LIFE IN PANAMA.

Shannon News, 4 July 1924, Page 4

LIFE IN PANAMA.

an ciry. OLD RUINS VISITED. SCENES OF ENGLISH BUG--CANEBR’S EXPLOITS. (BfvaL.) Early on Saturday morning, April 11, the cabin, steward peeped in. ana exclaimed that land wan discernible and what appeared to be the American fleet. On e wAs immediately, awake, and from the- deck could be seen, miles ahead, in the murky atmosphere, the faintest outline ofland —-a portion of the Gulf of Panama: But of the fleet there was no sign. One included the cabin steward's reference to its presence in the gulf amongst the many--strange Tumours than gain currency on shipboard. On the two evenings preceding Captain Cameron, of the good ship Remuera, had given lectures on the early history of Panama and the construction of the canal, and proved himself as capable a lecturer as he is a seaman. If the desire did not'exist-before to see the old city and its historic environments and the greatest feat of engineering it certainly did as a result of the captain’s informative talks. Most boys have read of the ‘ discovery of Centr; I America 1 and the Pacific Odean, of the rise and fall of the Spanish Main, of the ceaseless war waged against the Spaniards oy the intrepid English seamen and buccaneers. Few places in the world have provided shch scenes of adventure, wild life, tragedy, failure and success. Therefore, apart from the natural desire to stand again on terra flrma, tne visit to such an historic and interesting spot was keenly awaited. THE AMERICAN FLEET. As the haze lifted the tripods and outlies of a cluster of strange looking vessels began to emerge. The cabin steward Was tight—after: all we were to see the American fleet.; We steamed closer and there saw the American fleet in all its grandeur and mightgreat super-dreadnoughts, cruisers, submarine tenders, airplane terriers, ugiy-looking submarines, hospital ship, and all the rest of the equipment of a modern war fleet, but without destroyers. We were subsequently to see the latter ranged together in flotillas of fives, resembling so many grey WQlves anxious to throw off the leash and dash at their prey. It was a not-able-sight, and. one not likely to be 'forgotten by those privileged to behold it. ■ ■ ~ ‘ All about the fleet seemed to be stir and bustle. Mototf boats were steaming hither and thither, and there was one continuous stream of mosquito Ves sels moving towards the port, - some four or five miles'distant. Thefes is 1 one long wharf, and ! its chief characteristic is its mass of ironwork; towering high in the air, that rapidly refills 1 the bunkers of coal driven ships, and which, during the war, was a ! Bburce' of great interest' tio - our ooys on the troopships. The Remuera arrived at midday, which meant that vve' cduld not go'through the canal iintil the morrow and therefore would be able to spend the afternoon and evening in the city. OLD AND NEW PANAMA.

After luncheon the American fleet appeared to be emptying its personnel on the wharf, for a procession of launches, small and great, came in from the bay, and the wharf and its environs were soon) a- perfect moving mass of white-clothed seamen seekingmeans of going ‘‘up town.” There appeared to be an unending: number of taxis, all driven by blacks., Near by was erected, evidently for the occasion, a'' Y.M.C.A. tent, whereat the sailors y could slake their thirsts —and it was fiercely hot —and just above , native women, in wigwam-looking , shacks, were clamorously offering fruit for sale. An electric tramway ’connects with old Panama, about four or five miles distant, but, of course, it was quite unequal to the demands of the occasion, and so mere civilian visitors, desirous of seeing, the sights, had to wait their turn for taxis.

That portion of Panama occupied by the United States, and in which it has its administration offices and buildings for its staff, is called Balboa, after the discoverer of the Pacific. It is a modern town, laid out on approved town-planning principles, with buildings adapted to local climatic and other conditions, and its public buildings, hospitals, etc., built on comprehensive lines worthy of a great nation. The streets, however, are -fltirfow and the curves more, acute than would be allowed in New- Zealand, but the bitumen surface is perfect. The workmen are quartered in apartment houses, which are provided with wide verandahs or piazzas, enclosed in gauze to keep out mosquitoes and flies, add here are to be seen Juan r and Maria amid their numerous progeny, Juan generally doing himself comfortably in a rocking, chair. The-white officials have their separate bungalows, which are set in beautiful surroundings—coconut palms, the varied hibiscus, and the beatitifur" bodrgainville, the whole creating a pleasing effect.

Balboa is, of course, a modern creation, and bears every evidence of it, and the contrast with the ancient city of Panama is therefore All the' hioTe striking—on e modern and progressive, the other old and backward. Our taxi driver, evidently a half-breed points out the various points of interest *as we speed along.

WHERE UNDERTAKERS THRIVE. The first are the cemetries at the entrance of old Panama, on either side of the narrow roadway. On tlhe left is the Roman Catholic cemetery, also Jewish and Chinese cemetries; on the right the Masonic cemetery, where the “heretics” are buried in ground that -,has not been consecreated. 'Members of the fraternity were the “bete noir” of tl e, religious orders that formerly ruled Panama with a rod of iron, and accordingly th e latter would not allow their remains to be buried in the same ground as the “faithful.” The Pana-

manians seem to be very proud of their cemetiries, from the prominence they give them, and the way in which they are tended and beautified. In fact, they are regarded as one of the show features of the city. In the old days the burial grounds were let to a “concessionaire” who made quite a regular business of burials, letting, out coffins pn-hire and selling plots to the. highest bidders. If the payments for the hire were not kept up, then the remains were disinterred and the coffins sold to others. This in the days of the deadly yellow and other fevers. No wonder Panama became known and shunned, as the most unhealthy spot in the world. But even unto this day, it is said,-the poorer classes of th e district, unable to pay ■ for presentable coffins, ■■ hire them for a period' and trust to 1 fortune to maintain: payments 1 . But the authorities have fortunately : shut down upon the < old “concessionaire’s” practice of disinterring the remains and; scattering them abroad to become food for the ravening birds of the air; they are ' now obliged, in case of default of payments, so we wore told, to re-intier them, but in less pretentious coffins! THROUGH NARROW STREETS. But on to the old 'city. The' main road —styled an “avenue” by the inhabitants—is still very narrow, and how our driver and others .he overtakes or passes don’t come to grief is surprising. The narrow shaves certainly keep us in a state of excitement. On the footpaths, also very narrow and raised some two feet above the 1 level of the roadway, there is a jostling, expostulating crowd of na-, tives, the men folk in summer attire, I the women bedecked in garish “glad l rags,” the blackest of them affecting white frocks, shoes, hats and all, as if to give striking contrast to their shiny ebony arms and faces. Stone buildings with corrugated iron roofs, looking as if they have long effected their purpose, face the footpaths, and their balconies overhang, affording shade to pedestrians on the sidewalks. The. houses all seem to be full of people or at least the balconies -and bottom rooms do. The latter, we are informed, are native shops. 'They are npt very pretentious, thC- goods/being few and of the cheap jack^rda^. As we reach the centre of tfife more imposing buildings are to be seen. In the squares • stone seats are provided for the-tired inhabitants and most of them are-tired looking—and here they sit in the shade of the coconut and other palm trees gazing : contendedly upon the moving mass of humanity, sauntering occasionally into a. nearby church or cathedfal. Judging from the number of churches and cathedrals the Panamanians are a tfuly devout people. The edifices are situated at'vantage points on the nari row,. winding streets of the city. We visited some of them. One which is the oldest, is that of San Neri, and over the entrance 'is Cut* inr a shield the words “San Felipe Neri, 1688.” Like the other churches, it is of the Moorish type of architecture, and is said to have been built by the monks' themselves, These were evidently master craftsmen, ® for their ‘work has endured for centuries. Amongst other things they understood the making of cement, coloured and uncoloured, 1 for so hard is it that it has withstood for 236 years the effects of the * heat and moisture of this destructive climate without deteriora- ’ tton. /

HISTORIC CHURCHES. Over the churches they made their inscriptibnO in cement, in some instances filling in odd spaces with ornamental pearl shells, which at one time mdst have looked very beautiful. The front of the building is plain, the entrance or porchway being reached by a few plain .steps, on either side of which are a few unornamentfed columns. The inside is also plain, some painting depicting scenes in the life of Christ, relieving the plainness and drabness of the walls. The whole building is surmounted by a quaint ol<jL tower of the Moorish type. Lashed to cross piece are the old-time bells. The door is substantially made, and could not be easily broken. The walls,

we were asured, are nearly five feet in thickness, and the windows so deeply recessed as to remind one of, an ancient fortress or prison. As a matter of .fact, the churches were built for protection against the Indians, and many

and desperate were the battles fought by the early Spaniards against the Indians of the early days. When pressed they sought refuge in the churches. The cathedral of Panama is perhaps the most interesting building in the city. It is recorded that it was completed 144 years ago at the sole expense of one of the bishops of Panama, whose father was a coloured man. The latter made charcoal, and brought it on his back to sell from house to house, a custom that obtains to his day. He gave his son a good education, and the son proved his worth by rising step by step until he became Bishop of Panama. He was the first^col 1 oured bishop, and ' developed into a fine man. Much of the stone used in the construction of the building is from the highlands of the interior, and

was brought many miles on the backs

of the faithful. How they managed it is a mystery. Their backs must have been strong and broad. It is a beautiful building. Rows of pure white columns at once attract attention; then* solidity, proportion and whiteness, with arches above, are strikingly impi-essive.- The columns divide the. building into main and side aisles. The first pair terminate above in an almost flat arch, the upper surface of whicii. resembles a miniature viaduct. Above is the roof, of a dark reddish, rdch wood. The next set of columns has a different species of arch, higher up and running directly to the roof. Some of the arches bear the coats of arms of Leon and Castile. The altars are also very beautiful, particularly the main one, which has rich fittings. 1 In the past' the cathedral was very wealthy. Its -figure of the Virgin wascovered with precious stones and pearls, the votive offerings of ite mem•b6rs, whilst* its "service was of pure sil-

ver and gold. Following tho expUision of tlie priests and sisters bfchfifrityit -was despoiled of its wfeailtb.’ Since' the restoration of the church, however, much of its former grandeur has been reinstated.

FEATURES OF THE£ CITY. Time pressed, and we Were unable. to stay longer in this beaUtifUl” Old building, or to linger and view the City hall and other prominent buildings oi the town. The Panamanians have some queer ideas. For instance, their gaol is situated right in the heart of the city, and from the top windows could be seen the peering eyes of «~»e incarcerated prisoners. They also have a single electric tramway, running through the main narrow streets and alongside wore to be seen four-wheel- ■ ed victorias drawn by donkeys or attenuated horses. The footpaths were used as market places, blacks with monkeys and parrots and bright plumaged birds endeavouring to sell them (mostly at high prices) .to the American Jack Tars who were crowding the streets. Then we sped off to the hospitals. And such buildings! One would think they were large enough to accommodate the whole population, yet men were busily engaged in making large extensions. One noticed that practically all the manual work was performed by the blacks and very little by the lighter coloured Panamanians, who are the offspring of the original Spanish and Indians, and, like-most half-breeds, have retained little of the virtues and most of the vices of their forebears. * The itinerary our motorist had mapped out for us Included a visit to the ruins of old Panama, and particularly to those of St. Anastasius Cathedral. /The route was over a narrow concrete road, the evenness and condition of which impressed one, and through what might be termed the suburbs of old Panama. Here one witnessed some strange sights. The houses are mostly two-storied, the inmates living in the upper, and the domestic fowls, goats, dogs,etc., sharing the lower, though one noticed that fowls and ducks also stalked unmolested in t/he living rooms which had windows and doors wide open to secure all the air possible. Ventilation is a necessity in this climate, for the heat was intense, even in a nftfayr car, moving at a fairly rapid ANCIENT HISTORY. The first) object of historic interest shown was a stone bridge erected over an arm of the sea that was traversed by Morgan and-his merry men in order to attack the old city. The'bridge was built nearly four hundred years ago, l and to this day, despite' tihe 'climate and earthquakes, is in excellent order. The arch is a pretty one, and from! the roadway nearby makes a fine picture. • Following the discovery of the Pacific by Vasco de Balboa, on September 26, 1513, new and vast fields were opened to the ambitious and daring adventurers of Spain. Many of them crossed over to Panama, and built a city of, Oriental splendour and luxuriance. Churches and monasteries were established, and equipped regardless of expense. Their fame spread through out the World and* led eventually to the destruction of the city by buccaneers. History states that in the city there were’over 2000 houses of stately appearance inhabited by the wealthy classes and the 1 king’s ' and 8000 .of more' modest pretensions occupied by tradesmen'and the poorer classes. There were even buildings allotted to the keeping of the king’s horses, used solely to convey the king’s treasure over the paved way to Porto Bello, on the Atjantdc ‘ side, thence to be shipped to- Spain. It was a dreamy, senuors life for the governing class. The natives were enslaved and cultivated the fields and did all the other manual work. The islands in the. gulf yielded magnificent pearls and the mines of Peru untold wealth.