IN THE GARDEN.

Shannon News, 18 January 1927, Page 4

IN THE GARDEN.

ROUTINE WORK IN TME FLOWER GARDEN. . I Aa this month is usually hot and i dry regular supplies of water and liquid manure should if possible be given to growing plants. Mulching is also a great help, anything of fstrawy nature being useful lor this purposes a 8 well as lawn grass clippings. If unable to provide dahlias with the necessary moisture grass clippings will be found of great benefit. Attend well, to hoeing and stirring of the soil amongst all crops. Stake all plants requiring this attention, and keep spent blossoms plucked off all plants. Plants of sunflowers, marigolds, antirrhinums, cosmos, and asters may still be planted. Sow out of doors seeds of biennials and perennials such as anemone, ranuncules, wallflower,' brompton stocks, pansies, gaillardias, etc. Sow under glass, cineraria, primula, and cyclamen. Propagate carnations by slips or layers . j Take up bulbs, anemones, ana | ranunculus, and all other small bulb- ! ous subjects where necessary.

The Vegetable Garden. As the early crops mature and space is available, continue -Jiling in with plants such as broeolL, savoy cabbage, celery, brusseis sprouts, leeks, etc., choosing dull or showery weather for this operation if possible. Otherwise it is best to mulch ihem in. taking care to supply plenty of moisture until the plants show signs of being well established. Bow seeds of carrots and anything that will prove useful for salads, taking care to sow them in a shady portion of the garden.

Sow haricot beans for winter use, and prussian bluo peas for the same purpose. So\\r swede, turnip, dwarf peas, brocolli cauliflower, broad, French, and butter beans.

Any ground not immediately required, dig up roughly and expose to the sun. Order lime for autumn dressings.

Gather all weeds as most things arc on the point of seeding for there is a good deal of truth in the old adage, "one year's seeding, means seven year's weeding." Furnish the compost heap witl. anything that is suitable, burning at? that is useless, preferably on some portion of the garden where the ashes aro easily spread for top-dress-ing . Defoliating Tomatoes. Now that tomato plants arc growing freely it will be found necessary to "remove some of the foliage, in order to permit more sunlight to penetrate to the fruit. This work should, however, be done with discretion, as it is a mistake to rob the plant of all its foliage. Not more than half of each spray of leaves should be cut away, and better still, unless the plants are crowded, only those sprays which shade the fruits should be shortened. Another point to bear In mind in torn ota culture, is, not to attempt to ripen too much fruit. On an outdoor tomato not more than four trusses should be allowed to mature.. Even if a fifth truss be formed, the earvj frosts will be certain to kill off th< plants-before the fruit has a chancfc lo ripen, and the plant will have wasted its strength on unnecessary work. Nip off the growing point of each plant directly the fourth lot ot flower a has put in an apyearance. Herbaceous Perennials. Many amateur gardeners aro slightly puzzled' over the term "herbaceous perennials." All plants of perennial duration are not herbaceous by any means. Roses, pansies, gladioli, carnations, clematis and dahlias, are all perennials, continuing beyond the usual limits of an annual or biennial poriod. All plants capable of living and flowering for three or more years must be regarded as of perennial duration. The use of the term "perennials" in any flower-show schedule is too vague if given without any qualification. It opens the door for a very comprehensive display, since not merely hardy, but greenhouso and hothouse plants could be legitimately shown. But it clears the air if tho terms "hardy herbaceous perennials" is used, and judges and exhibitors alike have a chance to know what is intended. The three words "hardy herbaceous perennial," are full of meaning, each being clear, absolute, and definite. First, a plant must be

"hardy" as opposed to tender; it musl be "herbaceous" which at once excludes shrubby and sub-shrubby subjects; and by "perennial" all plants whose duration does not extend to three or more years are shut out. Tf, therefore, the schedule compiler* would but take the precaution to employ definito terms, and, further, give an explanation in a footnote, exhibitors would quickly grasp their meanings, and a good deal of unpleasantness would be avoided. - A class for "hardy herbaceous perennials" for example, may not contain roses, clematises, or dahlias, simply becauso the roses aro shrubs, the clematises —save one or two species—are sub-shrubby, while dahlias are tender, and not hardy. In the past, and for all practical purposes, the definition may stand today, the term "herbaceous* 'was defined as, a plant-producing annual flowering stems from a perennial root and a class, of say twelve hardy herbaceous flowers, could includo such things as lillums, unless a footnote was added, "bulboun plants excluded." Annuals and biennials are usually catered for separately. In a class of hardy herbaceous perennials, the sweet pea, could not be shown though the so-called Everlasting pea. would be quite .permissible. Where these ideas are generally followed, much confusion is avoided, and the show it-, self becomes of greater value gener*

ally, from an educational point of view. Scabiosa Parnassi. One of the prettiest plants for the "rock garden" may bo obtained in Scabiosa Parnassi. This perennial forms neat tufts of greyish leaves, and is dotted over with ' mauvo I'lowjjrs during the summer months. The flowers aro twice as largo as the cluster of leaves from which they have risen, and, resting on the mass of glaucous green, produce a fine effect. They show to great advantage when planted where the roots may descend into deep, open, soil, and tho shoots fall over the face of a rock about level with the eye. The appearanco of the plant is further enhanced by a covering of stiff down which gives the foliage a grey hue. The leaves arc finely cut, and the plant has a good spreading habit r>nd grows into large masses, when grown in good soil and an open sunny position. Ti'ollius (Globe Flower.) These hardy perennial subjects are but little known in our gardens, although they aro often described "as water garden plants. Thriving on the edges of ponds, etc., they are yet very suitable for growing in tho damp borders being easily established, very showy, and in every way desirable. They usually grow to a height of two feet, and in tho flowering season, throw up numerous leafy stems covered with globo shaped flowers ranging in colours from primroso to yellow and- "orange. The variety Trollius Ledebouri is particularly fine, throwing up a large quantity of flowering spikes, each bearing a solitary orange coloured bloom, finished with erect filaments of even brighter hue. Whore a rich effect is desired, it would be hard to find anything more worthy. Another beautiful variety of recent introduction is named Kmpiro Day, and has large clear yolh.w globe shaped flowers, and stiff brilliant orange scarlet stamens. Tho stamens are an outstanding feature of the triollius family giving tho blooms a very distinctive appearance. Summer Care Of Miliums. The great need ol lilies growing in tho open ground is to have their roots kept cool and moist durine Iho hottest days. To this end many choico varieties aro planted in rhododendron and •azalea beds, whero their roots are partially shaded by these shrubs. In a very hot and dry place it is desirable to give lilies a mulching ot semidecayed manure to help keep their roots cool and moist, moss, or grass clippings will answer the purpose if manure is not available. Where thoy arc already supplied with shade from surrounding shrubs the surface soil should bo stirred occasionally, as this helps to keep the ground cool and moist. Lilies aro greatly benefited by watering in dry weather and a little weak liquid manure can bo given them weekly while they aro in full growth. Staking must bo attended to, as tho tall stems are apt to get broken by strong winds and even heavy rain has been known to break down some of the more fragile varieties. Green fly are fond of spoiling the shape of the flowers even if they do not entirely spoil the buds. A weak solution of quassia-soft-soap 'emulsion or any other reliable insecticide will soon clear off the pests. In the caBO of rare lilies it would bo wise to syringe the plants with pure water about ten

minutes after using the insecticide to prevent any possibility of scorching. Tho beautiful Madonna lily (L.. candidum differs from most other varieties under cultivation in that it takes u rest after flowering and begins making new foliage again towards autumn, growing all the winter if the weather is mild. This habit of growth makes different cultivation necessary. While tho other lilies can bo moved in winter or new plantings made in early spring, the right time to deal with the Madonna lily is during tho late summer, while it is at rest. This lily resents being disturbed, and should be left alone until plants become toq crowded. Whilo liliums require shade at the base it must not be inferred they like a shady position Sunlight is essential if they are to da their best. If planted amongst tho low-growing shrubs they thrive well, especially if a placo is chosen whero the shrubs have tk tendency to root deeply, and do not rob the surrounding soil of too inubV nourishment,