FROM AUCKLAND TO HONOLULU.

Southland Times, Issue 1260, 3 June 1870, Page 3

FROM AUCKLAND TO HONOLULU.

A special correspondent of the Southern Cross gives the . following account of the voyage fro n Auckland to Honolulu by the "Wonga Wonga, and of what he saw at the latter place: — Two days after leaving Auckland the only ship seen on the passage was passed at a moderate distance. Wind and weather proved very capricious and disappointing, the most noteworthy phenomenon concerning which was the entire failure of the S.E. trades, which were fof the occasion diverted to the N. 8., to the dismay of such as desired a speedy issue. Such was the prevailing wind during the voyage, with an occasional change to a head wind, in which case the after-deck was visited with the plague of insects. Heavy and frequent rains, boisterous gusty winds, and a turbulent sea were familiar features of the transit. The "Wonga Wonga was thus thrown much on her internal resources, and derived little help from the airy forces. During the early part of the voyage the good ship sped on her way steadily and pleasantly, but under the daily consumption of some twenty-eight tons of coal, by the hungry maw of the furnace, and the disappearance of no light amount of comestibles, in some two hundred other maws, she became less agreeable, and indulged in discoursing discordant notes on musical glasses and crackling crockery. The sailing distance from Auckland to Honolulu appears, by reckoning, to be about four thousand miles, which was performed in seventeen days (nine or ten hours were lost by stoppage of the engines for overhaul of machinery), which gives . an average approaching to ten knots per hour — the daily run varying from 210 to 260 miles. Nothing was wanting in skill or energy in the conduct of the vessel on the part of Captain Beal. The only land sighted was Fanning Island, which appeared just at the time and in the spot where it was looked for, and the harbor of Honolulu was made with great precision ; the officers and crew were ap- . parently efficient and steady, and in the nautical department all was satisfactory. It is to be regretted that another department of the service has not been conducted with equal credit. Safety and expedition are primary considerations, but comfort and convenience are items not be neglected with impunity. Against whom the charge lies, deponent sayeth not, but that the quasi-domestic arrangements were unsatisfactory is not to be denied. The ship vraa amply provided with stores, generally of unquestionable character, but the culinary results were discreditable and the service comtemptible. No amount of variety of viands will compensate for the lack of cleanliness, order, * civility, and promptitude. Great consideration is due to the enterprising projector of this new route on its trial trip, the very success of which may in part at least account for a portion of the inconvenience endured, the number of passengers being much in excess of the accommodation required for a protracted . voyage. Another source of trouble may have been divided allegiance. Contractors and directors do not always strengthen the hands of commanders ; double government, whether in a limited, circle or in a wider sphere, will surely issue in complication and inefficiency. If the Californian route is to be a success, and the service accomplished within the stipulated time, well-appointed vessels of greater capacity and higher power must be placed on the line. Escape from the unquiet element of the sea to this charming place is a joyous transition not to be soon forgotten. Two entire days of relaxation and recreation among scenes of beauty and tropical luxuriance forms a delightful break in a weary voyage. Honolulu is a pretty town of some six or eight thousand inhabitants of a very mixed character. The imported * element consists of Anglo-Saxons of American and English type, with a good sprinkling of Chinese and Japanese. The native population is numerous, and is an exact counterpart of the New Zealander, presenting a like diversity of type in color and feature, but far in advance in the arts of civilisation. Like the Maori they possess a good many horses which they handle with dexterity, and on occasion of an influx of strangers turn to good account. The women, in their loose flowing garments, claim the primitive right of preserving their equilibrium by suspending their lower extremities on each side of their steeds, and with flowing head-dresses and gay toggery form a conspicuous feature in the busy population. The town is well laid out, with good streets well supplied with provisions and merchandise. Hotels proper are not to be found, although several establishments assume that title. Accommodation for feeding and sleeping, however, is to be had at not extravagant charges. A copious supply of pure water is a luxury which the inhabitants enjoy, supplied by artificial means. There is here an air of advanced civilisation, a degree of taste, .and an amount of commercial activity, far beyond what might have been expected in this remote region. Judging from the number of buildings devoted to educational purposes, these might be an object of envy to citizens of Auckland. The suburbs are well occupied by villa residences, tastefully built in carefullykept gardens, illuminated with gay flowers, and enriched with tropical fruits. The scenery is bold and romantic. The only portion that the writer can speak of from personal observation is a narrow valley, confined by lofty, precipitous hills on both 'sides, variously covered with scrub and moderate grass, with numerous spurs ,. r approaching the road, diversified with here and there frowning bluffs of dark, : volcanic Tock, fancifully intersected with vertical and longitudinal veins of white, "ashy material. The summit of this road is called" Pali," or, popularly, "Death's leap," from a passage in the history of

these islands which records a tragical event in their conquest by the ancestor of the present reigning monarch, who forced his enemies over this frightful precipice into the yawning abyss, to inevitable death. At this spot a view of surpassing grandeur suddenly opens on the traveller. Immediately before him lies a rich valley stretching away to the open seas ; at his feet is a perpendicular precipice of great depth; around and about him rise craggy cliffs, throwing up rocky pinnacles of picturesque beauty and glory. The road then trends away to and traverses the valley away seaward. Time forbids us to pursue it. A New Zealand botanist or entomologist would find himself in a new world here, and surrounded with objects of interest entirely differing^ from his ordinary surroundings. Wayside flowers are numerous, and of rich variety ; shrubs and trees, both cultivated and wild, ornamental and useful, fruit-bearing and flower- producing, all strange and exotic to inhabitants of the temperate zones. It is matter of great surprise to find so little common to this island and the Britain of the South. Domestic animals only connect them. Cattle, sheep, horses, mules, dogs, cats, and rats— of the quadruped tribes; of feathered bipeds— turkeys, poultry, ducks, pea fowl, and pigeons, claim to be of cosmopolitan distribution.