Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 6, Issue 243, 19 January 1917, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

By IDA KELLER •

A SI MMER CAPE. Summer neckwear is more varied than ever, and curiously enough cmbraces as many high collars as low oil 's. Ihe high collar, in fact, in one or another of its numerous forms, is one of the most fashionable ot dress

accessories, and is now plain, now pleated, and made of pure white materials, such as muslin and fine lawn. Where a Inxlice is cut somewhat low at the neck, a pretty addition is a high collar of muslin, parted in front and tied with a narrow i;-:nd of black velvet ribbon; or the collar may be omitted and a band of black velvet ribbon or moire surround the throat. Even in summer there are chilly days to be reckoned with, and smart little wraps must be provided to rr.eet the needs of the occasion. For the neck, the smartest protections are dog-col-lars of black or coloured ostrich feathers, finished with bows of satin ribbon. These give a very chic air to a toilette, and are not expensive, £s lid purchasing a handsome little ruffle, or 12s lid will buy a longer one, finished with tassels. Nothing at the pri<e i, so effective as these feather ruffles, and many women prefer the shorter to the longer oils, as they are newer in style ana take the place of the fur collars of the past season. Wraps of n more important kind are taffetas capes of more or less length. Til ese are very useful and dressy looking, and, I*>ing quite loose-fitting, admit of a crochet-wool waist-coast being worn beneath for motoring or other occasions, it tho air is cool. The summer cane illustrated mav

interest tlie homa dressmaker, for it is simplicity itself, and yet very practical and fashionable. Th,? paper pattern is in three pieces, and includes half the eapj proper, half the neck frill, and a quarter of the frill that edges the cape at the bottom. The quantity of material, 44 to 46 inches wide, required for the ca.pe. is '2l yards. This material should lie doubled and the pattern pieces laid on it as shown in tho diagram, the straight edge of neck ruffie being laid to the fold, so that the whole ruffle is cut out in one piece. The other pieces are cut out in duplicate. There will be ample from the waste of material (s.eo dotted lines 011 diagram) wlierefrom to cut the re.it of the frill, which will bo hemmed and gathered along the top. Tho frill at the neck is of double material, and the width of the p.ittorn allows for thi<. The mat. rial when folded double is gathered either at that part only that will come at the back of the neck, or along the entire'length, and the two edges should fir ally be bound with a erossway strip of silk. When tho cape has been cut out it must. b« seamed at the back, and two little darts must be made at each side of the neck: the fronts must be faced or hemmed, so also must the bottom of the cape, and the nock most have a nent little facing. The frill at the neck must eventually, when made up. be stitched in place and two ribbon strings or cords should be added to tie t'lo fronts.

Unless the cap" N lined 'end as .1 lining .Japanese silk may be recommended) the raw edges of the back > am must be protected from fraying by having a binding of sarcenet.

A IIO.MK CI.I >.i ROOM. Women with n spare room at thendisposal, and who arc ;uixioi:s to mak.' ii. little extra money. may lie to hoar of a gehome that otmnvd to and was siic'.v-'hsfij'.ly earned out bv a <je;illewotnan (K-cupyiiiji a iioii-e id a rather hijiher rental than h.-r mean* warranted. Slip »!t> loth to break i:j> l'.<'" old home. and. Ihereloro, set ahoitl thinking out possible ways and ni -atis '.vltprtiiy -h." could retain tin- home and nt tin- sanK' time make a little pro;;t to cover expenses. Ilav iii; a largo spa"? «itf !ig-ron;n. flip id'Ai oeeurred to is. r to Ift it a- an evening elub-room t.» we'l-bred i. r :r!.s pi tiic neighbourhood. and tho id'-a, riod oiit, proved a <iiT >t 'irv »«. ''he mh«. ription for ea. It •ji--i:i'" , r was lint o tritle. Imt as many niemh- rs join-d t'.o little lintne-elub, tl •• to' tl was an iinre aide addition tit!" '•nia.l ineon.c (;i the hostess. Many auothi'f woman mi:dit i'dl >vr the idea -ii'.'Ui-tcd. It is ii.t.i'e pi>-|iV-it thore are many girls in evorv n i'jhh- iirhood who would he u. ' 1 of the us-* of a nt.-e c!ill»tootit itt a private house, tor al iiotr." th.ie i- r j always a spare s'tting-roor.i ir. when pills' can elritf t nnrestcain'dly to lip ir fr ion'ls and f."d e°rtiin that tao\ aio not tki-turbing other men lets of the family. The hi >t cevering for the n r.- ... a fliili-room is linoleum. tt i -,i;.ivd 'i imitation of stained hoard*. Ihi< <an 1.. washed over withet-t any troidn" fiivi loeks very ni"o. whereas a-tie.l stained L'jarJs hei ote.e rather —

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iv.*, as tiie n taiii wears oft scon with constant tread. A few rugs should bo strewu about ovet the linoleum. EMERGENCY IDEAS FOR THE TABLE. I'. r emergency use in the kitchen, few things are more helpful than a supply ol cracker biscuits. With t knowledge of how to make the most of these, the resourceful housewife is able to u->e them as ;i substitute for dinner rolls to servo with soup or with the clicce ;:nd salad course, instead of bread sticks or cheese straws. They are also capable of being transformed into dainty morsels to serve with the sweet course at lunchc-on, and may offer infinite variety lor the afternoon tea-table. Especially appropriate to serve with salads are cracker biscuits c< nibined with cheese gratings, and for afternoon tea some pretty effects can be achieved by decorating the biscuits with confectioner's jam or jelly, using a tube for tho purpose, such as is employed ; n the fanciful arrangement of whipped « ream— which latter, indeed, may he added to the jam with delicious results. A rosette of moistened cream cheese can be piped in the centre of any small, round, plain biscuit and a dot of sßff red jelly placed thereon. A square biscuit can have a border of the softened cheese piped around, leaving the inner surface of the biscuit uncovered. This can be sprinkled with chopped nuts or almonds, with a dot of jelly in the centre, or the entire surface may be spread with stiff jellv, held in place by the border of cheese. A novel id«i, again, followed by certain housewives, is to mix softened cheese with fruit preserve, ; nd pipe this coloured and flavoured chee.se in any | referred way on plain cracker biscuits. Unco given the idea of how to use plain, crisp biscuits in out of the common ways, the housewife of resource can easily work out for herself variations on the suggested the.nie. and lie prepared with dainty emergency ideas for the afternoon tea-table. FROCKS FOR CHILDREN. A mother with several l'ttle girls to dross gives a practical hint on altering an outgrown frock. "It is a very easy matter," she says, "to enlarge a child's dress all over by inserting a panel in front, from top to bottom, and setting a band of the same material around the bet torn of the skirt. A wide collar, so deep that •t leaches to the tops of the sleeves, is a pretty ornament, and another suggestion is to insert a band of material along the shoulders, after the fashion ef extended epaulets, and thus allow tho frock to drop, front an 1 back, when it is advisable to do so." This idea may be helpful to other mothers with little girls to clothe. <-lie of the simplest and most useful fashions for a little girl's school frock is the two-piece model, the skirt pleated and the bodice cut in the popular, straight, coat-like fashion reaching n little below the hip*. The bodice should have no sleeves, and be cut under the :• ruts like a suspender dress. With this, the little girl can wear different shirthlouses of silk and linen, wl icli will make for variety combined with economy. I

Two excellent little frocks for a girt of live or six years of age are illustrated. I'igure "A" works out well in plaid iir black-and-white check cotton, and is made with a long-waistod bodice and flounce skirt. The beit. cuffs, and yoke at the neck should be of plain linen. The frock fasten* at the

; . t!ii- Initio;:* ::i iVuiil '.ciiij: im'icly ntal. i '■ U" kiit.-il .si.irt ami •nilor suitnliK- .or limn; or tiio .-itit-jiiod M :■ !i .:n,i-r i.0.1k-e, i(ii;:)!t !>< of navy - ami :lt«- .n r-.-y i i;| whit.' duck or '.villi brai l or . i j !•'•!»ii 4511 t!:C mM.ir ami mils. TO V" MIT K.N 'lil K HA VPS. i I'i.r i• I who wi»!tes i > n:.ik.t> lu-r .! • 111 s •: - letter an i Itvtiv taperinf: in < !'- I !,' !. >lic;>!d siit'.'ii tin ni uitli warm u.sti- it 111ivo u.l ami t!u n . i tii-. in w:tli a lnnu'. >■"«' -iroko Imtn tin l .1 wt.-- t" ciuis nt ti:.» She 1 -■!n11.!<I then take iviit littLvr < p::ratoI |\ !.. iuim :i t!io tiit:niit ami f >r. linyer .if • tii.i i ilicr iiaml, pirn ii t!:*• rm«i«*r-ti|»i | p-iitly ;.t til? -.di'<. itiii! at ti• same J ii• tl*:ivv tiio lin^i';-in;t Sphii t!ii* hand. ] A *• ii!1I>ll> i e. ij • for v. liiti»:iin<r the ! amis I otlilMf it lino r ill c fill il i:f .i :!!nr. iui «*, in.iioy. .-ml lav. ni!cr-w-.t----it. i.r i tiii-1" ptrfntiio. nii\.<T together. \\ !:.-m ;1.0 trim's an' very red-looking, it ililii.ti't to lintn wlr.t.' by vi'|.n> mean.-, i.ut temporary improve- ; !i i t n:ay U (f?t'< to! I.y holdinj: tit:' ip fr* in ti'.'ie to t:rt:i"*. II r*

produces a very much nior'j delimit appearance of the thin. SHINY SILK. Sponging with weak tea, .r with a liquid niiid© by steeping ivy leaves ii» boiling water. will sometimes remove thj shiny appearance, caused by rubbing, that mars the look of I lack silk that, lias hern a good deal worn. The silk should afterwards be pressed with a moderat lv hot iron n-ed over a damp cloth. WASHING AN EIDER-DOWN". l'hi following method of wa.*hing an eiderdown quilt is recommended hv r. liousewil'.'. A low i lie tablespoonful of powdered borax to two ot M>lt so lp: mix tlioroughly, then add boiling water gradually, stirring until the mixture is liquid. Add this to aliout a third ef a tubful ef cold water, let the soiled article soak in it tor two hours or longer (all night, if very dirty), tlun wash it in the mixture and rinse several times in clear, eolj water. Hang th' quilt in a windy position to dry. A THOCf.'HT FOR THE WEEK. Tt is not merely what a man does, hilt what he tries to d<. that indicates his r.nl worth, tnd is an exhibit ot his true spirit. I.ord Bacon proposed to have rewards given to in. n who made experiments in the direction oi desirable discoveries, because tl.eir verv mistake might help others to final success. Or, as an old divine .-ays. "An ingenious miss is of morn credit than a bundling casualty." It is letter to try, even iP you do not succeed, than not even try to succeed.