ADVENTURE IN TIBET.
,A BRITISH BUDDHIST,
ESCAPE FROM MANY PERILS,
The leader of the British Buddhist Mission has now returned to Darjeeling from Lhasa,’ wrote the Calcutta correspondent of the London Times on April 20. Dr. McGovern, it will be remembered, was turned back from the frontier with the mission four months ago. He determined to make a second and secret attempt. In bis view, as an ordained Buddhist pnest, he was entitled to enter or eave Tibet without the knowledge of the Indian Government. ' . ... On January 12 he left Darjeeling with four servants, his route lying through Namchi, Dikchu, Lachen, Thangu, East Chomiomo, and on to Karula, eighteen thousand feet above level After battling with snowstorms and being more than once compelled to retrace his steps, Di McGovern was faced at Hangu with e
strike by his servants, whom forced to proceed by the aid of his fistjs. On the desolate Pass of KarU, Di. McGovern revealed to- his servants iis final plans to ’reach Lhasa* Here his secretary was disguised as master I Dr McGovern playing the double role, of coolie assistant and cook. The woik of disguise was extremely painfu , doctor dyeing and painting his whole
body so as to avoid detection in case of search. The weather was ex trcmelv cold, with a biting wind, and he had to dress in the Umigarments of a . pear, ant in the depths of flhe frontiei winter. Before sunrise on February 1 he Tibetan frontier was crossed, and little- pasty camped m the open fa Pom any village. Dr. |lcGovern in order to escape detection, wanted to continue in tlie open, but the servants threatened to desert unless they spent the nights in the Tibetan rest houses This made the matter more dl ® for the leader, who coulc, not affo, for a second a relaxation from tm strain of his perpetual disguise. The party proceeded in the company of two small traders as far as Shigatse.
ATTEMPTS AT BLACKMAIL. In Shigatse, the secular town attached to the Tashilumpo Monastery of the Tashi Lama, the second greatest spiritual personage in Tibet. Dr. McGovern was bothered by attempts at blackmail on the part of the “master” of the expedition, who imagined the doctor to be in his power. A compromise was arranged, but throughout the remainder of the journey attempts at blackmail added to the doctor’s dyffi-j culties. The route from Shigatse to Lhasa -.ws along the Tsangpo River, but precipitous mountains made it necessary for the parV to diverge and follow the R'Vig River to its source in Lake Yamdok. This is new -territory, completely unmapped, and in the dead of night when the rest of the party were asleep, the explorer made sketches from memory for the benefit of future cartographers. Reaching the village of Jase, 75 miles from Lhasa, Dr. McGovern discovered that the Indian Government had learned of his attempt, and had telegraphed to the Tibetan Government asking him to be stopped. Loral officials were ordered to examine ah travellers going to and the party was subjected to scrutiny henceforth at almost every stage of the journey. The pseudoAnaster was most carefully- inspected, but Dr. McGovern, 'disguised as a hunyble hireling, with a heavy pack on bis back, was, -happily, only superficially examined. At one resthouse the doctor heard .n discussion between the landlady and the servants' to the effect that the spiritual omniscience of the Da'-ai Lama was sure to penetrate the disguise of the foreign devil and send him lack. IDENTITY DISCLOSED. 1 The hardships of the doctor at this point were increased by an outbreak of dysentery, but, happily, he was able, ai 'he village of Jangme, to exchange (he remaining mules tor a horse, on which he rode to the Potala residence of the Lama, one mile from Lhasa This point was reached on February 15, the Tibetan New Years rive, which complicated mat core The streets were filled with drunken brawlers, and detection might have led to ; the doctor’s death. In addition, the difficulty was experienced .n finding a lodging, but after diligent search the-doctor was accommodated in a small room in.-Hie centre of tlm Forbidden City itself. He was so ill “hat he had to he carried upstairs. Tie found himself the guest of Lepeha Babu, who was i,i charge of the newlyinstalled telegraph service, and to him lie disclosed his Identity. The next day news of his arrival tv !V , made known in Lhasa, and caused rioting by the populace. Dr. McGovern did' not intend to stay more than a week, but had to remain six weeks before he left the city, against the wishes of the Tibetan Government.
Here Cor tire present the story of the romantic Odyssey ends, the Buddhist Mission, ‘‘for political and personal reasons,” withholding further information.
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Shannon News, 6 July 1923, Page 2
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801ADVENTURE IN TIBET. Shannon News, 6 July 1923, Page 2
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