'Perfect Pipiriki' early nostalgia

Ruapehu Bulletin, Volume 7, Issue 336, 15 May 1990, Page 10

'Perfect Pipiriki' early nostalgia

In fairly recent times the Wanganui River has been in the news with respect to the advent of the Whanganui National Park, with its southern boundary at Pipiriki.

In this battered world that we seem to be using up as fast as we can, it is gratifying that an area of this potential is to be protected for the benefit of the nation. In bygone years this river was a major tourist attraction but since the end of the Houseboat and Pipiriki House era, this rather remote but beautiful part of the country seems to have been bypassed. For many years Hatrick's, of Wanganui, ran a river service of paddle steamers, which ( were later replaced by motor vessels - the inaugural trip run in 1891. Tourists boarded the river boat at Cherry Grove Landing, Taumarunui, and covered a l distance of 50km to the I Houseboat where the I first night was spent. This floating hotel, built to accommodate 40 people, was moored against the west bank of the river at Maeraekowhai near the outfall of the Ohura river. Even in this isolated area an air of formality prevailed and guests dressed for dinner in elj egant clothes including, I imagine, long doeskin gloves. The Houseboat was later moved downstream to the Retaruke I River near its junction ' with the Wanganui I River at Whakahoro. Second day The second day the journey was consider-

ably longer as the boat travelled 95km to Pipiriki. The hotel, Pipiriki House situated well above flood level, had long white balconies and twin gables rather resembling a Tudor building. An attractive variety of tropical plants and fish were housed in a conservatory just inside the main entrance which, on the outside was graced by stone steps and Grecian urns displaying more exotic plants. This charming hotel reeked of class and everything was carried out on a grand scale, guests being attired in dinner suits and long gowns. The third day saw the tourists boarding the steamer for the last leg of the journey - a distance of 85km to Wanganui. On this step the boat would make a stop at the small village of Jerusalem, where, in 1884, a mission station was founded by a very outgoing French nun, Mother Mary Aubert. The most striking feature of this picturesque village is the tall white steeple of the chapel which towers above meeting house and cottages. Jerusalem enjoys a mild climate and an abundance of fruit grows in this valley, which, by the way, is only 30 metres above sea level. There are three other villages fur-

ther downstream but they are known by their Maori names - Ranana (London), Koroniti (Corinth), and Atene (Athens). Isolated Apart from the river service being a Jourist attraction it was the lifeline for farmers in these isolated places as it was their only means of receiving stores and mail. However, when the river was in flood ther were no stores and no mail so the farmers were obliged to keep a well-stocked pantry. The Houseboat bumed down in 1933, Pipiriki House in 1959, and about the same time Hatrick's terminated their service thus ending a unique and romantic era. In the 60's, Jerusalem was very much in the news when a commune was established with the writer and poet, James K. Baxter, its leader. The death of this man in 1972 left an almost irrevocable gap in the lives of his followers. 1200 people invaded this tiny village to attend the funeral of a man who was held in very high esteem by devoted and loyal adherents. Hemi, as he was known by the Maori people, was a convert to the Roman Catholic faith and a Christian in a real sense. Many drug addicts, drop-outs of society and escapists from who-knows-what, owe their recovery to his influence during the time that his commune was home to them. An Turnpage 11

'Perfect Pipiriki'

From page 10 alcoholic himself, he was possessed of a great understanding toward his fellow outcasts of society and helped many a despairing person to a better way of life. men of his calibre are, like the kokaka, few in number and it is only since his death that people have come to .know of his many attributes. The following is an extract from his essay, "The Church and the Alcoholic": "There is a lot of truth in the old saying that God watches over drunks and fools - though I am not wholly in favour of the implication that alcoholics are stupid people - but at least He seems to stay very close to us, perhaps because this massive intervention is necessary to bring about our cure when we have travelled beyond human help." Wanganui river My one and only trip on the Wanganui river was with the Tongariro Tramping Club on a brilliantly fine February day. We left Raetihi

early by bus for Retaruke a distance of about 120km, to board the steamer. On this occasion I well remember being one of the carsick passengers as travel in those days over unsealed and winding roads left much to be desired. After several hours travelling we arrived at Wade's Landing where we climbed aboard the river steamer midst excitement and much chatter. The landing eonsisted only of a cleared portion of river bank with a large and unstable looking stake to which the ferry was tied. The scenery between there and Pipiriki was of great beauty. The virgin bush of majestic trees and graceful pongas must surely have been the home of Tane, who, according to Maori legend, was the God of the forest. We made a stop on the way to have lunch and to investigate some small caves, and I well remember the clear calls of the Tui and Bellbird. During the summer months the river runs

very low and on several occasions we felt the boat bumping on the bottom. Here the crew would spring into action with long manuka poles which they plunged overboard and after a mighty heave or two the boat inched its way into deeper water. Throughout the journey there was a fairly consistent pattern of battling turbulent rapids and then gliding into smooth waters. The most treacherous rapids on the river are said to be the Ngaporo about 10km above Pipiriki and these provided much excitement as we battled through the deafening roar. A little later when we were in cairn water and nearing Pipiriki some of us dived in and swam the remainder of the distance while the boat made its way along the broad silent river and tied up at the Pipiriki wharf. The journey took most of the day and a gathering of rather sunburnt dishevelled people boarded the bus for the return trip to Raetihi. Ngairi James