GARDEN NOTES.

Shannon News, 6 March 1925, Page 1

GARDEN NOTES.

Heavy winds have considerably damaged the garden; and plants that have not been securely staked have suffered severely, in open exi posed situations. Asters, Zinnias and ; Marigolds are making a brave display, flowers and shrubs alike present a worn tired appearance after a heavy gale, even the buds show signs of damage, and the plants are some little time regaining their usual buoyancy emphasising the need of more shelter for the garden. Recent showers have considerably hided the' gardener, the soil is in a more workable condition, for the sowing of small seeds and other general roptine work: Where space is available, seed of all handy annuals for spring blooming, may be made in the open ground. Work the soil finely on the surface and sow the seed fairly thick, thinning out later, when- the ‘ plants have attained a fair size, poppies especially like to be sown where they ai-e to remain, although they may be transplanted with success, if done in wet or showery weather. Sow seeds of Nemesia, Godetia, Antirrhinum, Stocks, in fact anything that will stand the frost. A much greater amount of success, attends the autumn sowings, the plants are a nice size by late autumn, and are not so easily demolished, when the slugs and snails make their appearance in ftrmidable numbers. Continue sow* ings of sweet peas, and plant bulbs of Narcissi, Tulips. Tirtonia, Freezias, Ixia and Hyacinth, also plant corms of Anemone and Ranunculus, Propagate Carnations, Geraniums, and Pelargonium. Keep the Dalhias supplied with liquid manure, and keep a look out for caterpillars, if they make their appearance in any quantity, spray with a mixture of arsenic of lead or klatakilla, Used as per directions on packet or tin. .Caterpillars at this season often attack the leaves of creepers and shrubs, com-.

mencing their devastating work front the under side of the foliage, ' the leaves are riddled with holes entirely spoiling- their appearance.. A timely spraying will often check this pest Lawns may be renovated and sown from now on.

In the vegetable garden; seeds of spring cabbage and cauliflower may be sown 1 . Also a small sowing of lettuce. Lift and store all early potatoes, which at this period usually commence what is termed the second growth if left in the ground. Prepare all vacant plots in readiness for autumn planting, also manure the plots as much as possible, growing onions, carrots and parsnips on the plots that contained cabbage, cauliflower and others of a like species Follow a rigid system 4 of rotation with your crops, thereby obtaining the best results. The same thing sown successively on the same ground, in a few years shows unmistakable signs of deterioration, and are more subject to blight. Onions may be grown with success in rotation crops for several years, yet even so, it is not Worth risking the crop if you can manage a change for them. , Irises from Seed. Few people other than the raisers of new varieties ever think of raising Irises from seed, yet the subject is a most fascinating one, and man> beautiful hybrids are obtained in this way. Seed may be sown at any time during the autumn and spring months, using a sandy loamy, mixture with ample drainage, plunge the seed pans up to their rims in ashes or fibre and place in a cool position. If sown in the autumn germination takes place in spring, and if spring sown during the summer months. As soon as the plants are large enough transplant to the open borders, where they will bloom the following; season. If choice seed, is obtained, the results are well worth waitingfor.j

It is quite safe to say that daffodils are favourites with / everybody. They are the flowers that herald in the spring and come when other things are scarce, every garden has some or should have sohie. Now is the time to lift and divide clumps that have been glowing in the same place for years. Take all the' bulbs out carefully with a fork arid if the clump is to remain in the. same place replant eight or nine pf the best bulbs. Do not break away any of the offsets from the large mother bulb, unless they break away naturally. It is best to replant with the offsets left on as one bulb. Many growers complain of their clumps not flowering freely, this usually results from an overcrowded condition of the bulbs, or due to cutting off the foliage after blooming instead of letting it die away naturally. If the clumps are divided up and plenty of room given for the development of each bulb, they will bloom freely. Planting out bulbs in grass, otherwise called naturalising, is maksing rapid strides in New Zealand, and is always a good way for using up any surplus bulbs. Few gardens or shrubberies are complete in spring time, without these natural looking drifts of golden yellow among the gress. The work is verysimple, as all that is necessary to do, is to scatter the bulbs as though for a scramble. Where several fall together it is quickest to remove a square of turf, break up the soil undex-neath and plant the bulbs, replacing the. turf. The young shoots will l’ox-ee themselves through the grass, and may be left undisturbed, the only thing to guai’d against is, cutting the gi-ass before the foliage has died down. The whole of the trumpet section is splendid for this purpose, and many of the whites and bicolours do equally well. Most of the incomparabilis also take very kindly to this method, especially Lucifer and Sir Watkin. In some favoured sheltered locations, blooms have, been obtained from bulbs so planted fit for the exnibition table. In (British gardens tulips are used with charming effect in the same way, both the Cottage and Darwin types, but in our New Zealand gardens growers do not, seem to have

acqitii-ed them in sufficient numbers, to warrant such lavish planting. Di-iKs of gay flaunting tulips is perhaps a pleasure yet to come when our tulips multiply sufficiently to allow the gardener a free hand.