh.”

THE PARENTAL ALLIANCE LET IT START RIGHT AWAY The other day I met a mother who was lamenting the adolescent development of her seventeen-year-old daughter. Being a conspicuously honest soul, she admitted that she had made a signal error in the nursery days, when she had made it plain that she desired no co-operation from her husband in the little girl’s upbringiner. “Girls belong essentially to their mothers,” had been her creed. And as her husband happened to be very rhuch in love he shrugged his shoulders resignedly and let Peggy’s mother have her own way. When he did occasionally venture a protest his reception was so discouraging that he decided to utter not another word; to look on at Peggy’s lack of concentration, fatal facility for boredom, and

general assumption that the universe was constructed mainly for her amusement; and make no sign that he saw what Peggy’s mother had in store. Had he been of a revengeful disposition he must have been gratified by the result. But he is still in love with Peggy’s mother, and his heart aches for her disillusionment. Even now he would step in and point the path to potential reform. But his wife’s pride stands in the way. She feels that, having embarked on a certain course, it is up to her to shoulder the responsibilities that now threaten to become too much for her. She goes round to her friends complaining of her daughter’s ingratitude—but persists in maintaining her attitude of resentment against any paternal interference. She knows that she has been foolish and short-sighted to an almost criminally irresponsible degree, and is too proud to admit it to the one person who could really help her. And more important still, -who could really help poor Peggy. That is the tragedy of these nurseryday alienations. The parental alliance must start early if it is to start at all. Childish characteristics, inherently deep-rooted, manifest themselves sometimes at an incredibly early age, and habit-forming begins long ere mothers and fathers realise the fact. That two heads are better than one never had a truer or more forceful application than to this tremendous lifework of parenthood. Mothers who accept that adage, and act on it while the little ones are still in their toddling stage, may have reason to bless that sane and rational policy on their bended knees when the difficult age of adolescence arrives! —P.K.

EASY TO LIVE WITH! A -well-known American magazine published the testimonies of ten husbands as to what trait helps most in making - a woman easy to live with. The ice-man thought it was knowing when to ask a man to do jobs around the house. In other words, tact. A grocery clerk thought being able to stretch the money from one Saturday to the next the most helpful thing; while to a bank manager, the ability to leave hemming the curtains to play when her husband gets time off, constituted perfection. A doctor suggested “health”; an advertising agent, “A wife who keeps you on your toes mentally.” “Courage” and “bad temper,” as opposed to the long-suffering, sweetly-patient, “I’m terribly-hurt-but-1-forgive-you” trait, both secured votes; but the most curious reason for a woman being “easy to live with” was the possession of “naturally curly hair”! says an English writer. What, after all, is the secret? Of the six English husbands I asked, two voted for “a sense of humour,” one for “a capacity for silence,” the fourth for “ a sense of proportion,” -while the fifth thought any woman who said, “I told you so,” and could not knit, "would be a treasure in thehome. The sixth and last, observed somewhat flippantly- that a woman with long hair, full of hairpins, would be an ideal life companion, because he never could lay his hand on a hairpin to clean his pipe nowadays.

All six were in favour of some vague, unspecified qualifications called “being a good pal,” but this seemed to cover anything, from liking to have ash on the cushions and carpets, to being the world’s best listener to how’ many he “got round in.” But, after all, surely w’hat makes a person “easy to live with” is simply the fact that you happen to love them?

PRECIOUS STONES LEGENDS AND TRADITIONS

SAPPHIRES From the curiously written parchment scrolls of our mediaeval ancients, we glean many odd things about jewellery; not so much about the bad or good luck a certain stone may bring to the wearer as about its potency to heal various diseases of the mind as well as of the body. Now sapphire, beloved and cherished by all women in all ages, is the fairest of gems. The old scribes frequently compared its dazzling beauty to that “of the cloudless sky.” It was believed to possess strong efficacy to cure fever and all diseases of the tongue. Slanderers and sayers of evil things in general were afraid ever to wear it, lest its brightness became tellingly dimmed “through the vileness of their utterances.” Constant wearing of sapphires increased fearlessness and filled one’s mind with “the thoughts of God’s kingdom.” It is also said that “Whosoever possesses this goodly gem in his house shall never know poverty,” and all things considered, this would not be far from the truth. PEARLS AND DIAMONDS Some stones were considered by the ancients as luckier than others, but, no gem was utterly ill-omened. Even pearls, later reputed to mean tears, were regarded as “drops of heavenly dew,” and diamonds, whilst not possessing many virtues, nevertheless, did mean protection against evil charms provided no money had been paid for them. They were to pass, as free gifts from the hands of one owner to another, and true love had to accompany all such giving. It was unlucky for a woman to present diamonds to any other member of her sex, which strikes one as a rather unkind twist of mediaeval thought. And in these days of continuous burglaries, people might do worse than

remember that the so much maligned opal used to be kept in our ancestors’ homes for no other purpose except that of shielding them against all burglars, “murderers and other malefactors.” AMETHYSTS AND EMERALDS There runs a story of a young explorer whose father objected to his leaving home, unless he took with him “an emerald and an amethyst of exceeding large size.” The young man was going to distant lands, where snakes and other reptiles were m abundance and having an emerald on him meant sure and unfailing nrotection. It was also beloved by public speakers, because when worn round the neck it added to one’s eloquence. Generals kn~w its worth, when goinr into battles, for wearing it meant, if not actual victory, then at least some hope of further as yet distant successes. Many a sailor's wife in those times would hang the gleaming green jewel round her husband’s neck: to shield his boat from all bad weather at sea. As to amethysts, their present value should increase in the countries favouring prohibition, since their wearer is insured not only against actual drunkenness, but even against all desire to drink.