IN THE GARDEN.

Shannon News, 7 January 1927, Page 4

IN THE GARDEN.

The Flower Garden Warm sunshiny aays have had the effect of bringing out all that is best in the borders, and a glorious display of blooms exhilirates, and gladdens the eye of all lovers of the beautiful. The Hose borders in particular, are giving of their . best, showing exceptionally fine blooms. Rambling over walls, pergolas, and archways, the climbing Roses are indescribably gay and are quite a feature of the landscape. Sweet Peas are still covered with bloom, and many gay and brilliant annuals are daily opening a larger quantity of blooms. Among the perennials the ever popular Carnation holds pride of place, its fragrant bloom adding much daily interest to the gardener. Routine Work Recently set out plants are making rapid growth and will only require occasional hoeings to keep them growing in a satisfactory manper. Keep the garden bright with flowers. As soon as the early annuals such as Shirley Poppies, forget-me-nots, etc., although tho last mentioned is not strictly an annual, it does best treated as such, pull them up and make room for a planting of Asters, Marigolds, bedding Nasturtiums, or anything that will brighten the border until tho first frosts make their, appearance. Plants that are only producing an occasional flower, and show decided symptoms of going off, arc far better removed and a fresh lot planted while there is yet time for them to make a good display a few weeks hence. Remove all dead flowers and so prolong the blooming season of the plants and, at the same time, give a freshness to their appearance. If any Chrysanthemum plants are backward, with very weak dose 8 of sulphate of Ammonia, or Nitrate of Soda, made at the strength of a quarter of an ounce io a gallon of water. The mixture must not oe allowed to touch the leaves or they will drop off. Also give the plants a good soaking of clear water before applying any chemicals. Common saltpetre is also a good thing to bring tho plants on with, as it contains the same ingredients as the two above things combined and will be found excellent to water with about once a month. The earlier planted Dalhias are commencing to bud freely, keep the side growths off these, and see that they are firmly staked, as there is nothing so easily broken down with heavy winds than a Dalhia plant. During dry weather keep them well supplied with moisture, with occasional doses of weak liquid manure. Keep all borders well lioed and your plants will not suffer very much' during a dry spell. Seeds to Sow Many amateur gardeners have an idea that seeds aro only to be sown during tho Spring months, but there are many perennials whose seeds may bo sown now, with , advantage. One of tho first things I should recommend is a good sowing of Iceland Poppies. Freshly ripened seed is often to bo had at this time of the year and a nice batch of plants can, bo got ready for the refilling some of the borders as the Asters and such things have finished blooming. When the plants aro large enough to handle from the seed pan, transplant, them in a corner or the vegetable garden where, if looked after, they wiil make sturdy little plants, ready for the Autumn planting. Anemones, Ranunculus, Pansies, Violas, Wallflowers, Aquilegias, Canterbury Bells, Sweet Williams, Genius, Carnations, etc., may all be treated in a similar manner. Tho seed pans should, of course, be kept in rather a shady place and covered with scrim or brown paper until they have germinated. This prevents the soil drying too quickly on the surface. The Vegetable Garden Tomatoes are growing rapidly and will require a certain amount of attention. They should bo staked, and all side growths ripped out as soon as they are largo enough to handle. It is surprising liow quickly these come on if left for any 1 length of time. If left on they quickly dominate the whole plant, and instead of nourishment going to tho fruit, much of it goes to these growths instead. Large growers recommend a teaspoonful of Sulphato of Ammonia to be sprinkled round each plant and worked into the soil as soon a s the first bunch of fruit has fairly set. ' After four or five bunches of fruit have set, nip the tops out of the plants, thus sending all the nourishment to the development of the fruit. Tomatoes are very susceptible to blight if the weather is at all showery and humid, but in a dry season they keep fairly freo from this trouble. Spray at once if blight should make its appearance in your district. Weak doses of liquid manure will do much to increase the size of your fruit if applied regularly, but if the giving is only to be a sort of spasmodic operation, it would be best to leave it alone altogether and content oneself with just keeping tho surface soil well stirred. Finish planting out Leeks, Celery, Brocolll, and Savoy Cabbage, and other winter greens. All these things require a rich soil, and the ground snouid be manured if at all poor. As soon as the Marrows and Pumpkins have grown sufficiently long, nip off the end of tho branches in order to encourage the sido growths, a much larger quantity of these useful vegetables will be obtained by following this plan. Peas, French Beams, Carrots, Turnips, Swedes, and Lettuce may still be sown to furnish o, succession through the autumn months. The earliest maturing Peas should bo sown at this period. Keep the compost-heap sprinkled with lime, which helps to rot it down also

keeping away any unpleasant. smell. This is well worth taking care of, as the refuse is one of the most valuable things for digging in in the late autumn. The autumn is the best of all times for manuring tho garden, when all the plant food that is available in it will be taken up by tho plants that are set out during tho winter and spring. The autumn is also the best time to lime tho garden. Weedy Paths

There is nothing that detracts so much from the appearance of a garden as weedy paths. The present month is a very good time to clear them up by poisoning them. Good weed killers can be bought, which will do the work effectively and well, or ono can be manufactured at home by boiling one pound of washing soda in a gallon of water and when it is dissolved add. one pound of “white arsenic” and boil the whole lot for three quarters of an hour, stirring constantly. Mix this with from twelve to fifteen gallons of water, according to whether the weeds to be destroyed are old or young ones. When using any of these preparations care must be taken that none is sprinkled on the adjoining lawns and flower borders. Also keep the poultry away from the poisoned area or they may be killed by eating the . worms y that come to tho surface. After a few days the dead weeds may be swept up and burned. Paths treated in this way are much better than those, that are being constantly broken up by the hoe besides saving much valuable time and labour.. Budding Roses

The best time to bud Roses is when they are in the first-flush of their beauty, as then, under the influence of the rapidly rising sap, the hark will riso well, and unless it does work freely the chances of success aro small. It is best to bud during the morning or evening, or in dull, cloudy weather, as then there is less strain upon the detached buds before they become united to their foster parents. Even a good workman makes bungling work with a bad tool, so the knife must be keen ,a clean cut wound heals more quickly than when the tissues are bruised. In the case of Standard Briars the buds should be inserted close, to the main stem, first rubbing off tho thorns to make a clear field for operating, and to permit the tying material being drawn close around the wound to keep out the air. Budding is a very simple operation, the failures arise more often from lack of judgment in selecting the period for doing the operation than in its performance. If the bark works freely anyone with a sharp knifo may havo as much success as an experienced gardener, but experience is of value in telling how to select tho buds of the right age. and when to perform tho operation. The operation itself consists in making an upward longitudinal cut two inches long on the upper side of the branch, as in tho caso of a Standard Roso (or on the smooth log of a dwarf) then making a transverse cut a quarter of an inch below the upper end of the long cut in both cases tho cut to bo just through the bark only' and with the smooth Ivory handle of the kuife gently raise the bark and slip in tho bud. Make the shield of the bud fit in closely by cutting it square at the

upper end. after it has been gently pushed home. , An experienced budder would put in many buds in the time it takes telling how it is done. The shield of the bud need not be larger than half an inch, as large shields in the hands of inexperienced budders tend to make the operation more difficult, and in removing the buds, which is the most . important operation in budding, there is •no necessity to cut very deeply into the wood, just, a thin slice that will be easily extracted by taking hold of it at the lower end with the point of the knife and the linger and thumb and gently drawing it our, as if flueye of the bud comes away with the wood the buds cannot grow. The leaves should be removed from tlio wood containing the buds to be used, and as soon as cut it is best to place the ends of the shoots in water, as it is important, that buds be used in fresh condition. Tho tying material should be soft, but yet strong enough to bear the pressuie of being drawn up tightly, but not so tight as to cut the bark, just enough to hold the buds firmly in position, raffia answers the purpose very well. One bud to each stock is enough, although two may bo used in the case of standard Roses. Dwarf Roses, both the Briar and Maretti stock are best budded low down, removing a little of the surface soil around the stem, putting the bud under the soft, moist bark just uncovered. In the hottest, driest weather, by the removal of a little soil with a sharp pointed stick, a place can be found for Inserting the bud with every chance of success. Some peoplo in budding standard Roses and also dwarfs .head back the stock to make the buds start, but dormant buds make the best plants the following year.