MEMORIES CONNECTED WITH THE EARLY Gold Discoveries IN VICTORIA

Southern Cross, Volume 2, Issue 23, 1 September 1894, Page 6

MEMORIES CONNECTED WITH THE EARLY Gold Discoveries IN VICTORIA

(By an Old Identity)

(Written fox the Southern Cross.)

[all rights reserved.]

CHAPTER HI.

The Pilot’s Story. Gold Everywhere. —The Crew Deserts. —The Ship’s Wag. A £I,OOO Hat. Arrival at Melbourne. —Signs op the Times. Engaged for the Wimmera.

Desirous to learn all particulars about onr place of destination, and especially concerning the goldfields, the pilot that came aboard outside the heads was interviewed by a number of the passengers when he was released from duty. From him most of ns learned for the first time that the colony had been separated from Hew South Wales, and that it was then tnown as Victoria. He stated further that gold discoveries were being made daily; and that nearly all the civil servants had resigned, and soldiers were doing police duty until the latter service became reorganised. Almost all the able-bodied male population of Victoria, South Australia, and Tasmania had thrown up their occupations and left for the diggings. About 40 ships were lying in Hobson’s Bay almost deserted, and in some cases were in possession of caretakers. Seamen were offered £4O and £SO for the run to England, and even for that consideration could not be obtained. The officers of the gaols and lunatic asylums had gone off with the rest, and in these institutions likewise the military had to do duty. Poor Tommy Atkins had all the hard work then and got but little extra compensation for it, and it was only fear of the consequences of desertion that prevented the soldiers also from joining in the wild rush to the goldfields. All this and much more was told us of the wonderful state of things existing in the colony while waiting for a breeze to start us for Williamstown.

The pilot’s story created a great longing on the part of all aboard to abandon sea life. An opportunity was afforded some to clear out sooner than expected. Owing to the battering the ship received in rounding the Cape of Good Hope her sides required cleaning and painting before getting into port, and a quarter boat was lowered, and four men told off for the service. While making preparation for this work one of the men was observed speaking in low, earnest tones to a ship’s apprentice. Shortly after the latter ascended the main rigging and appeared to be scanning the country surrounding the heads, while his mates in the boat seemed to be industriously occupied in the task that had been allotted them. In a short time the boy hastily descended and joined the scrubbing contingent. The boat was then sheered off from the ship, and the escapees, after giving a lusty cheer, commenced to row with all their might for the shore. The parting response from those passengers who were onlookers brought the captain on deck. After taking in the situation, he ran to the arms rack, and brought out a musket; but as the boat was by that time out of shooting range, one of the carronades was ordered to be loaded. This duty was performed in a half-hearted manner, and before the gun was ready for firing the boat was nearly half-a-mile away. It was the second officer’s watch when the occurrence took place, but he was not to be seen anywhere. On making search for him he was discovered between decks conversing with a young lady passenger to whom he had become attached on the voyage. It was evident a pre-arranged plan had been agreed upon to get away in the manner described. The men

knew the officer’s weakness, and susr pecting that he would have his customary interview with his inamorata, and that the captain would be enjoying his after-dinner siesta, the boy accomplice had been sent aloft to take observations of what was transpiring on deck. Their premises proved correct, and as soon as the mate disappeared, and the coast became clear, the men got away without difficulty. Naturally the master was annoyed at his officer being off duty, and at the loss of his boat, and threatened to deduct her value from his wages. The delinquent, however, appeared to take the matter coolly, and replied that he (the captain) could do what he liked. The answer was contrary to the usual style of address and discipline observed on the passage, but after the exciting stories told in the morning by the pilot, who could blame him for feeling more independent when within easy distance, as he was, of the land where Jack was, to all intents and purposes, as good as his master ? The captain was soon to have a further novel experience in the matter of losses, and of the readiness of sailors to take advantage of the good times that appeared to have opened for them.

The incident mentioned broke the monotony of the fore part of the day, but the evening hung heavily upon all aboard. There was not a breath of wind at the time, and the owners of the only steamers then suitable for towing in Hobson’s Bay were reaping too rich a harvest by keeping them in attending on the deserted shipping off Williamstown, and in plying them up the Yarra to heed the numerous shipping requirements at the Heads. Next morning most of the passengers were on deck at day-break, and a little later on a greater surprise than that of the previous day awaited them. A few hours after the departure of the boat the balance of the crew appeared to be holding counsel on the forecastle, and, contrary to their usual custom, would not permit the passengers there. It was evident that a plot was being hatched, but none anticipated the outcome of it. The first thing observed was some of the crew placing oars, a sail, bags of provisions, and a couple of cases aboard the remaining quarter-boat. It was again the second officer’s watch, and he appeared to be superintending the proceedings. When equipped and provisioned, the blocks were greased to prevent noise, and the boat lowered. All hands got into her with the exception of the captain, the chief officer, and one seaman. The two former were asleep, and the latter ha,d decided to return with the ship. Meanwhile the skipper was aroused by the noise on deck, and put in an appearance as the oars were being shipped. He could not realise that all hands were deserting until the second officer expressed the hope to see him on the diggings shortly. At this friendly desire the latter recovered his senses, and, rushing to the cabin, brought out some firearms he had loaded the previous evening. The boat was now some 50 yards from the ship, and the men lying on their oars. A demand was made to them to return to duty, or he would fire into them. At this threat one of the crew stated that he was the ringleader of the whole affair, and requested to be the first victim. Others took exception to their mate’s generous loyalty, and decided that all or none should be sacrificed. The captain, a sensible gentleman, by the way, appeared dubious about firing amongst unarmed men, and gave them five minutes to decide whether they would comply with his mandate. At this repeated requests were made for him to “ fire away.” Their banter and undismayed presence proceeded from a consciousness that no danger was to be apprehended from any of the firearms, for the officer in the boat had taken the precaution to pour water down the barrels of each and remove the caps during the time his superior slept On discovering the trick that had been practised, the captain became terribly incensed, and used more forcible language than we had heard

from Him during the entire voyage. After awhile, however, he cooled down, and the whole affair appeared so ridiculous, and so much outside his previous experience, that he could not resist smiling. Perceiving that he was getting restored to his customary good humour, one of the men commenced reasoning the matter with him in a familiar way —“ Look here, old man, if you were like us poor chaps, working for only 40s a month, would you go back in that hooker with gold lying in every direction, and only waiting to be picked up ? We’ll see yourself on the diggings a week after the ship arrives.” The gentleman addressed could not answer this logic, for he retired to his cabin without further remark. A case of brandy was then opened by the men, and “ health and happiness ” drank to all aboard, while the mate requested one of the passengers to remind the skipper not to forget debiting him with the loss of the boats and the broached spirits. Then with three hearty cheers, they took to the oars, and went up the bay, all joining in the song that had become so familiar to us when pumping ship—- “ Oh, fare you well, my own Mary Ann, Fare you well for awhile,” etc.

Here was a nice state of things ! A large ship with only the captain, the chief officer, one sailor, and the passengers’ cook to do the work of 25 men, and, worse luck, a dead calm on at the time. It is needless to say the day hung heavily on all. Hot a joke could be extracted from the ship’s humourist, who had been the life and soul of all our social gatherings on the passage out. As I now think of the pleasant hours passed listening to his quaint sayings, and having again to introduce him to the reader, I will here briefly sketch him.

Dick Robb was a farmer’s son, and a native of Somersetshire. He was at that time just verging on manhood, and a picture of rugged health. Ho entertainment could be carried on satisfactorily without Dick’s assistance. Prom the time he awoke in the morning until he retired for rest at night he was either practising jokes at the expense of somebody, or whistling and singing some old English farm song. Had he adopted the profession of a circus clown he need never have been out of a billet. The seriousminded, or those possessing some peculiarity of character or visage were special objects for his sallies of wit, and yet a better-hearted fellow never existed. Remembering the pleasant times we enjoyed in his company, I feel inclined to think that men of Robb’s temperament are underrated. They are frequently accredited as empty buffoons or mountebanks; but a personal experience of those gifted with ready wit is that their company is more to be desired than that of any other description of people on long, monotonous sea voyages. Two specialities in Robb’s character made his witticisms fresh and enjoyable. He was never known to smile at his own drolleries, while others were convulsed with laughter at them. By his eyes, however, it could be seen that he relished the way they were' appreciated. Another of his oddities was that he never commenced a jest without whistling a few bars of an old-fashioned song — “ When first I went a waggonin’, A waggonin’ did g»,” etc. His object in this prelude was evidently to concentrate his mind on the particular line of attack he was about to engage in. I should say his peculiar gift was transmitted through heredity —a real joker must be born so. Poor old Dick ! Many a time in the after years, when alone in the bush far away from the haunts of men, and no sound to break the solemn stillness, have I longed to hear some of your witty sayings and join in the hearty laugh with which they were greeted. Although our roads in life diverged and we never met after parting on Cole’s wharf, 43 years have not erased from memory the many pleasant hours we spent together, and the friendship that supervened therefrom. Well, calms as well as storms come

to an end some time. Next morning, to the delight of all, a fair landsman’* breeze sprang up. The pilot took charge of the ship, the captain the wheel, and a number of passengers who had learnt the “ ropes ” on the voyage out, assisted in making sail. Willing hands manned the windlass, and to Dick Robb’s tune of “When first we wen a waggonin’, A waggonin’ did go, Drive on my lads, heigh ho!” the anchor was quickly weighed, and with a six-knot breeze we were soon slipping up to our port of destination. W e moored opposite Williamstown early in the evening, and there found, as the pilot had stated, dozens of ships lying in the port without crews, and many others only partly manned. The latter were anchored in lonely places in the bay, from whence escape would be difficult. A number of these deserted vessels had ultimately to take as crews disappointed landsmen who had come out as passengers only a few months previously. They had spent their all on the goldfields without success, and being unfit for the hard life of a colonist, had returned to Melbourne. Nothing offering there to suit them, they gladly availed themselves of the chances offered to get back to the Old Country. Victoria was well rid of such. Material of a sterner mould was required there at , that juncture. There also was seen, as a sign of the times, the hulk President —the first commissioned of the five floating hells, —containing even thus early a large number of the criminals that had been attracted from every part of Australia by the rich discoveries of the precious metal. Shortly after the ship was moored, we had ocular proof of the richness of the goldfields, and the reckless manner in which some people exhibited their wealth. One of the small steamers mentioned hove alongside on her way from Williamstown to Sandridge. She was crowded with passengers, most of them appearing to be new arrivals. One of them attracted our attention at once. He was a tall, sallow-looking person, and was dressed in the orthodox style of an English gentleman —a long black frock coat and a stove-pipe hat. At first sight he was taken to be a Customs official or some other Government functionary. He appeared to have been drinking heavily, and, in an aggressive manner, swaggered about the boat, rudely pushing people out of his way. He soon drew upon himself the eyes of our amusing shipmate, Dick Robb. The old, familiar whistle about “ waggonin’ ” was heard, and we knew that the truculent personage referred to would have a bad time of it while the steamer remained alongside. In an authoritative way he was hailed by Dick. ‘ Now, you long fellow with the bell-topper, what did *you pay for that coat ? It’s a real Houndsditcher.” This sally was greeted with a roar of laughter from all who were onlookers. The person addressed appeared at first amazed at being thus accosted, and then fiercely surveyed his pert interlocutor. The irritation thus displayed was just what Robb desired. Being out of harm’s reach, he gave free vent to his peculiar gift, and lampooned his victim to his heart’s content and to th® great amusement of those aboard the ship and steamer. For iome time the man appeared irresolute as to what course to pursue with his assailant, but when accused of being a deserter and an escaped convict, his fury knew no bounds, and he was soon aboard, evidently with the intention of assaulting our shipmate. But Dick was always prepared for such emergencies, and being an active fellow, he was quickly up the riggingof the ship. The new-comer appeared to be unused to that description of travelling, and all he could do was to utter profane comments about our merry friend aloft. From his place of vantage the latter fired volley *:ter volley of satire, intermixed with good-natured banter, at the incensed visitor, until the whistle sounded for j the passengers to get aboard the

steamer. As a parting shot, Dick inquired if the hat was also bought at Houndsditch, and if he would sell it. An emphatic reply was returned that there was not a blank new chum aboard in possession of as much money as would purchase his hat. Then, uncovering his head, he extracted from it a roll of bank notes that could not have been much under a thousand pounds. They were in £lO, £2O, £SO, and £IOO notes, “Now, what will you give for the Houndsditch hat?” he inquired of Dick. “That’s five weeks work on Forest Creek, and if you can do as well in the same time you may wear any hat you like without caring where it came from.” Here was ample demonstration of the wealth of Australia Felix, and of the slight concern of some of the fortunate possessors for its safe keeping. Although as much surprised as the other passengers, in his usual imperturbable style Dick assured the man that he meant Regent street instead of Houndsditch, and in an innocent way inquired if he wanted a mate. This was too much for our recently irate friend. He vouchsafed no answer, but as he descended the ship side it could be seen from the relaxed corners of his mouth that even he had caught the infection of Dick Robb’s mirth-provoking humour. Next morning one of the tug boats came alongside for the passengers, and we were soon steaming up to Melbourne.

To the many thousands who are now weekly passing up and down the Yarra, it will be a surprise to learn that in 1852 it was not in places more than 20ft. to 25ft. wide, and in some parts the ti-ti scrub could be touched from the deck of the steamer. Victorians may well feel proud of the improvements made in their waterway to Melbourne if, as stated, large English mail steamers can now lie comfortably alongside Melbourne wharves.

In due time we arrived at Cole’s wharf —as primitive a looking structure as could well be imagined. A large number of weather-board sheds surrounded it, and in these were thousands of passengers’ boxes and bags, where they had been deposited by their owners prior to clearing out for the goldfields. The terms for this storage were 2s 6d a week, and to be sold if not taken away within a month. As few of these belongings came again into their original owners’ possession, the proprietors of the sheds must have netted an immense ynrn by the accommodation thus afforded. If one could have been permitted to examine the inside of the numerous tiers of luggage thus abandoned, what food for reflection would have been furnished, for doubtless most contained not only articles of intrinsic worth, but what would be regarded as of much greater value by their late owners—tokens of either a mother’s, a sister’s, or a wife’s affection.

The morning had been fine when we left the ship, but now rain fell in torrents, and in that downpour our temporary home, —a tent that one of our shipmates had brought with him, W as pitched on the flat at the south side of the Yarra. As there was no appearance of the weather clearing np, and the ground being little better than a marsh, towards evening we made for Melbourne to procure shelter and refreshment. All the hotels Tvere crowded to excess, and no accommodation could be procured in any of them. After vainly searching for sometime, we found refuge in an eating house in Burke street. The owner appeared to have some sympathy for our forlorn, bedrenched appearance, and informed us that if we would be satisfied with a “ shakedown ” we might pass the night there. We were conducted to a partiallyfinished shed. The only furnishings were blue blankets on the floor and others folded np in the corners. The ground was dry, and that was more than we could say for the place we had pitched our tent. Soon several others similarly situated to ourselves dropped in, and the place became warm —if not pleasant. I

arose early in the morning and counted 18 able-bodied men lying on the floor, and packed somewhat after the fashion of sardines in a box. And, oh ! the atmosphere !

As showing the sudden demand for accommodation in Melbourne at that period, and the profits accruing to boardinghouse-keepers, it might be mentioned that for the rough shelter of that room alone on the night in question the sum of £8 12s was netted, or 4s per head from its occupants. The day being fine, we shifted camp to the high ground close to the flagstaff and the old Melbourne cemetery. The relief was most enjoyable. The place was covered with red gums and scrub, and being able to keep up roaring fires, our gipsy life was exceedingly pleasant. In the evening the lighters containing the passengers’ luggage and effects arrived at Cole’s wharf. Having decided to go up country, and feeling that there was little probability of there being any use for mine for years, I brought them outside the sheds, and turned for the nonce an unlicensed auctioneer. Cole’s wharf was then a - busy part of the town, and there were always a number of the fixed residents of Melbourne in and about the place. Inviting these to roll up for the bargains, I displayed my outfit, and banishing all sentiment, soon disposed of everything at excellent prices. Indeed, I was surprised at the amount of the sale, for in no case did the articles offered go at less than the upset figure. I must have been amongst the last who practised this method of realising on luggage, as shortly after the sales were stopped. The auctioneers felt that encroachments were made on their preserves, and interfered to prevent them. The Jews did a thriving business out of these passengers’ goods sales. They were the principal buyers, and many a wealthy Israelite laid the foundation of his fortune by attending them. Observing some of these sales a few days after, and the description of goods offered by new arrivals, I concluded that our visitor in Hobson’s Bay procured his outfit at one of them instead of at Houndsditch, as stated by Dick Robb. No lengthy description of life in Melbourne in the early fifties is needed in these recollections. Many have written of them, and I am bound to say that the darkest picture outlined of the place is not materially overdrawn. In no other town of a similar size that has hitherto existed could there have been as much crime and reckless expenditure as in Melbourne for three or four years after the gold discoveries. For several days after my arrival there might have been seen an open carriage—drawn by a superb pair of horses, driven at breakneck pace through the main streets, by a sailor dressed in an orthodox man-of-war suit, and hat and sleeves decorated with ribbons. A number of his mates, similarly attired, accompanied by coarselooking specimens of feminine frailty —the latter attired in the most costly and garishly-hued clothing, occupied seats in the body of the vehicle. The gold furnishings on the women alone would be sufficient to start a modest jeweller’s shop with. A Union Jack floated at the rear of the carriage, while another Jack Tar acted as postillion. They attracted but little attention, however. Everyone appeared to have caught the gold-fever badly, and were too busy with their own private affairs to heed these exhibitions, The men were lucky diggers. It was only one of the many ways in which their easily-acquired gains were spent. But those who openly displayed their wealth in this way did not long enjoy io. The swindlers and garroters seldom lost sight of them until they were effectually cleaned out, and many who brought thousands of pounds ®f gold to Melbourne je turned in a few weeks to the fields “dead broke.” It was then risky for any respectable person to be about after nightfall. There were no police on duty, and the streets were simply patrolled by a corporal’s guard of soldiers every two

hours during the night. But these were almost useless to prevent the unlimited licentiousness that prevailed.

Melbourne at that time presented a most unprepossessing appearance. Almost all the buildings with the exception of the hotels, were of primitive design. The style of architectecture of the business places, with the exception of the front windows, was almost identical with the row of shanties recently so conspicuous in front of our local County Council offices; and the post office at the corner of Bourke and Elizabeth streets bore a strong resemblance to the old Tay street arcade. The thoroughfares were only in course of formation, and some idea of their state may be gathered from the fact that the narrator has seen after a heavy thunderstorm bullocks and sheep washed down the principal streets into the Yarra and drowned. With, all the enticements held out for a man to settle in Melbourne, it had no charms for me, and I resolved to proceed up country. During the week I was recruiting near Flagstaff Hill I learned that large numbers of people on the goldfields had come to grief through want of experience, heavy physical toil, and hard living. These weighed with me, and an advertisement appearing in the Argus that 15 men were required for a sheep station on the Winmera, I offered my services, and was accepted. The remuneration agreed upon was small considering the times, but as a set-off I would have the advantage of getting acclimatised and of revelling in the romantic pastoral life I had read of before leaving Britain, and which, as stated, became specially attractive after I had fully digested Mitchell’s Australia Felix. (To be continued.)