THE GOVERNOR'S JOURNEY FROM AUCKLAND TO WELLINGTON.

Southland Times, Issue 994, 29 July 1868, Page 2

THE GOVERNOR'S JOURNEY FROM AUCKLAND TO WELLINGTON.

The following despatch addressed by his Excellency Sir G-eorge Bowen to his Grace the Duke of Buckingham will be read with interest. I^^dated July 1; : — My IiOKD DtJKE^^fl^J have the honor to report that I left "Aiickland on the sth and reached "Wellington on the 21st ultimo, after a very interesting voyage, during which I visited the principal ports, English settlements, and Native tribes, on the East Coast of the North Island of New Zealand, spending also several days at Napier, the capital of the province of Hawke's Bay. Nothing could exceed the cordiality of my reception alike by the Europeans and by the Maoris on this as on my other official tours. Addresses full of expressions of 'loyalty to the Queen, and of welcome to myself were everywhere presented by both races. 2. The harbour of Tauranga is the best between Auckland and Wellington ; and the township on its shores is now ,tbe centre of one of the military settlements. It will be recollected that the regular troops and Naval Brigade suffered very; severe loss at the assault, in 1864, of the pah erected by the Ngaiterangi tribe three miles from Tauranga, arid generally known as the G-ate pah, from its commanding the entrance to the inland districts, at a point where the road passes along a narrow tract of. firm ground two extensive swamps.. The Ngaiterangis were afterwards completely defeated at TeEanga, four miles further' in the interior ; and.they heve since for the most part returned to their villages, and are living peaceably. Euoka.te Whanake*and the other principal chiefs who fought against the Crown during. the ; war, had assembled to welcome me on my landing at Tauranga; and the English settlers, with excellent taste . and good feeling, invited them to the public dinner which they gave in my honour; Capt Palmer, E.N., and the officers of H.M.S. Eosario were also ■ present. Alter the customary loyal and patriotic toasts, and the health of the Governor had been disposed of, the chairman (one of the leading military settlers), gave : 'Our guests, the Maori chiefs — lately our brave enemies in war, and- now our friendly neighbors in peace." All the I Europeans stood ,up and applauded heartily ; and when the cheering had subsided, the five Maoris rose in. succession, and returned thanks in the English fashion, with, the natural fluency, humor, and eloquence of their race. A more cordial feeling could not have been exhibited by English and Russian officers meeting at the close of the Crimean war, than was exhibited at Tauranga by the Military Settlers and the Maoris, who four years ago had been arrayed in arms against each other. The many . high qualities of the Maoris prevent Englishmen from regarding these •-* foemen worthy of their steel,' with that mingled contempt and dislike with which our countrymen unfortunately too often regard the dark-skinned races in ; other parts of the British empire. 3. From Tauranga I , proceeded to Maketu, where I was received by a large assemblage of the Arawas, who fought gallantly for the Crown throughput the war, and who are. now much harrassed in consequence by the Hau haus and: 'by the wild tribes of the ITriweras,L which hold the neighboring mountains. After witnessing the customary war dance (which was admirably performed at Maketu,) and listening to addresses from the principal Arawa chiefs, I replied in a speech of which the substance will be foand in the annexed report. I explained that, owing to the near approach of the session of the Colonial Parliament at Wellington, I was unable at that time to visit the hot lakes and springs (resembling the Q-eysers of Iceland) in the country of the Arawas, but that I hoped to return next .summer, and then to travel thither over the road which they had made by their own labor, in expectation of the proposed visit of the ■ Duke of Edinburgh. I added that 1 had acquainted the Imperial G-overnment and his Eoyal Highness with this proof of the devotion of their tribe, and that I was confident that it would be graciously "acknowledged. Like the JTgapuhis and other loyal, tribes, the Arawas expressed, through their . leading warriors, unbounded indignation at the attempt to assassinate the ' Queen's son,' and entreated 'to be led against the Eeniaris.' 4. After this Maori korero (a ceremony somewhat corresponding to the durbars of British India) I' visited the pah or fortified village of Maketu, and the whares or dwellings of the principal chiefs. I then inspected the school for their children which has been established by the Arawas^ assisted by the Colonial G-overnment, under the provisions of the 'Act to regulate and 'provide' subsidies for Maori schools.', Though this school had been open for only seven months, and the teaching is entirely in English— the master being a former corporal of the 12th Eegiment— -I found the Maori children quite as proficient in reading, writing, arithmetic, and -on the- other branches of primary education, as English children of the. same age, , and under similar circumstances would be. It was very gratifying, to observe the intellige nt interest evidently taken in the examination by the managing committee of fourteen Maoris, who were all present. No efforts will be wanting on the part of the Colonial G-overnment to extend an efficient system of schools throughout the native districts. ! 5. After leaving Maketu; I visited Opotiki, also in the Bay of Plenty, as it was named by. Captain Cook. Opotiki i was the scene of the cruel murder, in 1865, of the Eev. C, S. Volkner (the resident Church of England missionary), by the fanatic Hau-haus, under the prophet Kereopa, who devoured" a portion of the body of his victim. To punish this and other similar atrocities (including the murder of MrPulloon. and his crew), an expedi- :- tion of Colonial .militia., and. friendly

natives was organised. This force was completely successful, routing the Hauhaus on every point, and seizing many of the ringleaders in the above mentioned barbarous outrages. These prisoners were afterwards tried before the Supreme Court of New Zealand, and five of those condemned to death were executed ; while the sentences of the remaiuder were commuted to various terras of penal servitude. A portion of their land was confiscated ; and the township of Opotiki, with the fertile plain surrounding it, was allotted to military settlers. Owing to the frequent incursions of the Hau-haus and TJriweras, it is still found necessary to maintain about eighty of these settlers on permanent pay, and to station them in two block-houses, commanding the entrance of the passes leading from the mountains into the plain. Attended by a small escort of Volunteer Cavalry, 1 ■rode over the confiscated land, which, when law and order shall have been fully established, will probably support a flourishing settlement. I also held a korero with the small neighboring tribes of the Ngaitai and Ngatiwhakatohea. 6. On my voyage from Opotiki round the East Cape I landed on the curious volcanic cone, which rises in the centre of the Plenty. In the middle of the huge crater there is a lake of hot sulphureous water, and clouds of steam (whence the name of White Island) are constantly sent up from a number of boiling springs. There is ho animal life whatsover, and scarcely any vegetable life, on this lone and gloomy islet. 7. I next visited Turanganui, named Poverty Bay by Cpatain Cook, apparently because the hostility of the natives prevented him from procuring supplies there. But a fertile plain extends behind the township, situated near the mouth of the river which here falls into the sea, and several enterprising settlers occupy farms upon it. The local volunteer troop of cavalry quickly assembled, and escorted me ten miles inland to the ruins of the mission station, so long presided over by the Bishop of Waiapu (Dr "William Williams) but from which that prelate and his femily were driven by the Hau-haus during the recent war. These fanatics were afterwards defeated and dispersed by a party of the colonial forces, but they succeeded in destroying the mission buildings, and in laying waste the once flourishing gardens and orchards. The Bishop of Waiapu now resides at Napier. The few Maoris living near Turanganui assembled to welcome me. They belong chiefly to a hapu or section of the Ngatippru tribe. Mynext stage was Napier, the capital of Hawke's Bay^ where I received a hearty welcome from all classes of the community. I enclose copies of the address of the Provincial Council and of my reply which will serve as specimens of the numerous addresses recently presented to me and of my acknowledgements of them. During my residence at Napier, I was the guest of the Superintendent, Mr Donald McLean, and was entertained at a public dinner. I annex reports of my speeches atthe korerosheld with theNgatikahungunu tribe, the owners of a large territory in the south-eastern part of the North Island. As was mentioned in a former Despatch, a sum of £26,000 is annually paid as rent by the pastoral' settlers to about 200 families of this tribe, Tareha, Karaitiania, and the other principal chiefs are thus enabled to live in comfortable houses built in the English fashion, and to drive in English carriages about their well cultivated farms. They have erected a Maori Club at Napier as their place of meeting when they visit that town. Instead of the national dances with which I was greeted elsewhere, I was received by the Ngatikahungunus with guards of honor, comprised of the native militia, all well armed and well drilled in the English fashion, and commanded by chiefs wearing the uniform of English staff oflicers. It will be remembered that when the Hau-haus advanced in 1866 to the attack and plunder of Napier, they were routed in a sharp and decisive action by the colonial forces combined with these loyal native allies. 9. It had been my intention to ride overland from Napier to Wellington, a journey of five or six days, with the object of visiting seviral of the principal pastoral stations in the intervening country; but the flooded state of the rivers rendered it impossible to carry out this intention at present, and I was obliged to proceed by sea. 10. It will be seen that during the first five months of my administration I have yisited all the principal European settlements and native tribes in the North Island, with the exception of those at Taranaki and Wanganui, both of which places I hope to visit in the early part of next year. I shall, of course, remain at the seat of the G-eneral Government at "Wellington during the annual session, which I shall open on the 9th iostant. At the close of the session I intend to proceed on an official tour to Nelson, Marlborough, Canterbury, Westland, Otago, and Southland, the principal districts of the South or Middle Island of New Zealand. I thus expect to make myself personally acquainted during the first twelve months of my administration with all the chief centres of population in this colony.