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GARDEN NOTES.

Seasonable Routine Work. Plant liliums, paeonies, tritomas, and all hardy perennial subjects. Plant hedge plants, trees and shrubs. Plant roses and carnations, pansies and violets. Transplant violets and primroses. Lift gladioli corns as soon as tlie foliage shows signs of turning yellow. These will not come to any harm if left in the ground, only the disadvantage of doing so lies in the fact that they will all bloom at once instead of over a long period, as when lifted and planted at fortnightly intervals. The earlier planted ones from- last season may be replanted at the present time to obtain some early blooms. Effect any alterations in the plan of the garden. Top dress lawns with Basic Slag. The Vegetable Garden. Sow broad beans, and a small sowing of carrot, and cabbage seed. Sow lettuce and other salad plants required. Plant potato onions, and shallots, asparagus, rhubarb, artichokes and •strawberries. The Kitchen Garden.

Every good- 5 gardener will work but, some time during the winter months, a definite cropping scheme to be followed during the coming year. The smaller the kitchen garden the more necessary it is to get all that can possibly be got out of it. By marking out a 'plan, denoting .he exact position, and the amount of room, each crop is to occupy including rot only those that are to be given in the spring but also those that arc to follow. The advantage of this method are many It will enable each crop to Joe grown in the position best suited to it, anti in sufficient quantities to meet the household needs without an excess to waste and cause additional work, further, it will'enable the ground to be occupied to the utmost advantage producing a constant succession of vegetables all the year round instead of a glut at one time and a shortage at another, also all necessary seeds may be ordered at the one time, and it will also enable special • preparations to be made .for crops that need them. When preparing a cropping plan it is good practice to have, when possible, the vegetable rows running from north to south, rather than from east to west, for thus only can the sun shine down between the. rows, ripening the crops evenly and warming the soil evenly. Also, it should be remembered that for a great part of the year, saladings can be grown between the rows of vegetables demanding a longer season of growth, which method is called ' catch-cropping or inter-crop-ping or rapj r h,tho. ob lhopiz ping. Again, the garden planner should keep together all crops which are similar in character and of similar needs and which are cleared off the ground about the same time, tins-: means that a larger area of ground is available for digging and rc cropping instead of a number of small patches. For the same reason early crops should be together. Runner Beans, and Broad Beans, cast a good deal of shade and, incidentally, may shelter a plot from cold winds, and should be taken full advantage of. Finally, and more Importance of all, the kitchen-garden planner must have in mind the need for following a proper system of crop rotation. It is essential for successful culture never to let the same

crop occupy the same ground two years in succession—that is, to allot each vegetable a, new position every voar. Different vegetables make different demands on the sojl, Potatoes take heavy toll of the potash contents of the soil, but only a very small proportion'-of lime. Cabbage demand but little potash and much lime, so if cabbages followed potatoes there would remain for the

crop ample supplies of lime. Plants also seek their food in different manners. The cabbage tribe and others are surface rooting.plants and only use up the food contained in the surface soil. Parsnips, carrots, and long beetroot, go down much further to seek their food, thus land that would not be able to nourish any of the cabbage family properly, having already borne them, might produce very fine beet, or parsnips. By working on these plans, there Is a saving in manure, with each crop. producing first-class specimens of its kind.

(1 rowing Gerbera Daisies on Heavy Soil.

Many lovers of these beautiful daisy like flowers, with their many charming shades of colour have met with many disappointments in connection with their culture. The Gerbera Daisy, requires land that is well drained, and to grow them on heavy clay land some help must be given. The plot intended for their cultivation should be trenched fully three feet deep, carting away the clay. Before refilling with soil, place broken crocks, old pieces of drain pipes, hones, or anything of a like nature. With the good soil which was removed from the surface mix in some sand, and leaf mould with a fair amount of well rotted manure. The bed should be

made in a warm sunshiny place and when planting do not cover . the crowns with soil. Where frosts are heavy it is advisable to protect the crowns with, a little straw during- .the coldest months. The Gcrbera Daisy is well worth going to a little extra trouble with as it is one of our best perennials flowering for over six months of the year. There are many beautiful new hybrids to be obtained at the _ present time, those also show an increased size in the blooms. Choosing Roses. Now that there is such a bewildering array of charming and attractive roses, tlie choice of a few specimens is not an easy task, where that choice hag of necessity to be limited. „ Each year secs the introduction of many novelties. These are however much higher priced than their predecessors and it is wiser to choose from those varieties, which have been tested and found to be good.'

The ever blooming tea scented roses are the best to choose for small gardens as they produce a much larger quantity of blooms. Ophebia, with is exquisite pointed buds opening to a perfect salmon fresh shade is always a favourite, although Madam Butterfly is often considered a glorified sport and a general improvement on the former, in a combination of bright-pink, .apricot, and gold. Golden Emblem is an exquisitively shaped rose of a beautiful yellow shade, and perfect as this rose is, novelty just introduced threatens to supersede it named Golden Gleam. Among the light-colours, Mrs. H. Stevens continues to Jiold her own with beautiful shaped buds of snowy whiteness, opening to attractive creamy hues. Natalie Bottner is equally good but with deeper colourings approaching yellow. Betty Uprichard. makes a fine bedding rose with its outer petals orange scarlet and the inner face soft pink. For exquisite colouring in the bud stage Sunstar is thought much of but a recent introduction in a climbing sport, of the above is a great improvement. Climbing Irish Fireflame is one of our most attractive chmber3, also a fast favourite is climbing Caroline Testout a largo bright satin rose shade. Hawlmark Crimson is one of the loveliest of the reds, the petals have a gloss and a sheen which surpasses most roses. For garden display Irish Elegance, although an old rose is still a prime favourite, it is one of the very earliest to bloom and beautiful in the bud stage. A large quantity of blooms may be obtained from this rose where it is left undisturbed.,and' only the dead wood removed or any straggling branches. Madame Edourd Hcrriot in coral red shades is also adverse to hard pruiL

ing. Another free bloomer in a single rose is Mrs. Oakley Fisher with rich orange single blooms and beautifuj long stamens ornamenting 1 the centres. This is a strong grower and makes an ideal bedding subject. The dwarf Polyantha roses with their long flowering habits are also most useful for the same purpose, these arc further ornamented during the-a winter months with clusters of orange and red berries. Pruning Currants and Gooseberries. These should bo the first fruits to receive attention so far as winter pruning is concerned. Bed and Black Currants need very different pruning. The Red Currants bear bunches of fruit on short spurs along the main branches and the aim of the pruncr should bo to produce short fruiting spurs along the whole length of the sturdy branches, this is attained by cutting back all young side shoots that are made. The ideal Red Currant bush is cup shaped, with evenly spaced branches radiating from the top of the short main stem or leg. The centre of the bush, should be -epen and free from crowding growths and there should be no -misplaced branches crossing one over the other or too close together. Thus, a bush that is formed anc fruiting should have all the young side shoots that have grown out along the branches cut back to two bottom buds. When the . old branches show signs of weakening the tree should be cut right back to encourage a new set of leaders.

On the other hand the whole object of the pruner should bo, to keep Black Currant' bushes well furnished with long young shoots as it is on the.se young growths that the fruit is formed. Young trees should not be allowed to fruit the first season and should be cut back to tivo buds. This shortening encourages the formation of a strong root stock and ensures that many vigorous shoots are made the following summer which will give a full crop the next season. Gooseberries are often left to take cares of themselves and become merely thickest of congested growths, bearing irregular crops of small berries that are well nigh impossible to gather. On tlio other hand some err to the other extreme and cut back e\ r cry young shoot that is formed. This results in much of the best fruiting Avood being cut away and the bushes induced to produce a crop of rank groAvth every year, which is as regularly sheared off at the next pruning. The happy medium should be struck between these two. Keep

the centre of the bush open training as many growths as you can allow all round without crowding. • Whereever there is room leave sturdy medium sized shoots almost full length, just taking •off the unripened tips. Take ‘Out all weak looking shootsi-of each branch‘by one third. When ‘ the ; pruning ‘Of" the ‘bush is finished it should be possible to pass the .hand; in and “out . among ! the branches- quite comfortably.

Permanent link to this item
Hononga pūmau ki tēnei tūemi

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/SNEWS19270610.2.27

Bibliographic details
Ngā taipitopito pukapuka

Shannon News, 10 June 1927, Page 4

Word count
Tapeke kupu
1,758

GARDEN NOTES. Shannon News, 10 June 1927, Page 4

GARDEN NOTES. Shannon News, 10 June 1927, Page 4

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