Sketcher

Southern Cross, Volume 1, Issue 12, 17 June 1893, Page 10

Sketcher

MAORILAND TO BRITAIN. IMPRESSIONS OF SYDNEY. (By A UK OR A.) No. 5. Our passage from Wellington to Sydney was all that could be desired. We made a very good run, and sighted the Heads at about eight o’clock on Wednesday morning. The day was exceptionally tine, so that our first glimpse- of one of the finest natural harbours in the world was under the most favourable circumstances. I was prepared for something very beautiful, but my highest imagination did not bring me within “ coo-ee ” of the reality. The entrance to the harbour is very narrow, but once inside you are almost struck dumb with the long range of beauty presented to your gaze. Here and there around the harbour are the most beautiful little bays, and peeping out from amongst the trees some of the most lovely homes I have ever seen. The style of architecture in Sydney is quite different to that of New Zealand. The houses have much more ornamentation about them, and are painted in pretty light colours, making them very pleasing’ to the eye ; most of them have balconies, and bright tropical flowers and shrubs are to be seen in all directions. Sydney is the first place. I think, that has made me discontented with our quiet Invercargill life. I never realised so much before how much we are missing, and how out of the world we really are. The rush and hurry of the busy life bewildered me, and I felt like a “country bumpkin” out for a holiday, gazing open-mouthed at all that I saw. There was an odour of Londo nin the air, and I felt, indeed, that I had dropjied into the middle of a different life. Sydney is a hilly city, and this of course adds to its charm; the buildings are high and handsome, and one is struck with the magnificence of their architecture. But, beautiful as Sydney itself is, it is not to be compared with its suburbs. They are legion, stretching- out foxmiles to right and to left and behind the city. There is communication by steam tram to any pai’t of the city or suburbs every few minutes. The trams am jxxst like small trains, in fact they reminded me vexy much of. -our third-class railway carriages at Home. They go at a splendid rate, outdoing in speed by some hours our 11.40 JMxpresti to Dunedin ! Them is no rushing after a ear frantically with, an umbrella to let them knoxv that you wish to go aboard. If you are not at the street corner at which the cai 1 stojxs to take you up, then the cai’ goes on, utterly oblivious of your existence ! In. wilting a description of ►Sydney and its sights, I feel at a, loss almost whom to begin, so my best plan-will be to give them to you in the. order in 'which I visited them . I was foilimate in having good friends who took me to all that was worth seeing without losing much time, hirst of all there was the Cathedral. Have you ever been inside a place, that sort of made yon feel almost afraid to speak > That' was the fueling . that came over me as I stood underneath the great dome, and looked up at all the beautiful carving and lofty archways. The windows are lovely, every part of the building is a complete study in itself. I turned and left it very regretfully, but knew that my time was all too short to tarry longer. I was fortunate to bo in Sydney for one of their grand organ recitals, when the largest organ in the world is manipulated by one of its finest musicians Monsieur August Wiegand. I shall never forget it. As he closed his first selection, and tilled the whole of that immense Town Hall with a complete volume of sound, I felt almost as if the roof must rise up to make room for any greater sound which ho might produce. The second selection was more wonderful still. Bv the introduction of the wonderful' “ voxihumana ” stop, one had only to shut one’s eyes to imagine that a

splendidly-trained choir was singing a most beautiful anthem, with an exquisite organ accompaniment. I can’t describe it—the English language seems too poor to describe worthily such glorious harmony. The Sydne} r people may he proud of their organ and their organist. Through the kindness of the city architect we had a climb right to the top of the Town Hall tower, from whence we had a delightful view of the city and its environments. I feel that lam using a great many superlative adjectives in this sketch, but you must forgive mo. Positives and comparatives won’t do! The Roman Catholic Cathedral too is also very fine. I happened to be passing at the time of the Confirmation Service, so stepped in with the rest to see what was going on. The singing charmed me, and the whole service was very beautiful to look upon. Prom thence we went down to the Art Gallery ; a new picture had just been added to its catalogue, which is exciting a great deal of enthusiasm just now —“The Queen of Sheba.” I was disappointed to find that we were just ten minutes too early to gain admission. I daresay if the care-keeper knew what a grand opportunity he has missed of having himself thus advertised “ free, gratis, and for nothing,” he would gnash his teeth with impotent rage and disappointment; but like many another one he has lost his chance, and in all probability it will never come back again. When we knocked at the door at ten minutes to twelve we were politely told that the doors would not he opened till twelve, so wc politely turned away and left the Art Gallery the loser. A few minutes’ walk brought ns to the Gardens, and in “ The Gardens ” do the Syndey people boast ! You could spend days wandering up and down the different pathways, and never follow the same path two days together. _ The flowers are magnificent, and the scenery charming. A wide bend of the sea comes right irp to the Gardens, which are surrounded by a promenade extending some two or three miles. Just overlooking the hay is Government House, which very much resembles in outward appearance an old English castle. Sydney has been very busy during this last week receiving and welcoming the new Governor of the New South Wales colony. This is a beau ideal place for shopping, if the people only had the money to “shop” with; but, unfortunately, the times are very had, nearly all the hanks have suspended payment, and there is scarcely a family that has not suffered in some way or other. It is jiitifid to see the rows of iinemployed standing up and down the streets, and I am told that the distress amongst the poorer classes is terrible. Dozens of peojile sleeji out in the open air all night; hundreds are absolutely homeless. It seems very sad that in the midst of so much beauty and grandeur there should he so much distress and poverty. I have seen sights in Sydney which I should not see in New Zealand if I travelled from one end of the polony to the other.

• My account of pur moonlight excurj sion to Cockatoo Island and up the Parramatta river I must reserve until jmy next sketch, as I fear- I have i already out-stepped my limit.