Sketcher.

Southern Cross, Volume 1, Issue 28, 7 October 1893, Page 3

Sketcher.

MAORILAND TO BRITAIN 7 . MALTA AND ITS SIGHTS. (Bt Aurora.) Arrived at Malta, we commenced “ coaling - ” at once, so that was the signal for all hands to go ashore. Our party entered two small boats, and were rowed round to the “ big stairs.” Here we disembarked, and made our way as quickly as we could into the shade, for the heat seemed to be more intense in Malta than in the tropics, Valetta is quite the quaintest old town I have ever seen. The streets are very very narrow, and the houses most picturesque. The people are a mixture of Spanish, Italian, French and Portuguese, consequenty their dress and character are very varied. The strange appearance of the houses and streets, together with the peculiar dress of the people, made one feel as if one were in an unreal world. The town looked more like an old theatre than anything else, and there would have been very little surprise expressed if Henry Irving or Ellen Terry had stepped quietly out from one of the doorways. The whole place is very hilly, and it seemed to be quite a work of art to steer a conveyance of the narrowest dimensions up and down the steep inclines. Fortunately, for the ladies, the duty, in England, has been removed off lace, silk, and feathers. The land of silk we had left behind at Colombo, that of ostrich feathers at Aden, but we were now treading on the soil of the famous lace manufacturing people. Maltese lace is famous all over the world, but those who want to procure it must make haste, or they will not be able to get R without paying an exorbitant price. The Maltese are finding out the value of their own productions, and will not be “ beaten down ” to the figure that you would like to pay. In fact there is very little linen lace being made at all at the present time. The majority is made with silk. We visited several of the shops, buying handkerchiefs and other mementoes, and then we took a carriage to see some of the sights. The fortifications of Malta are wonderful, such solid masonry and such defensive structures I have nevei - seen. <*

We drove round the harbour to the dry dock, and paid a visit to the Camperdown. News of the terrible catastrophe had reached us at Aden, and we were all rather anxious to have a glimpse of the famous warship. As we looked at her, the whole fearful scene seemed to be brought vividly before our mind’s eye, and the feeling of sadness was enhanced when towards evening we learnt that several of the widows of the officers of the ill-fated Victoria were to be our passengers. The story as told by them was ten times as sad as any newspaper account which we had read. It seemed almost inconceivable that in so short a time so much trouble and distress had been wrought. But, in spite of all their sorrow, there was not one but spoke kindly and well of noble Admiral Tryon. After having thoroughly inspected the fortifications, and made sure, as far as we weie able, that the British forces were doing their duty, we drove to the Palace. This is indeed a wonderful building, and contains some very interesting and remarkable things. The armoury room is a perfect revelation. In an immense room, extending from one end of the building to the other, is a sufficient number of deadly looking weapons to stock a whole nation. Suits of armour that must nearly have killed •their bearers without the aid of shot and shell, were particularly interesting. How they could wear such weighty things and live is a miracle. The indented breast-plate, the helmet with a hole pierced through it, the shield bent almost out of shape with the force of powder and musketry, all told their deadly tale, and one could

spend a week here with pleasure and profit if only one had the time. However,' our inexorable guide hurried us on and we soon found ourselves in the State chambers. The walls and ceilings are all painted in the most wonderful manner ; it- almost made one angry to think that one could only spend ten minutes or so in examining all that there was to be seen. The tapestry on the Avails of the Council all description. To think that wondexful work was done, hundx - eds of years ago, by the hands of industrious women makes one’s eyes, and back, and fingers ache. Hei’e we had the honour (?) and pleasure (?) of sitting in Napoleon Bonaparte’s, own chair. It is now resplendent in red plush, but our guide assured us that the frame of the chair was the identical one occupied by the gx*eat French Emperor. Their pride in all they had to tell of the wonderful history of their island was very marked - They love to draw forth exclamations of sui-prise and wonder from you, and are never happier than when they think they have completely petrified you. We also visited the marketplace, and came away with something less than a ton’s Aveight of fruit in our possession. I think nowhere did we appreciate the fruit more than at Malta—it Avas so luscious and juicy, and seemed to be more finely flavoured than that of Colombo or Brindisi. Here, too, we procured quantities of chocolate Nougat —the real genuine article. It is really the most delightful confection I have ever tasted. The ice-creams of Malta, once tasted, are never to be forgotten. How they manufacture them I don’t know, but they are as different as night from day to those we get in other parts of the world,

After we left the market place we tnrned our footsteps towards the most beautiful cathedral in the world Before I left Invercargill a friend said to me, “ whatever you do, don’t leave Malta without going to see St. John’s cathedral.” There was no need for such an injunction, for it seemed to be the rendezvous of every one of the ship’s passengers. The outside of the building is plain almost to ugliness, and one might pass it by a dozen times in the street and never imagine there was so much loveliness hidden behind its dingy walls. Hitherto, the day had been one of continual rush, but now the hush came, for one seemed almost afraid to speak in the presence of so much marvellous beauty and grandeur. The architecture, carving, and statuary were wonderful. Every window was a study, and every fresh turn revealed a new beauty. Every inch of the walls and ceiling was covered with the most delicate and exquisite paintings that the heart of man could devise. The most famous of Italian painters had been employed to decorate this magnificent building. Years had been spent in bringing it to its present state of perfection, and one felt that one was standing in the very place where some of the brightest geniuses of the world had done their work. The floor seemed almost too beautiful to tread upon. It was composed of mosaic work of wonderful design, and round the altar gold and silver took the places of the stones and other minerals used in the other parts of the building. One of the side chapels contained the enormous “ Gates of Jerusalem,” rescued from the hands of the Turks, and these, naturally, excited a good deal of interest and comment.

As I stood for one moment taking in the whole scene from a slightly elevated part of the building, I could not help being struck with certain incongruities. If ever people looked ont of place we did that day ; nothing could have exceeded the grotesqueness of our attire ; decked out without much regard to personal appearance, so long as we were cool, we were a motley crowd to gaze upon. IsTearly all carried a great load of fruit. Here is one hugging a huge water-melon. Yonder is another smuggling with an immense bunch of bananas. Further on is a man anathematising all the Greek and

Roman gods because be bas been cajoled into purchasing more of the “ roll-about ” kind of fruit than be knows bow to manage. It is a curious picture, and , surely the “ sublime ” and the “ ridiculous ” have never come into such close contact before. It is a place to spend days in, and I feel that in trying to give you a description of it, after spending only one short hour there, I have done it but scant justice. However, if any of my readers should ever find themselves in Malta, I should advice them to proceed to the Cathedral first, and don’t leave it, as I did, until the last.