Contributor.

Southern Cross, Volume 2, Issue 16, 21 July 1894, Page 11

Contributor.

THROUGH THE OTAGO GOLD FIELDS ON A;BICYCLE.

(Bv Roadster.)

The next morning revealed a hard frost, but the water had only been congealed on the clay surface, and ■when 1 came to start from Arrowtown the sun; had thawed the.surface and my way lay through mud and slush. I made a couple of miles at a slow pace, but coming thump against a boulder through not giving sufficient room for my pedal, I had to alight and survey damages. A very slight bend in the crank was the sum of the mischief, and I continued my way on foot, meditating upon the necessity of uttejing a r warning to my brother cyclist's to always give sufficient room in passing boulders for the rotation of pedal as well as' tyre. The road for the next few' miles was very greasy and tortuous, giving little scope for riding in the then state of the roads. Passing a classic stream, yclept “ GENTLE ANNIE,” X came to a fine swing bridge over the Kawarau, which hero pursues its turbulent way between precipitous sides at a depth of 60 or 70 feet below the bridge A mile or two beyond, signs of civilisation appeared, and I got a gentle run of a mile or two to Orj'.BSTON, where a handful of farmers manage to eke out an existence on one of those narrow flats which occur occasionally in the course of the large rivers of the goldfields’ area. A lignite pit here supplies the bulk of the coal for the Arrow district, I refreshed the inner man with a good meal at the hotel, and continued my way to Victoria Bridge, the six miles of gentle declivity being nearly all rideable. It was then late in the afternoon, and I decided to put in the night at the comfortable hostelry perched on the’ high cliff at one end of the bridge spanning the swiftrunning Kawarau. My companions for the evening were two young men from Alexandra, engaged in FOSTERING A FISH BUSINESS. They had' to drive from Alexandra to Queenstown, and back, about 130 miles, for their supplies, which came from the Bluff, and were retailed at 6d per lb. Next morning I was soon en route for Cromwell, 17 miles distant, but by pushing the bike up a hill and negotiating a couple of fences, I managed to cut off a couple of miles, thus reversing my usual experience of a N.Z. short cut. The road ran high above the river, and was again very greasy Walking was chiefly the order of the day until X reached the “ ROARING MEG,”

which euphonious name is applied to a creek falling into the Kavvarau. Just short of this point is seen a singular freak of Nature called The Natural Bridge, where the river, which has been running swiftly about a chain and a half wide, suddenly squeezes itself through a narrow rocky passage, across which a man can jump. The terraces on either side of the river have that appearance which is familiar to all goldfields travellers, viz., the neatlypiled heaps of stones with the carefully constructed water and tailraces intersecting them. Dotted here and there on the hills in precipitous and seemingly inaccessible positions are the huts of the miners, some of which have been occupied for many years, and occasionally the grizzled inhabitants are seen like so many Bir VAN WINKKLES gazing with interest at the passing stranger. What power of fascination must the search for gold have upon the mind of man that he will forsake his kindred, often home, position and jxrospects to bury himself in some mountainous gorge far from civilisation, suffering frequent privation, in an all-absorbing search for the precious metal which seems ever to elude his grasp. [The very occasional and

lucky finds in his neighbourhood, I suppose, only whet his appetite, and increase his determination to follow bn the quest for the fickle goddess. The local rain experienced at Aiv row had not reached so far, and henceforward the road was firmer and riding became practicable. A good hard siding next the river made it occasionally temptingly easy, but once mounted there appeared to be rather much of the

BLONDIN OVER NIAGARA .business to be distinctly enjoyable. The main difficulty, however —and this applies throughout the journey; —was the small grips which the County roadmen make every 50 or 100 yards to let the water off the roads, and which, while occasionally negotiable, are generally of so rough and wide a nature as to render it prudent for the bicyclist to dismount to save straining his machine. A dynamite explosion in the vicinity made me thankful that my steed was an inanimate one, or trouble might have ensued. At length I emerged from the Kawarau Gorge on to the long sand flat which lies round

CROMWELL,

and pedalled down the well beaten track at the rate «f knots in exhilaration at my temporary emancipation from the mountain regions, startling on the way sundry Chinamen diggers removing to fresh scenes and pastures new, and laden with cradle and other digging paraphernalia. After three miles of this I reached the sandbelt ■which lies round the town, and had to dismount and pursue my way on foot, having thus an opportunity of gaining somejfirst impressions of this notable town. It is amusing sometimes to recall our ideas of a place before we have seen it and compare them with the actual reality. I knew Cromwell to have been the seat of early sensational gold discovery, that there was a racing fixture entitled the Cromwell Derby, which, for intense interest, put the classic race at Epsom completely in the shade ; and was it not at Cromwell that that paladin of municipal history,

CAPTAIN JACKSON BARRY,

accomplished some of his greatest achievements ? Alas ! how are the mighty fallen ! I see the gallant captain, vanquished at last by age and impecuniosity, no longer able to hold municipal councillors in terror, has petitioned the House to have his claims and services recognised in the bestowment of a monetary tribute to his greatness by a grateful country. Hinc illae lacrimae. The town of Cromwell affords a very picturesque view from wherever seen. Situated on a jutting rocky tongue, formed by the confluence of the rivers Kawarua and Molyneux—the latter coming to th A meeting clear and pellucid, the former murky with the sluicing of many claims. The houses are built on the precipice right down to the fine swing bridge which spans the Molyneux and sustains the traffic. On entering the town my attention was attracted by the large number of Chinamen about, and looking down to the river bank I saw the Chinatown, a v l uster of some 25 low huts, built 01 all conceivable materials—stone, mud, tussocks, and an embellishment of kerosene tins. A few Mongolians could be seen sauntering along the uneven paths between the huts, and A HALO OF MOKE of unsavoury odour hung over the whole place. On the main street the first few wooden huts were evidently Chinese stores, &c. The almond-eyed ones were clustered round the doors, and the animated guttural tones from the interior told me that the Celestial was very much in evidence about Cromwell. I made my way down to Mr Mountney’s hostelry, put up my machine, enjoyed a wash and a change of clothing, having sent my bag on by coach, had a good dinner, and sallied forth to look about me. I called upon some friends to whom I had recommendations, and found such welcome as removed any feeling I might have had of being - a stranger in

a far country, and made my stay in Cromwell pleasant and enjoyable. (To be continued.)