VOGUES AND VAGARIES

Sun (Auckland), Volume 1, Issue 6, 29 March 1927, Page 5

VOGUES AND VAGARIES

(By MADAME JEANNE VARREZ.) Soft neutral colours are very much in evidence in the advance catalogues. One of the most recurrent hues is labelled “eucalyptus,” and does indeed reproduce with wonderful fidelity the delicate grey-green of eucalyptus foliage. There is also a new shade of beige—as yet unchristened—that has less pink in it and more grey than the erstwhile fashionable beige range. In fact, grey in every shade and graduation of shades will be the premier colour vogue for tailleurs. There are growing rumours, however, that ere this season is far advanced it will be closely rivalled by navy blue. Red hues will virtually disappear from the smart world, while for evening wear a pale saffron yellow will return to favour.

Some of the advance model evening gowns show great originality in the matter of trimming. Scintillation and sparkle are still the rule, but ingenuity is introducing all manner of novel notes in these glittering schemes. On one sumptuous black model are ar-

ranged flouncewise literally hundreds of minute “diamond” tassels. On to the hem of a primrose georgette frock diamante-edged flowers in every conceivable brilliant hue are sewn. Lame trimming in the form of countless tiny pleats allies itself to gleaming brocade. Long knots of ostrich feathers are being used in the same fashion as were flowers during the past season. That is to say, the uncurled plumes are fastened to the waist of a clance-dress at one side, and lef,t to float loosely down the skirt. The feathers are in a contrasting shade to that of the gown they adorn. * * * New sports skirts show an amusing novelty in the attached bib which takes the place of the jumper front under a coat or a cardigan. Sports coats feature a single pocket placed at the right side. The softest leather and the supplest felt still continue to fashion smart sports hats, and frequently a two-colour theme is employed. * * * 6 There is a tendency to cut basque or tunic models with an outward •urve, like the skirt of a Burmese dancer. Essentially new and smart, such innovations are so frankly novel that they do not make last year’s models look out of date. They are just permissible little satorial flourishes that can be adopted or ignored as desired. * * * If yours happens to be the tall and distinguished type, you will fall in love with the last word in evening cloaks. This is a voluminous, yoked affair, shimmering with embroidery and mock jewels, and evoking visions of Russian mediaeval bishops. Silver brocade embroicjered with seed pearls is one resplendent theme; another is shot brocade adorned with multi-col-oured stones. Perhaps one of the most effective models in this genre is a cream velvet cloak with the long yoke thickly encrusted with emerald heads A new shudder-drapery touch is a big silk handkerchief, such as genuine coster types wore round their necks in the picturesque days of long ago. The neckerchief is draped about the right shoulder and knotted through ihe shoulder-strap, the ends being arranged as “ears.” This novel decorative style is not limited to shoulder drapery. It appears also in the guise of a quaint little cape, suspended from the shoulders at the back. A striking example is provided in the multicoloured kerchief that adorns an elusive blue esvening gown. It is fixed “four square” across the back of the bodice, and the two corners are held on the shoulders with bright golden tassels. * * * I came upon a queer little discovery in the lingerie department. A real honest-to-goodness camisole, “ancient style,” complete with normal waistline. Its significance must be duly noted, with those increasingly persistent rumours of waisted models flying about. With the "cami" are worn the knee breeches that have supplanted cami-knickers and petticoat. The last-word shingle is not permitted even the faintest suspicion of a wave. The hair is cut to the line of the head, and straight “whiskers” lie on each cheek, dragged forward to reveal the entire contour of the ear. Though it sounds rather like our old acquaintance, the Eton crop, the difference is that in the new shingle the ends of the hair are encouraged to turn up slightly. Advocates of the mode assure us that less time, and money, are spent at the hairdressers’.