WRECK OF THE GENERAL GRANT.
CETJISE OP THE BBIG- AMHERST. RETURN FROM AUCKLAND ISLANDS. NO TRACE OF THE MATE OR CREW INTEEESTING- NARRATIVE. OFFICIAL EEPOET. To His Hoxoe thb Sttpeintexdent. Sib, — I have the honor to submit for your information the following report on the result of a Toyage made in the brig " Ainherst," for the purpose forming depots and necessaries for castaways on the Auckland and Campbell Islands, and of searching on these, the Antipodes, and Bounty Island for survivors from wrecks. We left the Bluff Harbor on the morning of Saturday, 25th January, with the wind from the W.N.W., there being just euough of it to take us well clear, when it left us at the disposal of the tide. In the Straits we had very light north easterly airs, but by " snubbing " with a boat's anchor and 90 fathoms small line, we held our own against flood, and then worked down with ebb tide. Whilst brought up abreast of Smoky Cave (Stewart's Island) a boat's crew was sent ashore for the purpose of catching some woodhens, the birds were very shy, but the officer bearing the appropriate name of Anglem, deftly snared two fine ones of opposite sexes ; they wiil I trust rapidly increase their numbers on the Aucklands, where we turned them ashore. A fine breeze sprang up on the 27th from the N.W. and a course was shaped for the " Snares ;" believing it to be quite possible that those for whom we searched might have reached those Islands, and by some accident ' losing their boat, had been unable to proceed further. At noon, on the 28th when as yet the brig was eight miles distant from the " Snares," the wind headed us, so a boat was lowered into which I stepped, and we pulled away for the N.B. side of the Island, where is a smal. gulch or cove, the only boat harbor on it, I believe. Thousands of mutton-birds, nellies, penguins, &c, heralded our approach, and to some extent prepared us for what we saw on landing. Once on shore our party was divided, and we commenced our search. I and two others made for the west side, where we climed a high bluff, some 500 feet high, commanding a good view of the whole island. Our progress was painfully slow, the entire surface being literally iiout-y---combed with mutton-bird holes, into which the foot sank deeply at every step, the inmates thereof betokening their dissatisfaction at our presence by giving vent to a half-choked querulous cry. The penguins (ludicrous birds) in hundreds, drawn up in rank and file, stood to oppose us on our march, and it required not a little vigorous kicking to force our way through them. We fired the grass on the open, and made a considerable smoke, but during our stay of four hours we had no evidence whatever to show that anyone was or had been living on the island, and feeling satisfied that had there been any castaways present we must have seen them, or traces of them, we returned to our boat. The other party joined us with a like report. Before leaving we erected on the rocks at the point a large pole 15 feet long, on which are secured two bottles ; one containing a letter notifying our . visit, and for what purpose. The other filled -with matches (well wrapped up in flannel), fish-hooks, a knife, and some dressed flax. Taking a last look round, we recognised the immediate necessity for our departure, the mutton-birds darkening the sky in their flight, banging down on the ground in thousands in a most absurd and reckless manner, infiiuiinij sevpre buffets on the heads of several oi uo. Wo. rejoined the brig and hoisting the boat up, stood away to the S.W. The Snares are lat. 48deg. 03min.: S., long. 166deg. 45min. E., and under this name comprise two islands, a large reef to the N.W. of the Main, three and a-hali miles distant, and Beveral outlying rocks. The small island (half-a-mile long), ie separated from the main on its' east side by a very uaiTow passage. The larger island 1 take 'to-* be • about -four -miles in circumferance. Greatest elevation, 600 feet. Coast line very bold. It is almost entirely covered with Bcrub
and trees of stunted growth. Tho Tupari, Akeate. and Kokomuka. Of M'Quarrie cabbage, there is abundance, and of fine growth, some of the j leaves measuring two feet in diameter. Patches clear of scrub are clothed with the lutaki tussock. The soil is peaty and well mingled with guano, and very moist. What rocks I saw were of the felspathic group. We found no water at all palatable, some I drank being quits brackish, but then the birds would render the best undrinkable. Those who trade in mutton-birds, would find a visit to these islands in March or April, prove remunerative. On the 30th, a change of wind enabled us to make our course for the Aucklands, which islands we sighted at 2 p.m. the next day, right a-head, not having experienced any easterly current. Stretching at Port Boss, we dropped anchor at 6.30 p.m., abreast of the Victoria's signal tree,- an old gnarled iron-wood trunk. I benefitted by the experience of others, or else my attention would not have been drawn to it, surrounded as it is on all sides by dead stumps. The day following (Saturday), we formed the first dep6t on Enderby's Island in the hut nearest the beach (occupied by Teer aud four others.) This hut is in capital repair, and only required a little extra fastening to the thatch, which was j j given to it. Ihe case No. 1, containing clotliing, j blankets, compass, matches, tools, &c, was placed in a good position, and on it I wrote — | j " The curse of the widow and fatherless light; upon the man who breaks open this box, whilst he has a ship at his. back." A spade was left with the case. A bottle suspended over it contains a letter of which I give a copy, it being similar in its contents to those left at the otherdepots. Enderby Island, Feb. Ist, 1868. " Brig Amherst (Captain Gilroy) chartered by the Government of Southland for the purpose of forming depots of necessaries for castaways on the Auckland and Campbell Islands, and of searching on these, the Antipodes, and Bounty Islands for survivors from wrecks. There has been left here to day, by order of the Government of Southland, a case (hermetically sealed) containing absolute necessaries for the use of castaways. I need not add exclusively for their use, for surely no one with a ship at his back will have so little respect for his manhood as to take aught of what is contained in this box. Three similar dep6ts will be made in other parts of the island. One at Port Boss, one at the head of Saddle Hill Inlet (third bay south from this), and another in Carnley Harbor (the Straits.) Those who may come after, I will ask, in the name of suffering humanity, to see that the cases are preserved irom injury, and that the landmarks remain firm in their places. Should the lettering on the boards be indistinct, pray renew • with paint. Two woodhens (wingless species) of opposite sexes have been turned into the scrub. These birds should not be molested for a few years until their number is considerably increased. Visitors to these Islands are therefore earnestly requested to extend their protection to them. For the benefit of castaways, be it. known that the mutton-bird burrows in the ground, (like a sand martin), and both young and old can be easily secured by introducing the hand into the hole. They are excellent eating. The albatross and other sea-birds lay their eggs on the high land. The course from a point half a mile to the north of Enderby's liland to South Cape, Stewarts' Island, is north i west, 198 miles. When you have read this please return rolled up into the bottle and cork securely. (Signed) Heney Abmstbon&, On behalf of the Government of Southland. Along the front of the hut, under the eaves (giving it the appearance of an accommodation j house) is nailed firmly a board, 16ft long, painted white, on which is carved in deeply cut letters, lour inches long, "Dep6t of necessaries for castaways. Landed, from the brig Amherst, Feb. 1; 1868. By order of the Government of Southland." The other hut hard by is also in good repair. The occupants of these cabins must have used incredible labour and perseverance in order to accumniulate on Enderby's Island from from all parts (even from the Straits) the materials for building purposes, for the manufacture of tools, and for culinary utensils. This island is about three miles long and one and a-half wide. The N.W. side is precipitous ; the tops of the cliffs covered with mosses and lichens but very bare of pasture. Down the middle of the island runs a belt of scrub, rata (iron-wood), enaki (black oak), and a tree of which I only know the native name, Ahmokoroa. The S.E. side is well clothed with nettles, M'Quarrie cabbage, Maori cabbage, patches of white clover, and Yorkshire fog grass (of fine growth), and the common English daisy and buttercup. In the sand-hills here the rabbits borrow and look very much at home. The potatoes planted by the General Grant's people are of very fair size, and had they been kept clear of weeds, would, I have no doubt, have thrown a very good crop. The goats on this island are thriving, and Jhave increased their number. On Monday, 3rd February, having determined to form the depot in the straits whilst the weather remained fine, we decided to take the boats along the west coast, being anxious to see the cave which swallowed up the ill-fated General Grant, moreover I desired to ascertain whether any portion of the wreck was yet visible. We started at daybreak with the two whale boats, five oars in each ; an officer in charge of one, Captain Gilroy and myself in the other, and upon rounding the N.W. Cape were met by both more wind and sea, than we had expected, the wind from the S.E sweeping down the gullies with fearful violence, lashing the water into spray, and at times a'most turning the boats round. We pulled along at the foot of the cliffs down to the entrance of the straits, never further from the rocks than three hundred yards and occasionally, when doubling a point, only fifty or sixty, scanning carefully every gully and every cave, but we saw nothing even approximating to the description given by the General Grant's people of the cavern into which their ship drew. At a point on the coast from which Disappointment Island bore JN.W., we observed lying on a shelf of rocks and on a beach at the foot of the cliffs, some spars and fragment of of wreck. Near these places a little to the- south i 3 a gulch, formed by two great masses of rock jutting out into the sea, (like buttresses) between which we believed the ship to have jammed herself in. Whether our imaginations helped us or iiofc I can't say, but we fancied the rocks above appeared marked by the vessels masts ; some fractures looking fresh. Moreover the water shoaled here. It would be, however, almost impossible for any Bave those who escaped from the ship, to point to the exact place where she drove in, their being so many of these gulches and all so much alike in appearance. I made as faithful a sketch aB I possibly could of this portion of the coast ; the motion of the boat, and the bunding spray, rendering it rather a difficult task. No wreck was seen further than what I have already mentioned, and prudence forbade our lingering to make a closer search, the hour being late, and the weather looking ( dirty.' We noticed several places where a landing could be effected in tolerably fine weather ; one spot, indeed, where even a boat might be hauled up (by practised hands) What can I say of this coast but that I have seen nothing to surpass, or even equal, the grandeur, the savage majesty of its grim storm-beaten sea walls ; standing :up bold and defiant, sullenly challenging old Ocean to a trial of strength. There are portions of it where the cliffs rise perpendicularly to a height of nearly j 500 feet, their sides presenting a. perfectly plane surface, at their feet a small shelf of rocks, or a . long, low cavern ; the sea breaking over the one, and driving into the other with a noise as of distant thunder. Entering the Straits, the toiling crew pulled through the narrow passage at Monumental Island, through which the tide sweeps with great speed, and entering Sea Devil Cove, we camped for the Tiight, having been fourteen hours in the boat, the men woefully disappointed at not having discovered a cave large enough to take in a fifty gun frigate with royalmasts standing. On bur way next morning to Carnley Harbor we found the cutter Fanny at anchor in Camp Cove, and going on board, through the courtesy of Captain Ackers, I was enabled to take
a tracing of Perseverance ITarbor (Campbell Tsland) from a chart in his possession. A few miles further and we land opposite Musgravo's hut, in Oarnley Hurbor ; in front, of which, not twenty yards from the beach, lies th<» wreck of the schooner Grafton, with her bulwarks cut away and three or four holes in her bottom ; her hull otherwise, in wonderfully good condition. Finding the roof of the hat fallen in, we set about securing it, which was promptly and effectually done, by shoreing up from both sides with planks taken out of the Grafton : fresh thatch laid on | the top made all snug. We next took the spar, twenty-four feet long, which Capt. Musgrave had fasliioned into a keel, charred its heel, and nailing firmly two boards (each eight feet long, lettered as at Enderby) on its top, at right angles, like the arms of a semaphore, we planted it six feet in the ground and shored well up. It stands in front of the hut, facing the harbor. Case No. 2we placed in the hut ; with it a spade and a small box of books. As this hut is likely to be used occasionally by sealers I painted on the door — " Be careful with fire." I left, a letter in a bottle fixed to the mast by a band of copper. The following morning we took the Grafton's bowsprit in tow, and pulled down to the Peninsular. Here, close I to Musgrave's old signal, we erected our spar, j which stands twenty feet above ground, and is firmly secured ; two white boards fixed to its top, i I one with a hand carved on it, the index finger ex- i tended, pointing up Carnley Harbor, and the words " Depot, &c, iv the hut, six miles distant ;" the other board facing the entrance of the Straits. I left here, also, a letter. In each instance where a depot; has been made, and a signal mast erected, I have taken a sketch of its position and surroundings, which, coupled with the description I give, will enable your Honor to form a very correct idea of what has been effected. The wind being too strong to admit of our starting for the north, we returned to'the hut, and, having nothing better to do, prospected the creek, but were unable to bottom. In washing out several pans we found, rather course black sand. We arrived at Port; Boss on the afternoon of the following day, having; returned by the East Coast, which is deeply in-; dented with bays and inlets, in all of which vessels may find anchorage and shelter from the prevailing westerly winds. I took bearings of all the headlands, and ascertained the position of the reefs and shoals off Dundas Island ; also of a large bed of kelp, extending for a mile to the south of this island, which vessels should avoid. On ' Friday, 7th Feb., was erected the Port Boss signal mast, a fine spar, perfectly sound, forty-five feet long, one foot in diameter, which we found on a beach, having apparently formed a portion of the old jetty. It is placed in the position formerly occupied by Mr Enderby's flagstaff, stands thirtyeight feet above ground, and is properly set up with shrouds. On its top is a small barrel ; below it appears three boards, each eleven feet long (lettered), in the shape of an equilateral triangle. The whole painted white presents a very conspicuous and sightly object, which can be seen from all the neighboring hills, and from the entrance of the harbor. At its foot is a small, wcatherboarded shed, closed in, containing the case, a spade, and a small box of books. Fixed to the mast by a band of copper is a bottle, holding a letter. The next day being fine, I vrent down the East Coast, with one of the officers and a boat's crew, and made the fourth and last depot at Saddle Hill Inlet (marked on another char* as Norman's Inlet). At the head of this inlet (right hand fork) is a pass or gorge, which runs through to tho West Coast, not more than three or four miles across, down which. Pass anyone on that side would naturally take in order to arrive at the East Coast. I placed the case and a spade on a shelf of rocks, under an overhanging cliff close to the beach, thatching it well above and around. Iv front of it, facing the inlet, a board sixteen feet long (lettered), raised fifteen feet from the ground. We had some difficulty in securing it, the natural advantages not being great. A letter was left here. When abreast of the entrance to the bay on our return, we landed at the point and climbed on top of the cliff, overlooking it some 150 feet. We left here a board to indicate the position of the depfit, a hand carved on it, with the finger extended, pointing up the bay. Thus ended our work at Auckland Islands. As Mr Baker, the Chief Surveyor, furnished your Honor with a report in 1865, on the physical geography, geological formation and resources of these Islands, it is unnecessary for me to touch on these subjects, the more so, as I believe Mr Baker to have been accurate in his. statements. I am of opinion that a man might be cast away on a very much worse shore than that of the Aucklands. The pigs have overrun the whole Middle Island (a finer breed of wild ones I have never seen), having these, the seals, numerous sea-birds, of wild fowl, grey duck, and widgeon, rabbits on Bose and Enderby Islands, mussels and limpets on every rock, excellent water and firewood ; with a knife, and possessed . of the means for making a fire, he must be .a helpless fellow indeed who cannot soon provide himself with the necessaries of life. To do anything in the shape of cultivation, it would require immense labor and untiring perseverance. For. apart from the work of clearing away the timber, there are the vast mounds of decayed vegetable matter, covered with mosses, to remove before the soil can be reached. It would then require careful draining and fallowing before a crop could be raised. Except on Enderby Island, the surface is everywhere very uneven, broken up by gullies and creeks. Most of the trees planted by Capt. Norman, of the Victoria, are alive, but looking sickly ; whilst gazing at them, I caught myself calculating the comparative value of a thousand of them, and a single match • to a cast-away. The barometer Btood high, during our stay, aB high as 30deg. 20min. The average temperature of the air, 55deg. Fahrenheit although the weather was fine, the clouds and mist clung most pertinaciously to the hill-tops, and I believe this to be the rule, not the exception, so that notwithstanding the heights of Mount Edin, Hooker's Hill and others, vessels frequently do not sight the land till close under it except in S. W. weather. This haziness of atmosphere, coupled with a probable easterly . current, after a long prevalence of westerly winds, has I doubt not, lured more than one vessel to destruction. We know now of two wrecks within the last three years ; who can say out of the many found " missing" at Lloyds whether one or two more could not be accounted for here. It is very wise and humane to make provision for those who may be castaway here, it would be equally so to take such measures, as will lessen the risk of fhe vessels themselves going ashore. This might.be done by warning masters of vessels homeward bound from i the Australian Colonies to keep well to the southward, or by giving a warning from the Island itself, placing a powerful light on Diasappointment Island or the N. W. Cape. If the labour of the convicts could be utilized these) Islands are admirably adapted for the formation of a penal settlement. We remained four days at Port Boss windbound, the time employed in filling up with wood and water. Thursday, 13th February, brought a change, and with the wind from the N. N. W, we run down to Campbell Island, making the land next day at 10 a.m. . The wind shifted suddenly to the west, and blew a gale, just as we arrived off the entrance to Perseverance Harbor, and as it blew right out from it we were compelled to heave-to. For the next five days we had a succession of gales from W.S.W. and W.!N.W. We held our own well, never loosing sight of the ■ Island. On the. 19th during a lull and a slight change of wind, we . managad to' make the Harbor just before dark, and brought up at the entrance, with both anchors, in eighteen fathoms water, bottom sand and shells, excellent holding ground. - Hardly were the anchors down, when it blew furiously from W.S.W. aud continued to do co" for four days, during which time we were compelled to remain inactive, being unable to do anything even with the boats, further thnu landing the goats (two billies and three nannies.) abreast of us, where the iced was good on the margin of the clitfg. Perseverance Harbor (well named, although perseverance alone won't taken ship up it) is the largest and safest of the three on the Island. About three-quarters
of a mile wide at the mouth, it wi lens a little further up, runs east an I west for about three miles and then trends to the S. W. for another mile and a half. The hills rise abruptly on both sides, to a considerable height between which, as throush a funnel, the wind blows either straight in or out of the Harbor. Anchorage can be found all oier, in from 12 to 18 fathoms. On Monday, 2#h F.'b., the wind moderating we put the pigs (two boars, three sows) the case for the depot, &c, in the boats, and with a large spar, which we brought with us from Enderby Island, in tow, (Captain Gilroy being very seriously determined to leave substantial evidence of the brio's visit), pulled up to the head of the harbor, landing opposite the Victoria's mark, three boards forming a triangle on a staff six feet high. Not fifty yards from it we erected our spar, with the two' boards fixed to the top, as at the Aucklands. The case and spade at its foot, raised from the ground and covered with a thick coating of thatch, well secured. A search was then made for castaways, which extended over two days. We crossed over to West or Monumental Harbor, separated from Perseverance by a range of hills, about three miles across. It is so called, I presume, from the appearance on the top of a j neighboring hill of some large rocks, taking the [shape of an obelisk. This bay is formed by the | jutting out of the N.W. Cape, and a horseshoe 'bend on the south side. A vessel might lie well enough in this bend with good ground tackle, although there must be a considerable swell rolling in with the wind from the N.W. It contains a good boat harbor. On the beaches wore lying several spars and planks .all very old, and a ship's gangway-rail, (metalled) looking, fresh. We saw no twwj«a whatever of castaways. Taking | one of the spars we set it on end, and left a letter at its foot, in a bottle, to indicate the position of ! the dep6t. I also mentioned the landing of the pigs, goats, &c. From the top of the hills dividing the two harbors we could see very distinctly our signal mast with its white .boards — a I very welcome Bight it may prove to some poor naked and despairing sailor. To visit the third | harbor, (North Harbor) we crossed the range of I hills dividing it from Perseverance. From the I top of the highest on this range, Mount Lyall, (which I measured with the sextant, and found to be 1330 feet high) I took bearings of the headlands, which, with some I obtained whilst on the coast, have enabled me to make a rough sketch map of the Island. North Harbor, about three miles to the north of Perseverance, is but a narrow inlet, three-quarters of a mile wide, two and a-half miles long. Through the valley at its head runs a fine creek, which pours its waters into the inlet. A large bed of kelp stretches more than half-way across the entrance. Our search here was as fruitless jas elsewhere. We had lingered for long on the j top of Mount Lyall, scanning carefully all the j neighboring elevations, had made fires everywhere, and raised a smoke which might have been seen 15 miles off, and now, perfectly satisfied j that none of our species, existed on the island, we prepared to return to the brig. Before doing so, however, we raised a cairn of stones, leaving on it a bottle with a letter, as before. Campbell Island (Erebus Point, lat. 50deg. 32 mm. S., long. 169 deg. 12minE) is about eight miles from north to south, and the same from east to west. It is traversed by ranges of hills of considerable height — Honey-hill, to the south, being close upon 1600 feet. The geological formation does not differ materially from that of the Aucklands. In West Bay, however, the cliffs are composed of chalk and beds of flints, resting on limestone. Having heard a rumor that copper was to be found here, I kept my eyes open, but I saw no indications whatever of its presence. Iron pyrites may probably be present, and have given rise to the report. In Perseverance Harbor the geologist will be interested by the appearance of the basaltic dykes, of columnar structure, the pillows vertical, horizontal, and in one place radiating from a common centre, as though the basalt, forced up through a small orifice, had Bpread out in the shape of a fan. The ground is very uneven, which made our travelling toilsome, the foot constantly going into holes two feet deep. The soil is very wet and peaty, the surface between the tussock (Patiti) carpeted with beautiful mosses and lichens of most varied huesj even the branches of the scrub are so clothed, an unerring indication of the humidity of. the climate. The M'Quarry cabbage, cotton plant, (I have an idea that good serviceable paper might be made from the latter), and wild carrot grow abundantly forming most excellent feed for the pigs which we put ashore. The inevitable piri-piri appears everywhere. Of timber proper, there is none on the island. It would take a boat* s crew a considerable time to collect a supply of firewood, the scrub being of the very smallest growth. There is no rata, and the enaki is of a smaller and finer species than that of the Aucklands, beard a small white bell-shaped flower, with a strong perfume, as of hawthorne. There are of course copious supplies of water of an excellent kind. This island seems to be the favorite haunt of the larger sea birds, the molly mawks frequenting the north-east side; the albatross affecting the ranges between the north and south harbors ,• mutton birds par-tout. I think Nature has contented herself with fitting up this island for the reception of such birds— and pigs. The (so called) highland albatross the noblest of all sea birds) lays but one egg in a nest raised about ten inches from the ground. The young birds were just breaking the shell at the time of our visit. The grey duck is found here. Of land birds I only iawthe common ground lark and a small bird like the wren. Bats are numerous, and of a large size. No traces were seen of the pigSj game cock, hens, and geese, landed by Capt. Norman, of the Victoria. The barometer, during our stay, stood at 29deg. 20min. ; average temperature of the air, oldeg. On Friday, 29th Feb., after having made more than one attempt to leave our anchorage, we succeeded in getting out of the harbor, and with a steady breeze from the S.W., we soon ran the distance to the Antipodes Islands, making the land before daybreak on the 2nd March, and verifying their position as fixed by Capt. Norman. But for his observations we might possibly have ascertained their true position for ourselves, in a manner far from pleasant, i the chart placing them some fifty miles to the j eastward, and ten miles to the north. When close to the Island, we fired our guv, and lowering a boat, I went ashore with an officer, e Meeting a landing very easily under the lee (east side), although a considerable 6ea was running outside. Firing the grass as we went, we made for a hill in the centre of the island, which we climbed, and from its summit carefully scanned the whole surface around. We saw nothing but the tussock waving in the wini, the albatross sitting quietly on their nests, and a few parroquets flitting about. We remained four hours here ; the men spread out in different directions, andthenretumed to the boat, with the conviction that no human beings (with the exception of ourselves) were present on the island. : Before leaving, we placed a board on a high rock, securing it with stones, on which is carved "JBrig Amherst, in search of castaways, March, '68 ; by order of the Government of Southland." With it, two bottles, one containing some matches, a flint and steely fishhooks, and a parcel of dressed flax ; the other, a letter, in which I mentioned what . had. been done on the Auckland and Campbell Islands, &c. Those Antipodes Mands (two: a small one lying about; half a-mile off the S.E. end of the main), are situated in lat. 49deg 42min'S., long.j 178deg 43m. E., the coastline bold and rugged, the cliffs having a weather-beaten bleached appearance. The Main Island is about three miles from east to east, two and a-half milee from north to south. Greatest elevation, 700 feet, the hills dotted with high tussock (pa-ti-ti), and patches of M'Quarrie cabbage and cottori.plant. The soil is i peaty, but drier and firmer thanthat of; Campbell j Island ; of ssrub, there is none worthy of the name, scarcely enough to make a good fire with. The albatross here, is the "lowland," and lays two eggs. To walk across country required a little circumspection, progress being made by hopping from tussock to : tussock, * false step 0 causing the. unwary one to subside up to his chin amongst the grass and piripiri. It reminded me forcibly of crossing
swamps in our* own province on t'p of tho Maori heads. The rocks on Mie island aiv purely volcanic. Close to wlwre we landed are large beds of ashes, and a feiuginous scoria. From this and other indications, th • <-onical shape of all the hills, and their roun-te I tops, I am of opinion that the island has been the site of an active volcano. Our course ha I only just been given f>r the ounty Isands when the wind shifted to the W.X. W., and it bW a strong jjale. The brig was "hove to." For seven days we Had a' succession' of strong gales from W.if.W. and W.B.W. . We wore the brig, whenever anything was to be gained by so doing, but despite our efforts we gradually drifted to the N.E. On Monday, 9th, finding ourselves within ninety miles of Pitt's Island (Chatham group), it was decided (there being no sign of a change in the , weather) to run for it, while as yet we could do , so. We Jiade the land in good time tho same day, but were unable to fetch in. A slight change of wind next morning, however, helped us to bring up in Ta Ponga, an open roadstead on the N.E., side of the island. Here -we found the whaler Sapphire and the schooner Express of Wellington lying at anchor. The wind gave us but little rest, for chopping round suddenly to N.W. we had to run for Glory, a roadstead on the S.W. side. Another change of wind in a few houra, brought us flying back to Taponga. When an opportunity occurred, I reported our arrival and the cause of it, to Mr Hunt, a well-known old resident on Pitt's Island, -who, with his family and laborers, constitute almost the entire population on it, the natives having left to take up their land in TaranaH and elsewhere in the North Island of New Zealand. • ._ Ihe soil here is a rich sandy loam, admirably adapted for *.iie, growth of English grasses, of which Mr Hunt has sOnm eoo^uveg and upwards. The cattle and sheep (half-bred Bom n «y jyfarah) loot remarkably well, and are entirely free from disease of any kind. Prom Mr Hunt we-M»Ber«=i= several kind attentions during our stay, and upon our departure he gave us an ample supply of vegetables from his well-stocked gardens. The average temperature of the air whilst at anchor here was 61deg. with the wind from W.S.W. Our patience (and it had been put to a severe test) was well nigh exhausted, when on Saturday, I 14th March, the wind blew softly from the north and we put to sea, ie twenty-four hours lessening our distance from the Bounty's by 150 miles. Once more we received a check in our career, and a repetition of the former winds, kept us from making the Bounty's until Thursday, 19th. A few strokes of the pen suffice to tell how we were baffled in our attempts to close with these islands for a period of eighteen days (including our stay at Pitts) butthey cannotconvey to your Honor anyimpression of the sense of weariness and disquietude from which we suffered during that time of constant strife with the elements. On the same night that we sighted the island the wind changed suddenly to S.W., and blew a hard gale, a heavy sea rising with it. The brig was " here to " ; (her chronic state) and at 8 a.m. next morning, being about 8 miles to the S.W., two trustworthy lookouts were stationed on the foretopsail yard, and we ran down under a close-reefed maintopsau, to within half a mile of the rocks, for such they are, a group of naked detached rocks, extending from N.W. to S.E. about two miles. The sea rose in spray to the tops of the highest (some 100 feet) and breached clean over the lower ones. There I are several outlying rocks awash, at some distance from the mainbody. Of course no attempt could be made to land, but we saw every rock distinctly with the naked eye, and had there been anything as large as a goat moving on them we must have perceived it. Neither man nor beast could exist on the Bounty's, and had I known their nature, I would not have deemed it necessary to visit them. Thus, your Honor, with our visit to these rocks ended the work which we were sent to perform. The instructions received have been carried out, with the same spirit in which they were given. ' . . The depots on the Auckland and Campbell Islands, have been made with care, and th«ir positions distinctly denned. A close search has been made for the castaways, and it is with grave regret such search as fruitless. To all those who entertained a faint hope that the chief officer of the General Grant and his three comrades might still be alive on some of the Islands, it will be a satisfaction to know, that whilst the doubt as to their fate existed, an attempt has been made to succor them. It must be now beyond a question that the poor fellows perished in their boat at sea. I cannot close my report without saying a few words touching Captain Gilroy, his officers and crew ; of their conduct, I cannot speak in too warm terms of commendation. Their bearing throughout was not that of those, whose ship being chartered for a specific purpose, carry out their ilstructions from a mere sense of duty, but of men very earnest of purpose, whose heart was thoroughly in their work. I sincerely hope, should it ever fall to my lot again to embark on a similar expedition, that I may have, for companions my late shipmates, or at all events, men of their calibre. The brig proved herself an admirable seaboat, albeit rather clow, her bottom being very fouL ' Since my return, my attention has been drawn by Captain Thomps;>n,harbor master 1 to a chart in the possession of Captain Boyd, of the Robert Henderson, a chart published by James Imray, 102 Minories, bearing date 1851, on which the Auckland Islands are placed 35 miles to the south of their true position. This glaring error in the latitude will of itself account for the wrecks which have taken place on these Islands, without the further aid of haze and current to which I have alluded in this report, supposing the masters of the vessels wrecked to have been guided by Imray's chart. Captain Boyd is himself aware of the error, it having nearly cost him his ship on a voyage home from the Colonies. Immediate notice should be given to the shipping world of the existence of such error on such chart. I have the honor to be Sir, your obdt. servant Henry ABMSTBOira, J.P, M.P.O. Acting on behalf of the Government.
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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/ST18680403.2.26
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Southland Times, Issue 927, 3 April 1868, Page 6
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6,510WRECK OF THE GENERAL GRANT. Southland Times, Issue 927, 3 April 1868, Page 6
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