GARDEN NOTES.
Heavy westerly gales have played havoc with unsheltere.d borders, which W T ere beginning to respond so well under the influence of a few warm sunshiny days. It is during these rough periods that the gardener fully realizes and learns to value “shelter” at its true worth. In the calm sunshiny weather one is apt to overlook this most important poinf and omit to plan more shelter for the gardens. The sweet peas have suffered rather badly from exposure to rough winds, but recent showers have improved, their appearance, also that of the borders, the surface soil of which looked very dry and baked after the heavy and drying winds. Seasonable Routine Work.
The/ Soil is again in splendid order for the setting out of plants. Work the surface to a fine tilth, thus conserving moisture. If not able to supply the sweet peas with plenty of moisture, a mulching of some straw littery or long grass cut and placed at the roots will help them a lot. The Rose Shows will soon be with us again and exhibitors should disbud and liquid manure anything intended for the exhibition stand. The planting <■ out of , chrysanthemums should not be delayed, and it is best to get this work over before the dahlias are ready to go into permanent quarters. .. This is also a good time to plant the bearded irises, also known as flag irises. If these are planted late in the season their blooming is usually checked for the next. The bearded irises are among the easiest flowebs to cultivate and they ate so beautiful that every garden should posses few clumps of them. . Plant gladioli, and carefully stake the growing annuals seeming to require this attention. Small twiggy sticks are the best for this purpose. - f ' The Vegetable Garden. At this season constant hoeing is required to keep down the weeds, thus aiding the growth of all plants. Early peas and potatoes are steadily making headway, and the gardener must soon turn his attention to providing a rotation crop to take the place of those that are flourishing now. It is a saving of space, if, as the early potatoes are moulded, and have not been planted too close together, a row; of lettuce be planted between, or a sowing of radish, cress, or any other subject that doea not take up too much room. A little later, plants of the cabbage and cauliflower variety may go between ,as • these do not require much space for the first six weeks or so. Sow seeds now in order to have the plants in readiness. A row of celery and leeks- planted in between the potato i mounds saves a great deal of labour as the ground: only needs to be hoed and manured along the furrow before setting out the plants. A little forethought in this way reserves a
great deal more space for tomatoes, beans, marrows, etc. Gooseberries, ! strawberries, and other small fruits fore setting out the plants. A little litter, such as cut'up rushes, or pine needles, placed under the strawberries keeps them clean, but this should not be overdone. In gardens where there are only a few plants, the sprays of fruit may be put into preserving bottles laid on the ground. This protects the berries from birds and - slugs.
The Dahlia. Now that planting time is at hand a selection should be made from the various kinds. Between the oldtime dahlia and the modern types there is so great a difference that those who have not kept pace with the improved varieties of this popular flower do not recognise them as belonging to the same family. The stiff formal shows and fancies, and the cactus varieties which so shyly hang their heads, have largely given place to graceful flowers ik many shapes and colours, freely produced, and carried well above the foliage on strong wiry stems.' Their adaptability for garden decoration and for cutting is evident at a glance, and that they are gaining favour rapidly is easily understood. For garden decoration the beautiful modern little pompom dahlia is splendid, as the colours are charming and the small, compact little blooms stand up on stiff lengthy stems. These arc great bloomers ,too. All the new paeony dahlias are remarkable for their long stiff stems. There is a small type of paeony of lower growth which makes a very nice bedding subject. These carry the name of charm dahlias. Then there are star dahlias with petals shaped like stars mignon dahlias of dwarf growth, and . ' numerous single and collarette varieties. From the many types now in cultivation it is. quite easy to select plants to form a bed; tall growers for the •j-* 1 ..: background or the middle Of the bed, whichever the, situation demands, * gradually tapering to the very dwarf ones for the frontage. Culture. Dahlias love, .moisture. Therefore* work-the soil as deeply as possible, adding spme well decayed manure. If
this is done, and- the' surface of the ground mulched with some litter, the dahlias will, fare very, well during the hot weather. Where water is to be had in abundance and time permits, the plants will respond nobly to frequent doses of liquid manure applied: when, they are budding freely. Mowing from lawns are frequently used as a mulch for the dahlia beds, alid acts quite successfully in keeping and surface soil, in a moist condition. Pyrethrums.
Many new colours have been added to these popular perennial plants. The first pyrethrums were single daisy-like flowers, now we have many double varieties. The colours range from snow white through the various shades of pink, to bright and vivid crimsons, one of the latest having double blooms of crimson and gold. As border plants they are in the front rank, and for house decoration are at their best on account of the long lasting quality of their blooms. {Their delightfully charming daisy?like flowers, poised on graceful long stems, with a setting of dainty fernlike foliage are always admired. Some gardeners have failed in growing pyrethrums. Personally, I think that it is a mistake to transplant them during the autumn and ’winter months, for planted at this ■time they seem to fall a prey to {slugs and other garden pests as they {do not make enough growth'during •the cold and w r et months to combat {these enemies. Early and late jspring are the best periods to plant. jSelect an open .sunny position, with |a well trenched soil. A good loamy {soil is preferable, but not essential, as {they will grow successfully in practicjally'dny kind of bed that is well {drained and not of a cold damp najture. In the early stages of growth {slugs are very troublesome, and to prevent the destruction of plants, a | light dressing of Vaporite will prove {efficacious. , Vaporite ,as the name iijjiplies gives off a vapour in the soil ! which destroys all insects. Where woodlice are troublesome this chemical is worth, a trial, as these little pests do far more damage among plants than is realised, and vanished, plants are not always due to the raids of the slug,- { Canna (Indian Shot.)
j. In planning and planting for putlunln Teffect;--t-he canna, should not be {overlooked. It blooms from ia.te summer until the flowers are destroy:ed by frost. Few bedding plants give the glorious display of. varied colour in both flower and foliage as the canna does. It is worth growing for the handsome green and bronzy foliage alone, without the crowning addition of attractive tall flo-wer spikes covered with gladiolus-like flowers in all shades of yellow, orange, carmine, scarlet and salmon, with many beautifully mottled or spotted. The varieties are endless and thrive in almost any kind of soil, so long as there is a sufficiency of moisture. The best results are obtained when the soil has trenched a depth of two feet, and liberally manured, keeping the plants well worked amongst in order to preserve all the moisture possible. The position best suited for them is where they are sheltered from high winds and the more liberally they are supplied with water the better -will be the results. Cannos from Seed.
Many new varieties are raised from seed, the plants blooming the second year. They require a temperature of from 75 to 85 degrees in order to germinate succesfully. The large seeds should be steeped in warm water for about '24 hours, and it will also assist germination if a little of the outer skin is removed, by making a slight notch with a file. Sow the seeds half an inch deep. Tomatoes* and rich Soil-
Many owners of small plots have an idea, that tomatoes require very rich soil. They certainly require good soil ,as' healthy and' robust foliage means vigour, which, in turn, means productiveness, and, naturally, these can only be obtained by the use of good soil such as a sound loam,' with the addition only of a few wood ashes and a dressing of lime. When the ground is heavily manured, far too much foliage and side shoots are formed .and the fruit is later in ripening. Some top dressing may be applied at the fruiting period, or liquid manure given at intervals if the plants seem to require assistance, during the ripening of the fruit. '
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Shannon News, 8 November 1927, Page 4
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1,552GARDEN NOTES. Shannon News, 8 November 1927, Page 4
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