SAMAIAI, PAPUA.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 5, Issue 227, 17 November 1916, Page 4 (Supplement)

SAMAIAI, PAPUA.

(By E. O'S. in the "Australasian )

More than one person who ought to know has described Samarai as the most beautiful little island in the world. I have not seen enough of the world to argue the right or wrong "f this, but feel sure the description cannot be far out. If Robert Hichens would on'y t:ike his holiday thereabouts. one might hope to get an idea of this Jittlc "island of dreams" and its surroundigs, its bluest of blue skies, deep green waters that pale off to crystal clearness inshore, reefs of red, blue, pink, and white coral, of shapes and sizes innumerable, and its cocoanuts that wave their palmy branches in the breeze and fringe its creamy beaches. The coastline from Port Moresby to Samarai, varied only by an occasional mission statin, or a native village, rises in four distinct tiers, from mode;-? ate hills to mountains, which lose themselves in cloudland. Reefs right and left and all around keep the man on the bridge ever on the look out for bumps, while islands, atolls, and more islands, ranging in area from a quarter of an acre to many miles, thickly covered with tropical growth and the revenue-bringing coeoanut, are dotted all over this section of the map. Samarai (or Dinner Island), on the edge of the south-eastern division Papua, was one time the headquarters of the London Missionary Society, but the Government, a good many years ago, made an exchange, and handed over to them Kwato. which is ha If an hour awav, and equally beautiful. W hv the settlement should have been made on the island, and not on the mainland, is not stated; most likely it was for safety against the one-time wild and still woolly Papuans of the south-east division. The area of the island is but 56 acres; you can walk across in about 10 minutes ,and round by the coral path in under 30. The revenue exceeds that of the capital. Port Moresby, and being on the direct rente from China, and, until war broke out, a port of call for the German mailboats, its importance at present looms larger than its size.

With a population of less than 100, Samarai supports four stores, three hotels (one gets very thirsty in these parts, and, though all drinks are sixpence, the drinking vessel is smaller in capacity than the ordinary tumbler </f the temperate zone), a white and a native hospital, a Custom house, Postoflice, and savings bank, a branch t1 the Bank of New South Wales, a doctor, a church, a mission school and .i rectory; while its resident magistrate abides in a bungalow on the summit o r the island, where the Commonwealth flag waves in the breeze, and seems glad to be doing it. Dart Street, coral pathed, is lined with the bungalows ot Samarai's residents —cool-looking retreats behind hedges of the gorgeous croton, widely veranda lied and shaded, and boks out upon the recreation reserve, with its two tennis courts and cricket ground and its splendid shade trees. Also in a conspicuous pla-e is monument to a former Governor, wh > met with a tragic death not so very many years ago. But even in Arcada it seems there must be a gaol, though this one is quite an attractive place of residence. The pathway leading up to its main entrance is lined with erotons, end within the compound are more of these varicoloured shrubs that are so much ui evidence in the tropics. One may enter without .knocking, to be met by •« native warder in Chid'ey-cut uniform of navy blue serge bound with yellow, who nurses his six months old offspring, and who will tell you that the convicttenants are away all day working out of doors, coming home "close-up sunnv go down," when they are locked up for the night. On this particular day they were busy, in sullis of what was once white, with the broad arrow imprint, repairing the main pathway. One batch broke, up the stones needed, another put them per hand into small baskets, out of which they were tippe 1 into a hand barrow, and this in it-; turn was wheeled away at a leisurely pace, and the load dumped overboard at its destination. Nobody hurries in these parts. Why should they? It's the land of lots o' time. Almost everybody walks round the island path once in twenty-four hours. It is the only place where you mav walk at any length, and if you are not careful you are liable to go over the edge. As fc-r those who walk in their sleep, they had better make a home on the mainland, half a dozen miles to the left as you "enter the straits from the west.

A good third of Samarai is planted with cocoanuts, which make the spot extra picturesque and give it the real tropical finish, while the beach is dotted here and there with native houses, the natives themselves being of a cleaner brand than those of the Port Moresby division of the Territory.

A pretty sight is tiie pearling flvot and recruiting schooners, which anchor in the roadstead off the quarantine island. The pearlers, who find most of their treasures in the Trobriinl Islands, a day or so away, and in the adjacent China straits, have stores * n shore, and will dispose of their wares for a consideration. A "t'i.ooo pearl recently came to Samarai. Who is »o lucky as to own it now history telletli not: but it telleth of a man who was on his way south per .steamer to dispose of £2,000 worth of pear!*!, which h 1 carried for safety in his breast pocket. On? day somebody called out "shark, and as the owner of the pearls leant over the steamer's side, the better to seo what was happening, over went the packet to Davy ones',s locker. A diver was sent after them, but the tide runs quickly in these waters, at times over seven miles an hour, and the sea stt'.l hath its pearls Part of the itinerary of a Samarai trip is a visit to one or other of the cocoanut plantations. An hour or so in a launch and you are literally run ashore on a glorious beach. There : s nothing in the way of a jetty, so a couple of natives are requisitioned to transport the feminine members of th"? party, making a seat with their hands, whereon the passenger sits while she encircles a pair of oily necks. On the plantation-—on this occasion Doini, the property of Messrs. Nelson and Sheddon—6oo acres are planted with the nut which is Incoming moi<e and more valuable as an article of commerce. The cocoa-nut, though it takes seven years to come to maturity, will bear for 10 yea's. At the ripened stages it- is knocked down split, op. n with a sTtib knife, and its white kernel abstracted and laid to drv in to, sun. When dried, it is the copra we kunw of. Secondquality copra is dried by smoke. To get the nuts, the nigt'ers "shin" un a ttv.. like monkeys. When green, the kernel is delicious, its milky fluid making a rich, i-oohug drink for tli • tlnr.stv.

Another ln™iu f v simi. this t:mo on the mainland. i< V\':i.u:it iitmin, t!i;> plantation home ol Surveyor and' Mis. K'; - nost Tooth, where rubber, as w*e'l as coff.'e and eoroannts. are growing 'n their various stag.-s. The liomcsttvul is most picturesque, Inrlt in native fashion of the sago palm and pandanus, nnl without a single nail everything ticn-J together with native cord sfrirpod from the till trunk* of local tnv.s. Sur-

rounded by a very wide verandah, it makes a cool retreat all the year round; while a garden, a motor-launch, a t nnis court, and croquet ground add U ns attractiveness.

Socially, Saniarui is quite a gar place, e.spe.-ially when the mail boat comes in and brings a batch of touiists, who are straight away invited ,o the dance, which always takes place on "boat night," in thj School of Arts, cleared o f ' its literary contents for the occasion. The floor is just at right pitch, the music is good, and at the windows are crowded the chocolate-col-oured far: ■> and frizzy hair of the native population, who look on with interest at the "dim dim's'' (white man's) effort to enjoy himself. In between tne dance, there is a I teach; and there's also a seat- under the shelter n a powder magazine not unknown to fame. Tennis and cricket a,re daily happenings, and a swimming bath is available in front .if the Customs quarters. Occasionally there is a farewell dinner; and always there is open house to visitors, not only in Samurai, but throughout the Territory which shelters under the Commonwealth wing.