GARDEN NOTES.

Shannon News, 4 August 1925, Page 1

GARDEN NOTES.

The garden is still suffering from over much moisture, which seriously hampers those desirous of planting shrubberies, rose beds, plantations, etc. All pruning work may, however, be got on with, and the trimming of hedges. Lawns which require topdressing should be done at once, a dressing of super or slag at the rate of one ounce to the square yard will be beneficial. Rose planting is still seasonable, and the list of new varieties continues to grow, making choice difficult. Where the ground is in a suitable condition fork over the soil between shrubs, and in shrubberies, burying all old leaves which act as manure. Where manure is plentiful and can. be spared, a little should be applied to all flowering shrubs. Deep digging with a spade often injures the roots of shrubs. Make an effort to clear the borders of all rubbish and fallen leaves, which have a tendency to blow all over the garden. Sweet peas should be tied and kept off the ground. The Vegetable Garden.

Make a sowing of dwarf peas, and sow thicker than if for a later crop. Stretch a length of black cotton along the row when finished to keep off birds. Broad beans can be sown on any soil. Trenching may be done, even when the soil is too wet for other work, and much rubbish may be disposed of in this way, which will benefit the growing crops later on. Prepare the. onion bed,early, so .that it has time to settle before planting or sowing takes place as all onions like a firm bed. Prepare the ground for potatoes and make a sowing of cabbage and cauliflower, which must be protected from birds and slugs. The Fruit Garden. All deciduous trees, such as apricots, peaches, apples, pears, etc., may be planted now, but citrus fruits are best left until August, when the soil is a little warmer. Pruning should be pushed on with all speed, and as soon as this is done spraying may be undertaken. When pruning the chief points are to shape, the tree, to prevent overcrowding of brandies, and the removal of dead wood. Varieties which make vigorous growth should not be pruned heavily, . as in these it only tends to encourage excessive grbwth. Vines should also be pruned as soon as possible. Prune the gooseberry trees, and strike cuttings where needed. Cut the dead wood from among the raspberry canes, and keep down suckers, also replant new beds without delay. North Borders. Great difficulty is often experienced by garden lovers, who possess a north border, where nothing seems to do really well. But many more plants will thrive satisfactorily in a north border than is usually supposed, though naturally such plants are later in growth and flowering than when placed in more congenial positions. The nature of the background, too, which gives the northerly aspect, has much to do with their development and success. For example, north borders backed by a brick or stone wall will make plants later than if the background were a ’.rood fence, a shrubbery, or hedge; and this because, through the latter, some warm air and light will be sure to penetrate to the plants, whereas none is possible through a rigid wall. But the chief requisite for the successful cultivation of plants on the north site is the nature of the soil. If this is reasonably light, and the border provided with proper drainage, artificially, if not naturally, success can be assured with a fairly large choice of subjects. On the other hand, if the soil is heavy and sticky in texture, and the position badly drained, it is practically useless to expect those healthy results which gladden the hearts of all really true gardeners. Indeed money, time, and plants are almost wasted if the rooting medium for plants in any position is unfavourable, but especially is this true when dealing with plants destined to fill northerly situations where a ray of sunshine rarely, or ever, comes. At the same time, it should be remembered that a north border rightly prepared can become the means of prolonging the flowering season of many of our hardy plants. It may be helpful to beginners to divide the examples into two groups, namely, spring flowering, and summer flowering. Spring flowering plants for this border must be confined to aquil'egias, commonly known as columbines, crocuses, fritilaries, hepaticas, lily .of the valley, the common daffodils, primulas, primroses, saxifrages, the London pride (saxifraga umbroso) being worthy of special mention, forget-me-nots violas, violets, heleboros and snowdrops. Summer flowering plants include solomons seal, michaelmas asters, or daisies, campa.alias, heliantlius, Spanish irises, and the yellow water iris, lupins, mallows, musk, mimulas, wallflowers, tree phlox and spiraeas. All these, once <they are established, may be relied on to succeed, though naturally the date of their flowering will be later than if they were growing in warmer places. The appended lists are in no wise exhaustive, but they will serve as a guide to those whose lot it has not been to glean largely in the field of experience. In addition to . the above these borders can be made* to acquire an added touch of brightness during the hot summer months if annuals such as dwarf nasturitiums, agertums, calceolaries. clarkias and lobelia are grown in pots and used in filling up the gaps when in bloom. They will bloom for a long period, seeming tt

enjoy their cool shady position. Lobelia, which is often cited as a sun loving plant, flowers splendidly in a north border, some parts of which are quite untouched by sun. * Hardy Ferns. Another feature of true permanent worth for north borders is the use of hardy ferns. Charming, natural and pleasing resuits follow the planting of bulbs between a few ferns grouped together. It scarcely matters which kind of spring blooming bulb one employs for associating with ferns. The arrangement is bound to satisfy, and by the time the foliage of the bulbs becomes unsightly the fern fronds have developed* into a natural screen of such. Hardy ferns, too, can be used in conjunction with the flowering plants, both being irregularly grouped in lots according to the space at disposal. Climbers. These, too, have a place'in the north border, though the selection Is much more restricted when compared with those which are useful for other more favourable aspects. Where the background is of shrubs, or. a hedge,' no climbers are really necessary; but where a wooden wall is in existence, a desire is often felt to cover *it. This can be done with ivies, jasmine, the perennial everlasting peas, climbing roses, Virginian creeper, and where not exposed to rough winds, camellias are often trained as wall subjects with beautiful effects. Where it is desired to combine utility,.nothing better can be employed than crab apples, morella' cherries, gooseberries and red currants; with a little judicioifc; training, these succeed well. Both the cherry and the crab apple in blossom create a grand sight.