IN THE GARDEN

Rotorua Morning Post, Volume 2, Issue 362, 25 October 1932, Page 3

IN THE GARDEN

DISBUDDING NECESSARY FOR SUCCESSFUL (ROSE GROWING. TRANSPLANTING; VEGETABjLES. Warm, dry weather is ideal for getting rid of weeds. The hoe run through on a dry day will account for most of the seedling weeds. It is a good plan to loosen the surface soil ronnd newly-planted trees and shrubs. If any of them show signs of being twisted ahout with the wind secure them to a stout stake. » Roses are making strong growth just now, and are liable to he attached hy aphis. At the firsfe sign of the pest spray with "Black Leaf 40." Phlox Drummondi. Phlox Drttmmondi may he said to he the prinee of annuals. The 'plants produce a blaae of colour, and are excellent for edgings or bedding purposes, and provide useful eut flowers. It is doubtful if such a wide range of colours is to he found in any other garden plant, and the flowers possess a delicate fragrance, which adds to the charms of the garden on a summer evening. Many home gardeners seem to exnerience trouble in success-

fully raising Phlox Drummondi. There should, however, he no difficulty in getting the seeds through. When sowing it should be remembered that seed should he sown, not buried. Phlox seed just wants covering with the smallest quantity of soil, and the sped bed should be firmer prior to sowing. After sowing mulch the surface with a thin layer of finely-sifted stable manure or lawn clippings. This is necessary to keep the surface soil cool and moist, prevent caking, and enahle the young seedlings to push' through. N-eglect to sujply this mulch is the commonest cause of failure. While the seeds germinate freely the young seedlings do not seems strong enough to push their way through a soil that is even slightly baked on the surface, and so perish in the struggle. A good method of sowing the seeds is to get some fine sandy soil or clean sand, in which should be mixed a handful of a good artificial fertiliser, and place this in a flat dish, such as a milk dish, and mix the seed th'oroughly through it. After mixing thoroughly sow the mixture, just covering it with a thin layer of fine soil, and firm the whole with a board or the back of the rake. By this means the seed is sown very thinly, and very little thinning will be necessary afterwards, while hy the time the seed germinates the fertiliser will be dissolved in the soil, and available for plant food. Phlox Drummondi has of recent years been greatly improved, and a packet of mixed seed will give innUmerable shades of colour. Hollyhocks. There are few plants that add more to the charm of a garden than the

nollyhock does. Grown in clumps amid shrubs and trees, or in heds with a shrubbery for background, the stately stems well clothed with richly-colour-ed flowers look very beautiful. Those who have establisbed plants free from the dreaded rust disease" should treat them well. Old plants wintered in the beds or borders should have the surface soil around them removed, and good, fresh soil and rotted manure mixed placed on them as a surface dressing. Strong seedlings from previous sowings can be planted in selected positions any time now. It is essential that the plants grow freely and strongly right from the start, so that the positions for hollyhocks should be well prepared beforehand, and if the soil is heavy it should be lightened hy the addition of sand, stable manure, leaf mould or anything that will keep it open. Disbudding Roses. Roses are now making ' active growth, and the buds are forming rapidly. All rose growers are aware of the necessity for disbudding roses if those large, well-formed flowers which are the admiration of the visitors to the shows are desired. There are two forms of disbudding recommended by experts — the removal of flower buds, and the thinning out of wood shoots. The flower buds generally appear in threes, one central ; bud and two smaller ones alongside it. The removal of the two side buds as soon as they are large enough to handle concentrates the sap in the centre one which then develops into a larger and hetter-formed flower. The bud grows away more rapidly, is more vigorous, and therefore better ahle to resist the attacks in insect pests, such as aphides. Many home gardeners are afraid to disbud their roses for fear that the harvest of blooms will only he a small one, hut a dozen well-developed flowers will make a better display on the tahle than twenty or thirty inferior ones. The flowers can also be cut on longer stems, and, provided the plants are kept growing and the flowers are always cut, removed at a dormant hud, fresh growths will quickly make their appearance, and give another crop of hlooms. With regaxd to the removal of wood shoots, this is frequently overdone. The plants require all the foliage they can develop under local climatic conditions, not only to shade the soil, hut to elaborate sap and for respiratory purposes. The removal of wood shoots, therefore, should be confined, and strictly limited to those weak growths which threaten to cross each other, crowd upi the centre of the plant, or tend to grow in unwanted positions, and all of which restrict the admission of light and air. These shoots will rarely give flowers worth while, and if left will only be ungainly branches b'y the end of autumn, and requiring removal at the annual winter pruning. Transplanting Vegetables. Practically all vegetables with the •exc-eption of carrots, parsnips, and Iong-rooted beet may be successfully transplanted. The sooner they are replanted after lifting the better. Before lifting them give a good watering along the row, and loosen them up with fork. The less injury done to

the roots the sooner they will get over the move. The most satisfactory method is undoubtedly hy puddlmg them in. Make the hole, with atrowel for preference, and place the plant in position, adding a small quantity of soil, just sufficient to keep the yonng plant in place. Then fill the hole with water, and when it has drained away fill in with fine soil. By this method all the roots are surrounded by moist soil, which will keep moist nntil the roots have started to function. Do not attempt to plant with'out a line, as crooked rows spoil the whole appearance of a garden. Allow plenty of room hetween the rows to make hoeirig easy, and for such things as require earthing up extra space must he provided. This space need not be wasted. As soon as the earthingup has been done Isttuces may he planted in the hollows. These like the shelter and shade which they v/ill get between the other vegetables. Success with Radishes. Good radishes are delightfully crzsp and succulent and sweet in flavour, solid right through and of fair size and fine appearance. All these points are easily secured, provided that the grower understands exactly what to do. Although the radish penetrates but a few inches into the soil, the soil must be deeply dug. The breaking up of the ground keeps it sweet and friahle, and makes it a fine rooting medium for the plants. Th'e soil should also be rich, but not rich through heavy dressings of rank and fresh manure. The ideal place for radishes would he the old celery trench or last season's onion bed, hut any corner of the garden where the soil is in good heart will do. Should the ground not appear good isnough, however, it may be manured in the usual way by digging in some well-rooted old manure. Spent hops or a suitable dressing of market garden manure raked in hefore the seed is sown will greatly help. The first crops of the year must get "all the sun possible, hut during the hotter weather a position somewhat shaded from the sun should he chosen, as otherwise the roots will be hot and tough. For early sowings in friahle or sandy soils the long-rooted kinds are prohably the better, but for summer and in heavy soils the stump or turnip-rooted sorts will give the best results. Seed should be sown every fortnight to keep up a succession.