Mt Ruapehu a safe mountain?

Ruapehu Bulletin, Volume 14, Issue 688, 27 May 1997, Page 6

Mt Ruapehu a safe mountain?

r?avl. Wajcelen, senior conscrvation ofhc i-r |T™ |f" atn not a mountaineer. However. 1 have f I enormous respect for mountaineers. Few JLthings are more exhilarating than standing on the top of a snow-covered peak, foggy breath hanging frozen in the air, each muscle reminding you of the hours of step-by-step ascent. Around you, the view is as wide as forever. There is a mystical aura about mountains that transcends cultures and religions. Mountaineering is a thrilling sport, but one that can be deadly as two recent climbing deaths on Mt Ruapehu can testify. Is mountaineering dangerous? Regional conservator, Paul Green, an experienced climber, says that the sport is "no more dangerous than many other pastimes or pursuits. But like many sports, there are extremes, from simple and safe mountaineering in the best of conditions andon the easiest of routes, to situations where the climber tests not Only every skill and past experience but also the limits of theequipment and capriciousness of the mountain and weather systems." Are the mountains becoming unsafe or are the mountaineers at fault? It would be easy to point the finger at those venturing into the mountains and say that they are not as fit or well-equipped as in the past but that would be unfair and unfounded. With large numbers venturing onto Ruapehu' s upper slopes, especially since the 1 995/96 eruptions, those who work closely with the mountain have raised concerns about climber compctence. WhatXve do know is that conditions this yeac have been unseasonal and a major contribuling factor to recent accidents. While we have revelled in the Indian summer of the last few months, quietly, insidi(M|j§, conditions have been changing in the |p6®tains. Whakapapa' s acfing field centre manager, Dave Rothschijd, explains: "Warmer temperatures during the recent snowfalls formed wet snpw surfacS which have now frozen into hard, sojid icy slopes. Gnarly rime ice has grown on the surfaces near thefidges. A fall on

easy to moderate slopes will produce a very rapid slide with no safe runout. The many protruding rocks due to the shallow snowpack at this time of the year are the only obstacles to arrest the fall. Snow surfaces on soulhern aspects such as above Turoaremain frozen hard all day at this time of the year." Dave and other members of RARO (Ruapehu Alpine Rescue Organisation) have been involved in many resciies on Ruapehu. It is a skilled job requiring a high degree of fitness, agility and dedication. Usually the calls confi^ate at night or

early morning and more often than not in worsen- / ing weather conditions. The hardest rescues are those involving fatalities. Too accessible Dave has concerns about climber prepared■ness.Jp "I kpow that accidents can happen to even the most experienced climber. What is worrying is that the Ruapehu area is too easily accessible to inexperienced adventurers. Many do not

perceive the real risks in the alpine environment. Theylack an awareness of current and likely weather conditions or how to read the state of snow and ice. They often do not wear clothing appropriate to the alpine climate. They are not proficient in self- | atrest with ice axe or practised in travelling with | prampons and ice axe. They do not rope up and I belay according to the risk." Self-arrest is one of many basic mountain craft techniques taught by Mountain Safety Council instructors, tramping and climbing clubs. It is a technique whereby the ice axe is held across the body as the climber falls and the pick is worked into the ice surface in a controlled manner as a braking device. Usually in situations where this technique may have to be used the climber would

be wearing crampons 1 It all happens so last," says Da\e, "aot only must the body weight corne downon the ice ax e but unless the craropons are lifted ciear of Ihe stope, there is a risk that they wiil catch and spin thS climber jut of control. Ideatly, elimbers should be roped together, with one acting as a belay on a potentialiy dangerous sectioh of a climb ' | Learn and practise , ! % The clear message is the need, riol only to leam mountain craft techniques, but also to practise them regularly in a safeiocation. It is a liFe-sdvlhg

technique that must be pracfiseduntifitttcomes f a second-natufe feaction to a slip. , jjr The generll requirements for mountaineering are no different from any sport. Fitness and stamina are essential. As much as in any sport good Cquipment, well y o ■ i r * maintained is importantjf Today there is a wealth of* t specialised gear around. Knowing how to use the gear in all sorts of conditions is vital. Self^arrest

techniques, rope work and being able to work as a team make the difference between an enjoyable climb and one fraught with misery and danger. Belay techniques (where one climber is anchored to the mountain by a wedge or ice screw and pays out rope to the advancing climber, ever-ready to lock the rope should a fall occur) make for a good safe climb and should be carried out whenever the steepness of the pitch or sheet ice mean there is a risk of a fall. A good climber also meticulously studies mountain guides and maps and take along clear mental pictures of the best routes and safe retreats. ; Experience is the best teacherand most elimbers would quietly admit to at least one scary experience that taught them caution and imbued wisdom.

Person®! experience - ■ • snfoi *•'/ * •»* Ingffotoa jliu bfir xeot .; scramble) of Barricr Knob iri the Darran Mount iins •i'f Rcdland. ihe weather -vas perfect, rny day h ad bepn great and foolishly I was on my c-m, FuII of i exu ber ance. I poundeddown the steep snow ;,!ope. ignoring M the signs of instability. Sudacnly, \ plunged my Ixxu into thc sott snov . u.c slope cr^ked * m|jtig slab-)' -v uid i.-.- sbot away m ftmi of me did I. " '• t > Had I stU'Vbied fallen lorward i would hav c I been at|h4;bottom of|i#ldff>dfe;»d, oi hijtjfpci, on my own. hours from any hope of rescue. I have never taken 'the Hglrtly siare. | ^ Take heed Fof those who work on the mountain, one of the most fiu stratin|Things i rsople ignoring adv~.cc. The Whakafii|a Vi^&f;','Caafte i&\6tkn seven days a week, with u p -t o-dttfe mbunt a; rf weather forec^s, volcano status and track information. The j^ffiartment of Conserv also publishes brocl^ps on walks which outlineessential equipment ^Warry, release weekly track and weather repons to the media and broadcast up-to-date track reports on local radio. And still reports cbme ifi of poorly-clad trampers on high level walks, of neff misses. What hasn't helped is the Indian summer: with endless fine days the mountains have looked incredibly inviting. At this time;pf year sections of the famed Tongariro Crossing are iced up with snow lying in some hollows. Conditions be severe even on fine days. , "It's unfortunate that some people applflrOTrnmer yision to winter conditions," laments Dave, "on the best of summer days the crossing is one of the walking gems of New Zealand. Every year more than 40,000 find out what a great walk it is. What they tend to forget is that it is a mountain walk, rising to 1870 metres at Red Crater. At this time of year ice makes parts of the walk treacher014s, and southerly winds and low temperatures Turn to Page 7

h There was nothing but the blite, heavens above to relieve the frigid glare of the ice, the cold glitter of the snows, and the dreary tints of the frowning fire-scorched rocks. We now seemed to be in a new world, where solitude reigned supreme, and where Nature, casting aside her most radiant charms, looked stern and awe inspirin £ in the mantle ofice and snow. " - J Kerry -Nichols' description of an ascen ofMt Ruapehu, 1884.

Mt Ruapehu ... a safe mountain?

FROM PAGE 6 ' bring an increased risk of hypothermia. The climb from the head of the Mangatepopo Valley to the saddle can be an accident waiting to happen, and yet still they come into the visitor centre wanting to walk." Additional hazard While the current icy conditions are cause for concern, as we move into winter an additional hazard will keep Dave Rothschild and ski patrollers on their toes. A bountiful snow winter brings back the much-needed dollars to the»ski industry but keeps patrollers alert for snow buildup and the danger of avalanche. Every winter hundreds of hours are spent reducing the likelihood of avalanche onto ski slopes, with warnings going out to those who venture beyond the skifield boundaries. Recent accidents on Mt Ruapehu will not make me stay away from the mountain. I love the mountains too much. They will, however, make me cautious, hesitant even, about venturing onto ice without either a rope belay or a clear, safe runout should I slip. They will make me consider brushing up on self-arrest techniques I learnt years ago and have not practised since.