Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 5, Issue 225, 10 November 1916, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

By IDA &&LL£&

THE NEW CAPE. The leading feature of the new fashions is the cape effect, which occurs >n toilettes of all kinds and is very pretty and becoming. The cape is of various lengths and i- now a single, now a double or triple affair, anil trims coats, frocks and blouses with equal grace. For spring wear, a detachable deep cape is a charming adjunct to the on_piece dress of taffetas, crepon or oth.-r seasonable material, and completes a toilette most effectively wdien made jf the dress material, with a roll-collar oi different stuff. The cape should reach to tbes waist, as, if shorter, it is less im-portant-looking and effective • when, however, the cape fs an actual part of the dress itself, it may be quite short. The dress with cape, illustrated, is of a simple, pretty style for the spring. The cape, ot which a diagram is given

No. 19SOis quite separate from the dress. It .s cut deep enough to roaciFto the waist, back and front, and is nicely rounded at the back.

Tho paper pattern of flic cape is ei two pieces, and comprises hall the cape proper and half the rovers-collar. The diagram indicates the two pattern pieces, laid upon 1J yards of 36-inch material, folded in bail lengthwise, the straight edges of both pieces being laid to the fold to avoid seams.

Tho front view of the cape shown in the thumbnail sketch suggess another means of arranging the fronts. In this case tho latter are cut straight up to the neck and at the top are turned back to form self-made rovers, while a collar is added at the back of the neck.

Were the cape made of cloth, the roll-collar would look well in taffetas o: moi'J.

A CROCHET COAT

To make the crochet coat i'lustratod, about 3jlbs. of 4-ply lingering wool will be required, and a hone crochet hoo'c No. 9.

The crochet should be firmly done, as loose working has not near y so good an effect. If the worker handles the stitches loosely, let her try a smaller hook. Some people worrt tighter than others, and in view of this, it is wtell to work a small piece before beginning the coat and judge how many stitches will go to the inch. It is also advisable to measure the work as it progresses, either with a cloth coat that fits or a plain coat pattern; then if the worker finds her crochet coal is not large enough, she can do a tew more rows before decreasing: or if it is too large, she can do a few rows less. The coat illustrated measures aho it 30 inches in length, and from 31 to 3C

n cl.es acr iss the bust. Throughout' this pattern the double crochet and treble stitches should be worked into the back loop.only, to give a ribbed effect: and when decreasing, two stitches should be taken together on the hook to prevent a hole I nless otherwise directed, turn each treble row with three chain, and the coat :- worked almost entirely in treble stitch. FRONT. Make a chain of 30 stitches: this ; . for tho front edge, and the work proceeds towards the shoulder and finishes at the front side-piece. First Row.- -Miss 3 eh., 1 tr. in each stitoh to the end. Second Row. 3 eh. to "turn, 1 tr in each stitch to the end. Third Row.—l tr. in each stitch until only two stitches remain ;'fhen decrease by working into both these stitches together. Fourth Row.—3 oh. to turn:

Copyright.

dcciw.se, tr. to end. The decreasing, it should lie noted, is in each case at tho top cud ot the row. Work eight more rows ol treble, decieasing onto at tn]> end of each row.

Thirteenth Kow.— 1 tr. in each stitch ■ uo decreasing. Fourteenth Kow.—l tr. in each stitch, but increase at the beginning of the row, by working 2tr. into one stitch. Work threv more rows, increasing at top end of each i-ow.

Eighteenth Row.-Turn with 4 ch., I tr. into fourth stitch from the needle. 1 tr. into the first tr.; this makes in increase of two stitches, counting th> three chain as one trehle. Finish the row. Nineteenth Row.—lncrea.se !it working twice into each of the last two stitches. Repeat the last two rows twice more.

Twenty-fourth Row.—Like the eighteenth row. Twenty-fifth l{ow.—l lr into each stitch, out decrease by worknig into the last two stitches together. This tilings the worker To the shoulde-. Twenty-sixth Row.—l tr. into each stitch, without deceasing. Repeat these last two rows four times more each. This completes the shoulder, but it' not long enough, the hist two rows may be repeated. Thirty-fifth Row.—Count from top o' pivcc-ding row -11 stitches and mark the place. Work 1 tr. into each stitch from end, as far as the mark; then turn. This begins the undcr-am or side-piece. Thirty-sixth Row.—Decrease at beginning of row; tr. to end Thirty-seventh Row. —Tr.. decrease »t top end of row. Thirty-Eighth Row. « Tr., decrease at beginning of row. Crochet two rows ol treble without decreasing.

Forty-first How.— Tr., till only 6 stitches remain; 3 d.c, 1 s.c.; turn, lake hook out, insert it upward through next stitch. and draw through loop of last stitch. Forty-second Row. —1 eh., 3s. <■~ and 3 d.c. consecutively, I tr. into each of remaining stitche*. Forty-third Row.—Tr. till only ?3 stitches of preceding row re.nain ; 3 d c, 1 s.c, turn as in the forty-first row. Forty-fourth row like forty-second row. Repeat last two rows five times more each. This hrings the worker t.i end of fifty-fourth row, and complete thy first front. Make a second froa l " exactly similar, THF. BACK. -Make «, chain of fifty-riv ■ stitches turn. Fust How. —.Miss 1 eh., ls.c 1 d.c.: then 1 tr. in each stitch to the end of row. Second Row.- Tr. until only G stitches remain: 3 d.c., 3 s.c. I!) eh. Repeat last two rows five times more, working on the nineteen chain on each repetition of the first row.

Thirteenth Row. —Miss one; 1 s.e.. 1 d.c: tr. to end. Fourteenth Row.— Tr. till onlv 6' stitches remain: 3 d.r. , 3 s.c, 15 eh. Fifteenth Row!— Miss 3 eh.. 1 tr. in each stitch to end. Sixteenth Row.—Tr. all flic way, 42 eh. This hrings the worker to the shoulder. Seventeenth Row.—Miss 3 ch.; tr. t> end. Eighteenth Row. —Tr.. increase 1 tr. at shoulder. Work eight ro.v< mere, increasing 1 tr. in cich row at top. This completes one shoulder. Twenty-seventh Ron. —1 tr. in eae'i stitch. Twenty-eighth Row Tr., derceas© at end of row by taking twi stitches together. Repeat last tw > rows once. Work six rows oT tr. with out decreasing. Thirty seventh Row. - Increase 1 tr. a beginning of row. Thi.-. ty-eighth Row.—Without increasing. Thirty-ninth Row. Like thirtyseventh row. Fortieth Row.—Withou*. increasing This hrings the worker U. sciond shoulder. Work nine rows, decreasing in each row at top. Fiftieth row. Tr., leaving the last thirtynine stitches at th'etop end of preceding row unworked. Turn. Fiftyfirst Row. —Decrease at beginning of row. Finish as in the front from the torty-lirst row. FOR THE SLEiEYEs. Make 10 eh. First Row.—Miss 1 ch. 1 s.c into each of u?xt three stitched, ld.c. into each of next two stitches; 1 tr. into each of next three stitches, increase by working 2 tr. into last eh Second Row. —Turn with 1 ch.; increase by working 1 tr. into fourth stitch from needle; 1 tr. into next stitch, and 1 tr. into each stitch to end of row: 10 ch. Third Row.—Miss 1 ch.; 1 s.c. into each of next three stitches; 1 tr. >nto each stitch to end, but increase 1 tr. in last stitch. Repeat last two rows five t:m.'= mor:. Fourteenth Row.—Like second row, but make 11 ch. at end of it. Fit-u-enth Row. —Mi-s three, '. tr. into each stitch until only two stitches remain: 1 d.c. into next stitch. 2 d.c. into last stitch. Sixteenth Row.—4 ch 1 tr. into fourth stitch from needle (which increases two stitches), and 1 tr. into every stitch to end Repeat last two rows twice more. Twenty-first Row. —Like fifteenth row. Twenty-second How.—3 ch. ('which increases one tr.l. 1 tr. into ei ch stit • i to end. Repeat the last two rows twi?o mure. Twenty-first How.- Like fifteenth row.

Twenty-second How.—3 ch. (which increases one tr.), 1 tr. into each stitch to ciiil. Repeat the last two rows twice more. Twenty-eighth How.—l tr. in to each stitch until only three stitches remain : 1 d.c. in each of tl.ese threj. stitches. Twenty-eighth Rc.tr. — 1 tr into each stitch. Twenty-ninth Row. — 1 tr. into each stitch till only four stitches loniaui: '1 (1.e.; decrease by working 1 d.c. into the Inst two together. Thirtieth Row.—Decrease at zoginning then 1 tr. in each stitch to end. Repeat those Who run twice more. Thirty-fifth Row.—, tr. into cwh stitch tiil five stitches teniain; i d.c.; decrease twice by working 1 d.c in two stitches together. Thirty-sixth Row.-Like thirtieth Row. Repeat these last two rows twice more. Fortyfirst Row.—Like thirty-fifth row. Forty-second Row. — Decrease at beginning of row hy taking two stitches tog.'thcr. Work tr. till forty-fire stitches of preceding row remain; 3 d.c. and 3 s.c. coiLsecutivelv: 1 eh., turn. Fortythird Row.- 3 s.c, 3 d.c., 1 tr. into each stitch, hut decrease twice at end. forty-fourth Row.—Decrease once at beginning r.f row. Work tr. till sixteen stitches ef preceding row remain: 3 d. c and 3 s.e. consecutively; > ch., turn. Repeat t-ho-:> last two rows five times more. Fifty-fifth Row.—F. : ke fortythird row. Fasten off. This completes sleeve. The second sleeve is num. 1 exait'y similar. COLLAR AND CUFF. These are worked entirely in double crochet, each stitch worked into had; loop only, as in coat. Always turn with 1 eh., and work firmlv. For the collar, make 37(41., and work ninetveight rows of d.c., which trill mavo

forty-nine ridges. Tor tho c .ffs, maKi 2-5 ch., and work fifty row-, of d.c.

MAKING LP THE COAT

Sew up tbe ends of cuffs, also the shoulder and sido-seams of coat; leave the last live stitches at lowtst end of hate.- unjoined. Sew on the collar, and secure each end of it to the top of thirteonth row in each front, respectively: *<?e that centre goos to centre of b" k. and the rest should fall into its ; nee. Put Mi • sleeve seam exactly ;it the side scam of coat, and loaw any fullness that may bo in the sleeve to be eased in at top Join thj cuff> to the sleeves, putting seam to seam. Work a row of single stitch all along the edge of ccat, except at collar and cuffs.

Work flat Itiittouhole loops with wool idong front -edges of ):vat. The>e -hould he placed six inches apart an-? there should he four or down eacvi side, lurn hack each edge along thirteenth row, and place .: mark it each loop as :> guide for th > buttons, which should be of pearl. When sewing on each button, plaej a linen one exactly behind it on the wrong side and sew through" both tho=<» at the waic time: this prevents the coat dragging at thd buttons. A hook and small loop -hould l»e added .it neck. The seams should b? pressed with a warm iron. but it should not touch the wool. A piece of soft linen shou!cFl)e placed on tlio coat before pressing.

ALMOND PASTE FOR FRUIT STUFFINGS.

Almond paste is the foundation ol many delicious sweetmeats. To ma!;? it, take 4 oz. of ground almonds, 2 oz. of icing sugar, 2 oz. of caster sug-ir, and somo flavouring. Rub the sugars together through a fine sie/e, mix ii: the ground almonds, and s-dd u teaspoonful of the flavouring chose.!. Work all together with a wooden spoon, adding more flavouring or a ittlo water, if too dry. Knead tha mixture well and make it of a smooth, firm consistencv.

Almond paste makes a delicious stuffing for prunes, dates, and cherries. To stuff dates, take out the stores, make up similar shapes in almond paste, roll them in sifted sugar, and in-ert in thrdates in plaecof stones, but leaving the paste exposed. To stuff candied cherries, make s slit in the fruit, roll up a little ha!! of almond paste, roll it ill caster sugar, and insert in the cherry.

A THOUGHT FOR THE WEEK. "To meddle is to destroy the holy chance. Meddlesomeness is the very opposite of helpfulness, for if consisrV ii? forcing yourself into another sell instead of opening yourself as a refuge to the other." —G. Macdonuld.