GARDEN NOTES.

Shannon News, 18 October 1927, Page 4

GARDEN NOTES.

Seasonable Routine Work.

In the garden, October is perhaps the busiest month of the whole year and ten days of brilliant sunshine has the effect of forcing- the growth of many cherished plants. The roses particularly make rapid headway and many varieties are already producing buds.

Plant chrysanthemums this month, and where dalhia tubers have been lifted and do not show signs of starting into growth, it would be advisable to cover them with sandy soil in some favourable spot. A good many plants may be had from the one root if each shoot is cut off with a piece. of the tuber attached, and placed in pots or boxes until nicely looted before planting out in permanent borders. Plant groups of gladioli at fortnightly intervals where a continuous display is wanted. The very important work of sowing and planting annuals should now be proceeded with, filling up all available bare spaces in the beds and borders. Many of the taller growing varieties may be used for fronting the shrubberies. At this time of the year all ground should receive plenty of surface hoeing, as this helps to get the soil into a fine condition suitable for the planting out of the annuals, besides assisting the growth of perennials. This task is much easier and more quickly accomplished if advantage is taken of a shower of rain. Setting Out Annuals. Setting out plants is frequently done in a very haphazard manner and many failures and disappointments are due to the erratic methods so often adopted. The gardener who loves hi s or her plants studies the npe.ds of each variety and a few well placed specimens are capable of producing a better show than a whole border of unhappy looking flowers insecurely and carelessly planted.

Make a hole sufficiently large to spread out the roots properly and ii using any fertiliser, such as blood and bone manure, use at out a teaspoon ful to each plant, but see that it is | well mixed with the surrounding soil. Place the plant in position with the roots outspread and gently, yet firmly cover with layers of fine soil; lumpy soil is of no use to a plant as there is no possibility of making it firm enough, and lumps prevent the moisture from rising to the surface. Then [ carefully water the plant, not by i pouring the water on top which would loosen it, but by gently pouring around it. If weather conditions necessitate frequent waterings':bef ore the plants have settled, see that the surface soil is lightly stirred as the daily watering has the effect of caking it, Position of Plants. This is one of the most important points for the foundation of a successful garden, and the positions of each variety of plants should be carefully studied offt. We all love'choice, rare and beautiful flowers, but these, when placed out in unsheltered positions, often end in causing the grower many disappointments. Take, for instance that lovely, showy annual, the scarlet salvia. For this to grow really well it should be given one of the warmest and most sheltered nooks in the garden. Near a warm sunny wall suits it admirably, for here the first early frosts do not penetrate. The salpiglossis is another of our beautiful annuals which requires a sheltered spot free from rough winds. It also loves partial shade. Another point to remember is that choice varieties should not be planted in poor soil. There are many hardy annuals such as dwarf nasturtiums, marigolds, dwarf antirrhinums, which thrive in such soil, and where the soil is sandy or gilty, portulaeca. has a lovely effect. Veriiemis and candytuft, the former is a perennial and a mass of the scarlet varieties is effective and showy, also grow well. Another charming little subject which should appeal to all those who have little time to spare is the dainty aubretia. There are soft lavender, white, and rich purple shades, with pretty grey foliage. They are ideal tor edging borders, massed on sloping banks, or for open situations, as their low growing habits are not affected by rough winds. Often a border can be protected by planting something hardy in the background, but this must be bushy in growth. The common summer annual chrysanthemum is particularly good for this purpose, being very hardy, besides producing quantities of mostly yellow daisy-like flowers. The foreground for these may, with confidence, be planted with rarer annuals.

Plant primulas and cinerarias, and foxgloves in the shady spots, with mimulas and musk in any wet situation. For a border which is noted fo r dryness, plant the small bedding petunias. Sweet Williams are one of the hardiest flowers for open exposed positions. Tulips In the Garden. It is now tulip time, for these beautiful flowers come with the apple blossom, rearing stately heads of handsome cup-shaped blooms in wonderful profusion, and in a most charming diversity of colourings. In these days perhaps, we value the

(self colours) in their bright unfigured morning dress, although there are many charming freaks and sorts, and many varieties from the Old Dutch, the'Darwin, and the English. Tulips show to great advantage when each colour is planted in a group of from ten to thirty bulbs, as space permits, taking care that the colours which clash are not side by side. Extremely showy and queenly are the tall flowering Darwins, especially the bronzy shades, the bright cherry reds whicn vie with the red leaved maples in Intensity of colouring, and the lovely soft pinks and salmon shades. Their Culture.

Though the tulip is not fastidious as to soil, growing in any good garden soil, it does certainly love earth that is stiff and deep. A well worked heavy soil, coarse in grain, enabling rain and water to pass freely through is good. The site is important, as the plants should be screened from prevailing rough winds, especially those from the north and east, so that when the tulips begin to raise themselves on stately stalks, they may bloom in tranquility and not be beaten down.

Where tulips show signs of going off, in size of bloom, etc., the bed should be reconditioned when the flowers have sufficiently ripened off. Frequent changes of soil are desirable and the soil should be taken out of the bed. AVhere this cannot be done a crop of mustard or oats should be sown after the bulbs are lifted, and dug in a month before replanting, together with a good dressing of lime. Tulips love lime, or salt may be used as a substitute if the former is not to hand. Where the soil has been removed a covering of turfy, choppedup sods from a heavy, old pasture, Is a capital stimulant. Never use nitrogenous manure In a tulip bed. If manure seems to be indicated while the bed is being prepared, sprinkle a little bone meal, or kainit, or dust lightly—if available — with very best guano. Artificial aid should be resorted to sparingly; it is far better to change the soil to the depth of two feet. Another important item is, that the covering material must bo new to the tulip bed and of the best quality procurable, and the soil should be kept open by slight hoeing.

Gentiana Acaulis.

Quite a number of gardeners have failed with this lovely but erratic subject. Gentiana acaulis is one of the lovliest rock plants in existence, and some have grown it for years merely managing to keep it alive; but when grown successfully it is a mass of beautiful blue trumpet-shaped flowers Where this plant is not doing well try tf the effect of adding some pounded brike and limestone to the soil. The Vegetable Garden.

Seeds of everything needed in the vegtable garden may be sown now, with the exceptions of. the winter greens, such as brussels sprouts, savoy cabbage, and the winter brocoli and cauliflower. Plant out tomatoes and any other plants available. Sow a little lettuce seed every fortnight for a continual supply. Earth up the early peas and potatoes, as nothing makes for a rapid growth better than the constant working of the. soil. Sow the carrots on the most exposed plot in the garden where they will make less top growth with a correspondingly better underground development. Sow parsnips in the deepest dug soil where the roots will be able to push w ? ell down. Sow mangolds this month or the early part of next, also the main potato crop. Tubers should be exposed to the Jight in order to induce them to make nice sturdy shoots. Prepare beds for the pumkins, marrows, etc., in readiness for seed sowing. If for any reason it is preferred to sow the. seed in boxes, transplant when the plants ar e just attaining the first rough leaves. At this stage plants do not seem to suffer the same set back as those larger plants which have developed several leaves. Sow leeks, as these are a good winter and early spring standby. A sowing of beetroot w ; ill later furnish'many a salad dish for the hot summer months, and white pickling onions are always appreciated in the season. These are most easily grown.