WORK IN THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 24239, 24 September 1940, Page 10

WORK IN THE GARDEN

DAFFODILS By RIWHI The queen of spring flowers —the daffodil—is at present at the height of its blooming and enthusiasts throughout the province are making preparations for the main daffodil show in the province to be held in Invercargill on Thursday and Friday of this week. In view of the wide interest taken in this flower and the number of country shows held throughout the province some information and suggestions concerning show blooms should be helpful. In the first place the correct name to use is daffodil and not narcissus. The national society is known as the National Daffodil Society of New Zealand, and it is in turn affiliated to the Royal Horticultural Society in Britain The name narcissus is used botanically to indicate more especially the short cupped varieties, while the true daffodil is the trumpet type which is a native of England and northern Europe. Other types among the daffodils we grow commonly, originate in northern Africa, Asia, China and Japan. From a species growing over such an extensive area we naturally obtain a most interesting series of types. These have been hybridized by growers in their search for still ‘ more beautiful forms and in order to clear up consequent confusion it has been found necessary to adopt a standard classification of all types. An outline of this classification is given below; it uses both botanical and descriptive distinctions, and is quite simple to follow so long as the term perianth is understood. The perianth consists of the six outer petals three of which are really sepals. CLASSIFICATION OF DAFFODILS DIVISION I.—Trumpet Daffodils. The trumpet or crown is as long as or longer than the perianth segments. (a) Trumpet and perianth yellow or lemon coloured. (b) Trumpet and perianth white or creamy white. (c) Bi-colours—trumpet yellow or lemon and perianth white. DIVISION 2. —Incomparabilis. Cup or crown not less than one-third, but not as long as the perianth segments.

(a) Yellow shades with or without red colouring on the cup. (b) Bi-colours with yellow or redcup and perianth white or whitish.

DIVISION 3.—Barrii. Cup or crown less than one-third the length of the perianth segments. (a) Yellow shades with or without red colouring on the cup. (b) Bi-colours with yellow or reddish cup and perianth white or whitish.

DIVISION 4—Leedsii. Perianth white and cup or crown white, cream, or pale lemon sometimes tinged with pink. (a) Cup or crown not less than onethird but not as long as the perianth segments. (b) Cup or crown less than one-third the length of the perianth segments. DIVISION s.—Triandrus Hybrids. DIVISION 6. —Cyclamineus Hybrids. DIVISION 7.—Jonquill Hybrids. DIVISION B.—Tazetta (Garden forms and Hybrids). I DIVISION 9.—Poeticus varieties.. DIVISION 10.—Double varieties. DIVISION 11.—Various. As the great majority of daffodils grown' and displayed at shows belong to the first four classes it is not necessary to go into further details from Division 5 onwards. However, anyone who grows daffodils will realize just how very useful such a classification can be, and all exhibitors should know to what divisions their blooms belong before placing them on the bench. HINTS TO EXHIBITORS All blooms should be absolutely fresh and not at such a stage that a warm hall will cause them to collapse prematurely. Quality, texture and colour are much more important than size. Where cups are red or rimmed with red the intensity of colour should be a feature of each bloom. Pickle bottles should not be used and the stems should stand well above the vases or dishes used. Where three blooms are displayed in one vase the centre bloom should be set a little above the ones on either side. Sphagnum moss should be used to keep the blooms firmly in position facing the front of the bench.

Where a collection is asked for credit is given for the number of divisions represented, and other things being equal the general arrangement of the exhibit is taken into account. No other foliage than that of the daffodils themselves should be used. DAFFODILS IN THE GARDEN Daffodils when grown for exhibition or for indoor decorative purposes should be kept out of the flower garden proper so as to give them the best of cultivation and full opportunity for ripening off thoroughly. in the early summer. In the garden itself they are best grouped in the herbaceous border or planted through the shrubbery. Where space is available they should be naturalized in grass or lawn around decisuous trees or shrubs, such a setting is most effective where they can be massed in drifts of separate varieties. The foliage should in no case be disturbed or cut down until it has ripened off for it is only when blooming is over that the plant sets to work to accumulate stores of food for next spring’s flowering. When the bulb reaches its brief dormant stage next season’s flowering bud has already been formed. Nothing can be done from that time on to induce a non-flowering bulb to bloom for that season.

After the foliage has ripened there is only a short period before root activity commences again. It is during this short period that lifting and trans-planting should be done. All daffodil bulbs should be replanted by the end of February at the latest. The time for ordering new varieties is now. Favourites may be selected at shows where they are generally named and the order so made handed in to a seedsman or sent direct to growers. Bulbs ordered in this way will be planted in time; delivery is generally given’ in January and the purchaser gets the benefit of the best bulbs before stocks of these are depleted. 1000 DAFFODIL VARIETIES At a recent Royal Horticultural Society daffodil show' the number of varieties displayed was well in the region of 1000. The variation in size and form thus shown in the daffodil family was amazing. All but one of the daffodils were yellow, cream or white. The exception was a new pink kind which attracted a great deal of attention. A pink daffodil has its own charm, but to most people the real daffodil of spring is the bright yellow “daffie” which glistens in the sun and nods in the breeze.