GARDENING NOTES.

Shannon News, 21 April 1925, Page 4

GARDENING NOTES.

For delightful colouring nothing excels the autumn garden. The many beautiful shrubs and climbers noted for charming autumn tinted foliage are commencing to gladden the • eye 'with gorgeous colourings. Among 'climbers there is nothing so beautiful 'and graceful as the many species of Virginian creeper which are now at their best. Walls, pergolas and arches gain an added distinction, while covered with these beautiful creepers. The guelder rose trees are assuming lovely tints, and the dainty leaves of Fagus fusca are bright with colour. Berberis thumbergii is creating another bright splash of colour. Tall flowering cherries' are displaying warm rich colourings in the shrubberies, while the Japanese and Canadian maples are gaining in attractiveness each day. What' is commonly known las flowering May is now looking its | best; In sunny positions the dainty sprays of leaves are very bright, while grown in the shade their tints tend more to golden. Nature supplies a bountiful feast of'colour, before the grey cold days of winter set in. Beautiful bronzy and yellow Heleniums are now in full bloom, with clumps of dainty pink, whUe, and red cosmeas ‘nodding with each breeze, dalhias are still gaily blooming, in localities untouched by frost. A few roses are still with us, and the chrysanthemum, our queen of autumn flowers is slowly but surely unfolding numerous petals, with a promise of great beauty to follow. French and African marigolds are blooming freely, their charming tints cf brown, blending harmoniously with the beautiful autumn .leaves, while scarlet salvias continue throwing out fresh spikes of-bloom.

Planting Waiter Margins. Trees and bushes are indispensable ‘embellishments to water, concealing its real extent, besides producing light and shade. In planting near water, however, it is well not to interrupt the best a’nd most lengthened view of < it, as seen from the house, and principal parts of the grounds, neither must we entirely shut out from view, the whole of the ends or boundaries of fhe outward prominences, or some ■of those parts which project into the water. ,At the same time caution should be used not only to prevent the eye from catching ,the various ; bends of the outline of water, from any one point of view, but also to afford variety in the grouping of the trees and •.shrubs. The following may be named as suitable subjects for planting in the neighbourhood of water. The common Alder kept low by occasional cutting makes a fine fringe, and if the water happens to be a running stream effectually acts as a barrier where the current is likely to wash into the bank. The common bramble, red Dogwood, Honeysuckle and .the rambler rose Dorothy Perkins are all suitable for planting a few feet higher than -the level of the water. Among the larger trees employed, not exactly for fringing the margin, but at a moderate distande from the water, the Wych Elm is the most elegant, and should be planted as extensively as position will its elegant massive twigs and pendant branches entitling it, above all other large trees; to this distinction. Nevertheless the English Elm; Lime, Beech, Weepi’ng Birch, and Larch are also appropriate Every kind of Poplar should be excluded, except, perhaps, the Lombardy of which two or three could be planted so as to rise out of the midst of masses of other trees. Ih planting, room should be allowed for walking near the water’s edge, sometimes close to it, and at other times, with a bush or group of shrubs intervening. -In the case of ponds, where the margins aie of a muddy nature* many kinds of tall irises will flourish, also all species of flax and pampas grass grouped • naturally will give good effects. Then there are many tall reed like grasses that prove effective, including til Canary Reed (Phalaris arundinacea) Manna grass (Glycirea fluitans), Dover grass (Fistuea elatioi) which all grow from three to' six feet high, but whatever is used, always plant so as to form an irregular and nature-like fringe. 1

Repotting Ferns. One of the most important points in potting ferns is to wait until they are just moving into new growth again; we want the roots in spch a • state that they will take to the 'new soil at once. Without this we get a stale compost very early, and it is seldom advisable to water them until the roots are well into the new soil. Too large a shift is also less beneficial than a slighter one, and the'annual repotting of these favourite plants is responsibe for many indifferent, results. A plant that is pot-bound will improve by repotting, but when barely filled with roots it does not appreciate disturbance, provided the soil is well drained and suitable. Of the vast number of ferns now in cultivation, the Maidenhair (Adiantum cuneatum) is by far the most popular. It is an excellent plan to cut down the whole body of fronds, where the plants are attaining a shabby appearance. Some ferns, the Maidenhair among them, ,m ay be divided when potting, but . ferns raised from spores are usually the best. After cutting ferns back, stand them in a warmer temporature i until the new fronds are moving freely, keeping them there until the new fronds are nearly developed. 1 Fibrous turfy loam is the best soil for ferns, it may be difficult to get in many localities, but obtain the nearest approach you can get to it. Turf from the roadside is very good, cut up and slacked, turfy loam, peat, decayed leaves, and a dash of sharp sand, the three former in equal proportions will do for almost any species of fern, Car;e must be taken to mix thoroughly and never pot into soil of less temperature than the ferns are growing in. Non-attendance to this has caused many disappointments, nor can this be wondered at when the roots of a plant, just pushing into fresh activity are immersed in a compost some ten to twenty degrees co]d-

er than it already occupies. To make the soil firm round the ball of a plant which has recently been occupying a pot almost as large needs care, add a small portion at a time, and ram down fairly firm with a potting stick. Unless this be done properly water will percolate through the new soil too freely to allow of any moisture reaching the old ball, without an undue amouht being supplied, ahd there are few things in the culture of ferns, more injurious .than this. As a class, amateuz-s look upon ferns as needing a large amount of water, wtih a few exceptions we do not find ferns growing in a wet soil, in their natural state. What is wanted is a quick drainage with a soil of that medium moistness, spoken of as cool. One or two crocks fitted over the drainage hole with a small quantity of charcoal or cinders on top will provide safe drainage. Shake away a good bit of the old compost, use clean pots, and avoid exposing the roots for any 'ength of time.