THE MATTERHORN’S VICTIMS..

Shannon News, 8 November 1921, Page 1

THE MATTERHORN’S VICTIMS..

TRAGIC INCIDENTS REVIVED. London, November 5. Owing to the absence of snow on the Alps, it is hoped to recover the body of Lord Frederick Douglas, killed in .1865 during Mr Whymper’s first ascents of the Matterhorn. In,his book, “Scrambles Amongst the Alps,” Mr Edward Whymper tells the tragic story of Lord Frederick Douglas’s death, while a party of seven guides and climbers, roped together was making the descent from the summit of the famous Matterhorn, which, after years' of effort, had then (July 14, 1865) been conquered for the ' first time. The passage, is as follows: —

, Michel Croz had laid aside his axe, and in order to give Mr Hadow greater security, was absolutely taking hold of his legs, and putting his feet, one by one, into their proper positions. So far as I know, no one was actually descending. I cannot speak with certainty, because the two leading men were partially hidden from my sight by an intervening mass of rock,, but it is my belief, from the movements of their shoulders, that Croz, having done as I have said, was in the act of turning round, to go down a step or two himself; at this moment Mr Hadow slipped, fell against him, and knocked him over. 1 heard one startled exclamation from Croz, then saw him- and Mr Hadow flying downwards! In another moment Hudson was dragged from his, steps, and Lord F. Douglas immediately after him. 'All this was the work of a moment. Immediately we heard Croz’s exclamation, old Peter and 1 planted ourselves as firmly as the rocks would , permit; the rope was taut between us, and the jerk came on us both as on one man. We held; but the rope broke midway between Taugwalder and * Lord Francis Douglas. For a few seconds we saw our unfortunate companions sliding downwards .on their backs, and spreading, out their hands, endeavouring to save themselves. They passed from our sight uninjured, disappeared one by one, and fell from precipice to precipice on to the Matterhorn-gletscher below, a distance of nearly 4000 feet in height. From the moment the rope broke it was impossible to help them. So perished our comrades! For the space of half an hour we remained on the spot without moving a single step. The two men, paralysed by terror, cried like infants, and trembled in such a manner as to threaten us .with the fate of the others. Old Peter rent the air with exclamations of “Chamounix! Oh, what will Chamounix say?” He meant, Who would believe that Croz could fall? The young man did nothing but scream or sob. "We are lost! we are lost!” Fixed between the two, I could neither rqove up nor down. I begged young Peter to descend, but he; dared not. Unless he i did we could pot advance. Ok! Peter became alive to the danger, and swelled the cry, “We are lost! we are lost!” The father’s fear was cowardly—he thought of self, alone. , At last old Peter summoned up courage, and changed his position to a rock to which he could fix the rope; the young man then descended, and we all stood together. Immediately we did so I asked for the rope which had given way, and found, to my surprise—indeed) to my horror—that it was the weakest of the the three ropes. It was not brought, and should not have been employed, foi the purpose for which it was used. It was an old rope, and, compared with the others, was feeble. It was intended as a reserve, in case we had to leave much rope behind, attached to rocks. I saw at once that a serious question was involved, and made him give me the end. It had broken in mid-air, and it did not appear to have sustained previous injury. For more than two hours afterwards I thought almost every’moment that the next would be my last; for the 'Taugwal'ders, utterly unnerved, were not only incapable of giving assistance, but were in, such a state that a slip might have been expected from them at any moment. After a. time we were able to do that which should have, been done at first, and fixed rope to firm rocks, in addition to being tied together. These ropes were cut from time to time, and were left behind. Even with their assistance the men were afraid to proceed, and arid several times old Peter turned with ashy face and faltering linil> and said, with terrible emphasis, "T cannot!” . About 6 pm. we arrived at the snow upon tiie ridge descending to < wards Zermatt, and all peril was over We frequently looked, but in vam, for traces of our unfortunate com-

panions; we bent over the ridge and cried to them, but no sound relumed. Convinced at last that they were neither within sight nor hearing, we ceased from our useless efforts, and, too cast down for speech, silently gathered up our things, and the little effects of those who were lost, preparatory to continuing the descent; when, lo! a mighty arch appeared, rising above the Lyskamm, high into the sky. Pale, colourless', and noiseless, but, perfectly sharp and defined, except, where it was lost in the clouds, this unearthly apparition seemed like a vision from another world: and, almost appalled, we watched wilb amazement the gradual development of two vast crosses, one on either side. Tf the Taugwalders narl not been the. first to perceive it. I should have doubted my senses. They thought it- had some connection with the accident, and I, after a while, that it might bear some relation to ourselves. But, our movements had no effect upon it. The spectral forms remained motionless. Tt was a fearful and wonderful sight; unique in my experience and impressive beyond description, coming at such a moment.