Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 6, Issue 249, 9 February 1917, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

By IDA M

A SAILOIt DRESS FOR SEASIDE WEAR. Dress of the moment is developing all sorts of little fashions that do not cost much money to carry out-, but that need a little time to think out. Soino of the new hats are quite distracting in their prettiness, and yet they aro very much simpler in style than were hats of years ago, when heavily-made bows of ribbon and masses of trimming were affected. Among to-day s hats of charm and beauty are many that are trimmed with nothing moro elaborate than a small spray ol roses or a bunch of fruit, a single quill or a rosette of tulle.

Ihe sailor hat reigns paramount, and thi<i, ot course, carries with it a certain simplicity of style that is verv charming, the all-round shape of the sailor suiting all types. Blouses, like hats, offer a wide choice and among these, again, the sailor fashion flourishes, and is certainly one of the most fascinating mades. .You can have your new blouse cut oij sailor lines, with open neck and the characteristic big collar, or you can have your blouse buttoned right up to your ens and right

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under your chin. \ou can have a turned-back collar of lingerie, or you can have a very small Toby trill, lying flat and sticthed to tho top edge of a straight collar-band; vou can have a Medici collar or a Puritanical fichu. The main thing is to choose the style that suits you, and always to wear wfiatis fresh and dainty.

The old mode of frilling tho skirt of a dress in popular again, and for this purpose ribbon is more used than muslin. Frills are superseded sometimes by bauds of silk, which are sewn to dress skirts of various materials —sometimes serge, sometimes net. Linen frocks also are trimmed witn crossway bands, which aro easy to "get up" and form an effective trimming.

A pretty sailor frock for linen or tussore is illustrated. Here we have a nice, full skirt, with frill at the waist, rising from two little cords, and tucks lielow, and a sailor bodice, with characteristic collar finished witn a fairly deep hem. I'lio sleeves are gathered into cuffs at tho wrists, and a tie is knotted under the collar. This is just the frock lor seaside wear. Worn with this becoming frock is a big sailor hat, trimmed in an original way with ribbon, crossed in front, .and arranged in two little groups of loops on the brim. A CHILD'S "TUB" FROCK. A long-waisted blouse-frock, with short, kilted skirt, suitableJor a girl of from six years upwards, is very happily illustrated iir the. design shown. The skirt might be of different material from tho blouse, or ot similar stuff. It

might he of navy serge, tor instance, ami the hloiise ol white picjiuj or linen, or the <oilljll1■ te frock might l>e carried out in washable clacked zephyr, uncii. or tu.ssore. Tito skirt i-, iirrangod in wait', sliarply marked l>ox pleat*. and h is no placket, the waist I. ■in": enough M render :ihv pl.iek t iinneccsMiry. It is luiti.ineil to :i liodiew lining, and tlie !:ill r

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Imagination can readily suggest ideas •.if a pretty and practical kind for the development of the frock. The blouse is built on the .American principle and is quite independent of the skirt. It is drawn into a straight band of its own material, and is buttoned from neck to end. The sleeves are drawn into cuffs, and a loose, easy collar trims the neck, and should be finished, like the cuffs, I" It and front, with stitching. The blou-e need not be lined, but the belt must be of double material.

There are in all eight pieces of the paper pattern of the frock. They comprise half the blouse (back and front cut. in one), half the collar, one cuff, lialf the waist-band, half the front of ■•kirt, half the back of skirt, half the front bodice lining, half the back of same. Al! these pieces arp indicated on the diagrams.

To make tho frock of one material, about 2\ yards of 42-inch stuff will bo needed, or for the blouse alone, lj- yards will suffice, and tor the skirt 1 yard or 1.1 yard . The bodice lining can be cut from \ yard of 3G-inch sateen or lon<»■cloth.

Fold the dress material lengthwise, and lay on it the pattern pieces as indicated in the diagram, placing the straight edges of back of blouse, of collar. and belt to the fold, against which also place the skirt patterns. The senilis of the skirt are at each side, not hack and front. Seam the skirt at the notches (see diagram) and make the pleats (the lines on the diagram indicate these) after the material has been hemmed at the bottom. Mount the skirt to a double band of its own material, and make buttonholes in this latter, sewing corresponding flat buttons to the hemmed waist of the bodicelining wiic-n the latter has lieen stitched together. Provide the back of the bodice with buttons and buttonholes, and turn in and face the neck and armholes. A small illustration is given of the bndico lining, indicating the material folded and the straight edge of front laid to the fold. The back is cut out in duplicate. The bodice Ls seamed on the shoulders and at under-arms. The blouse is also seamed at underarms, and each sleeve (cut in one with the blouse) has an under-scam. Turn in the fronts of blouse, hemming or facing them, make buttonholes in the right front and .sew buttons on the left, father the blouse at waist to the belt, arranging the edge of blouse between lie'.t and lining, and stitch the belt finally all round and provide it with a button and button-hole in front. The ends of the sleeves are stitched Mwcen cuffs and linings, and the collar is stiched to the neck on the inside, and is, of course, finished off neativ before be in"- attached.

Another suggestion concerning the waist of tho blouse is to hem it and insert an elastic, and merely sew the belt I ghtly to it, so that it can be easily removed for laundry purpos«es and the waist ot the blouse be straightened outfor tho tub. Again, if preferred, a band at the end of tho blouse could be dis-' pensed with altogether, and the blouse hang loo^e.

Further, the bodice lining might lie abandoned and the skirt and blouse be stitched together, rendering the frock i f the one-piece kind. The pattern it" will be seen, is an adaptable one. and. therefore, very useful.

THE HAIR IX SUMMER. It is easy to understand why tlio hac'r needs a little attention in hot weather. During the warm months the average woman is out of doors more often than during cold weather, and her scalp is exposed to road-dust and soil more frequently than at other seasons; she olten goes bare-headed when playing tennis or golf, allowing the sun's rays to scorch the delicate fibres of her hair and causing the scalp to sweat and moist dandruff to accumulate; wherefore it is necessary to counteract the ill likely to arise from summer effects on tiiu hair by careful, timely, and appropriate treatment. If this be given, the exposure to the sun and air may have an exceedingly beneficial effect on the hair and scalp, for sun-baths, judiciously taken, act as a. tonic to the hair and give It new life. TO WASH ORGAXDIE. I hero should be no need to tell even the amateur laundress that thin fabrics, such as organdie, require no heavy stiftening in the washing and getting-np. It is not always necessary even to add a light stiffening, but when such is adv sable, let it be made of gum arable. To prepare the stiffening, add two talilispoonfuls of prepared gum nrabic water to a quart of lukewarm water, and dip the organdie, after it has been washed arid dried, into this. Roll 't into a tight roll and allow it to get partly dry, tliui iron the organdie on the wrung side TWO HINTS. Simple milk pudd/ngs should not lie put into a very hot oven or the milk may curdle. * * * Save tlit l liquor in which meat h been boiled and use it for the foundation of vegetable soup. TO PICK EL WALXUTS. W a.nuU t:i be pickled should be gathered u lion the sun is on them and before tl.i lire liard b which may bo known 11_\ running a pin into them. Put the walnuts into strong silt and water for nino days titir them twice •; day. and change ilie wat.-r every three day*; then place tlieni on a liair sieve

mhl lit tin-ill rem::iu in the ;iir uiiiil 111«>y turn Mirk. Put tin-in into stone mi-, and let tlii-iii stand until cold; the.ii lx.il some vinegar. pour it over tin- Malum-. itn<l k-t it In conic cold. Hoil up tlir vim-gar tliret- time- Tn all. repeating ilat pro'C-» descrbed. and letting the vinegar become cold between each boiliriL'. finally. tie down t!ie waliiut■> with a Madder and let llici'i stand three lil'»Mt 11-. Then make a pickle as follows:—To r.vcrv two quart- of vinegar allow half ail iiiilire each ol mace and cloves, l>la< k" pepper. and ginger, and tun ounces of -.ill Itoil the vinegar for ten minute*, pour it hot on tlit- walnut-, and t : e> t.heiii over with paper and a ''ladder. A rnoriiHT i-oi: TIIH WEKK. Tn nil i- violated hy falseTiood, and -t i,i i\ lie equally outraged '• v -'leir-c. - A i n in >aii.