Compost for beating winter garden chills

Ruapehu Bulletin, Volume 6, Issue 287, 23 May 1989, Page 8

Compost for beating winter garden chills

Gardening with Bea

With the first of the winter snows showing on the peaks of the mountain, it seems that the warm summer and mild autumn weather we have all so enjoyed is drawing to a close.

Almost overnight the wealth of colour in the garden has disappeared, and after their valiant efforts all summer the palnts are ready to settle down for their winter rest. This is an important period in the garden as the plants need fhat period of rest in order to regain their strength and vigour to perform well next season, and like us they.preferr to rest in comfort. The dead top growth on all the perennials should be removed and if the clumps have become too large they can now be lifted and divided. Replant only those pieces showing healthy growth and a good root system, discarding any parts with dead wood and aged, damaged, or unhealthy roots. Firm in the pieces thoroughly and if the ground is at all dry water well in. Provided all top growth on the dahlias has died down these can now be lifted, dusted with an insecticide and stored in an airy place in a shed. Gladioli corms can be lifted and treated in the same way. Discard any pulpy or unhealthy looking corms, they will not perform well next year and diseased corms stored with the healthy ones may spread disease through the stock. Most shrubs will appreciate a little attention with a sharp pair of secateurs, any dead wood or dieback being

cut back to healthy growth. All cuts should be made on an angle about a quarter of an inch above a healthy bud or leaf node, and the cut ends of any thick stems dressed with pruning paste. If you haven't pruning paste on hand, a good smear of Vaseline will help to protect the cut ends from attack by disease spores. Your roses will also benefit from this treatment. Dead growth and dieback being removed and all dead leaves especially those affected with Black Spot or rust should be cleared from the ground at the base of the plant and burned. These diseases can winter over in the ground ready to awaken for nenewed attacks in the spring. Other than a general tidy-up of the rose bushes I avoid too much pruning at this stage of the year. This tends to promote new growth which will only be killed off by winter frosts, causing distress to the plant and lowering its resistance to disease. I shorten very long stems by about a third. This helps to prevent the winter gales from rocking the bush too much causing gaps in the soil at the base of the plant through which frost can penetrate to the roots. When the bushes are quite dormant a spray of winter oil (including the ground at the base

of the bushes) will help to combat overwintering diseases. All weeds and grasses should be cleared away from between all the plants and bushes and the ground lightly forked over, especially where it has become impacted. This will enable the ground and the newly forming roots on the plants to breathe. Leaves from deciduous trees and soft weeds will make excellenl compost but hard weeds like dock, buttercup, couch and bindweed should be discarded and, if possible, burned. If, like us, you have not yet planted youi spring bulbs, it is not too late although il they are beginning to shoot this should not be left any longer. Narcissi types - daffodils, .jonquils, etc should be planted about 10cm deep, with hyacinths and tulips about 15cm. As they grow the bulbs tend to rise in the ground and a good planting depth is beneficial. A little Blood and Bone fertillizer worked into the soil at the time of planting will help to nourish and encourage growth. Before you make tracks for the house to plug in that electric blanket remember - your plants would like a warm winter bed too. A good mulch of compost, old straw, leaves, dried lawn clippings, or a mixture of all of these together with a dressing of Blood and Bone, will be appreciated.