Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 5, Issue 217, 13 October 1916, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

A PRACTICAL WALKING SUIT. The economical housewife is carrying economy into dressmaking as well as housekeeping, and is finding out that by the aid of a good paper pattern and the choice of a smipie design, she can succeed very well in making up not only her one-piece house dresses, but also her coat and skirt costumes, anc! thereby she makes a considerable saviiuj. A suggestion is offered in the accompanying sketch for a costume that presents no difficult problems to the home dressmaker, and that is fashionable but simple to deal with at the same time. The skVt requires no lining, but the coat should be lined with polonaise, or some such material, and the lining should be cut on the coat pattern, though it must be seamed apart. A diagram is sketched of the paper pattern of the coat in the flat, and thi-j should act as a guide to the dressmaker

in making up the garment. The skirt is a pleated one, and might bo mounted into a yoke at the waist or pleated right up, into the belt. For the complete costume, about 5J wards of 50inch stuff will be needed. The diagram indicates the coat pattern laid on i'2 yards of 50-inch material, folded in half lengthwise. The pattern pieces of the coat, ten in all, include: One front of coat, one side-front. «*e side-back, half the seamless back (laid to tho fold), half the collar (also laid to the fold), one sleeve, in two parts (upper and under), one cuff, one strap, and half the belt. The latter must be cut complete in one piece, and a space is marked out on diagram for the lacking half of belt. The coat lis provided with four straps —two in front and two at the back; but these straps can if prpferrea, 'n dispensed with; likewise one belt. A small sketch is given of the coat without either belt or straps. The diagram represents sufficient waste material to provied for all the straps required where they are not used, however, thy material will serve as facings to the fronts of coat. Thesis latter are *'as tened with a single button and buttonhole, and the belt fastens in the sam& way. AVoin witli the costume is one r-f the new sailor hats of fine straw trimmed with a band of ribbon-velvm and a loo*.> spray of flowers and foliage, posed at the right side.

A HOME-MADE UNDERSET. At this season it is usual for the lingerie wardrobe to be replenished, and many girls nowadays make up nearly all the.ir own underwear, and are thus able to supply themselves with dainty lingerie outfits at little cost. The skirt this weeiv depicts a sim;ve pattern of one of the new underskrrfs and a camisole. The bodice is a particularly good pattern to affect with a blouse of transparent material, as ;t is provided with short sleeves. The,?

arc edged with eniTifroidfered frilling matching that at the. neck. Below :ii« edging is a hand of insertion-embroid-ery, rim through with ril)hon. The bodico fastens in front with buttons, Th«> petticoat is suitaMu for moi>

By IDA M£LL£R * * OvpytiQht.

ette, alpaca, or similar stuff, or "or cambric. It is fitted at the waist and finished with a tucK just below the knees, and below the tuck is a gathered flounce withji tucn. and kilted irii. at the base. The petticoat is beautifully shaped and would prove an excellent support to a fashionable skirt.

BEAUTY SLEEP. The •early to b.-d, early to rise" i:: dividual is generally the healthy one, lor good health requires that sleeo, and plenty of it, shall be taken at the right time—not in the form of thi) afternoon doze, or in the morning hours after sun-rise, but In the early hours of the night. Not only i-j it a mistake to "turn night into day" an dobta-'n no sleep before midnight because of the tired feeling that lato hours leave on th-i constitiit'.on, but .also because it is bad for the eyes to be subject to too much artificial light. Strain upon the eyes is a frequent cause of headac'ic and nervous breakdown, though many people suffer from eye-strain without ebing aware of the. fact. It is a great mistake to waste the early morning hour-; in sleep that coal 1 with so much greater profit have beo l taken before the previous midnight. We have all heard of "beauty sleep," and this is the sleep that is obtaim.'i before midnight, because it is said to be so important to health and beauty to keep .early hours. Moreover, ' y going to bed early, it should be less difficult to get up early. Many people might advisedly take an hour off their evenings and put that hour on to th? mornings with marked advantage u themselves, for much good work ma." be accomplished in the early morning hours, when the clay is young and the air and the brain are fresh. Sleep is the cheapest of medic'nes, and well has it been described as "chief nourislier in life's fea.st," "balm of hurt minds," "sore labour's bath." Fo* every reason, we should see to it th.it our hours of sleep are sufficient, and taht they arc taken at the most reasonable time.

WHAT TO DO WITH TAPESTRY CUTTINGS. A good use to which cuttings and short lengths of tapestry and strong brocade can I*3 put is as work-cases, needle-books, hand-bags, and so on. Bags look well made in the drawup style or in "pocket" shapes, and must be lin&l, of course. If they arc drawn up at the neck, gilt, ivory or ebony rings should be sewn to them, either on the inside or outside, and the runner-cord passed through tho, rings the approved way; if they r-r-i of "pocket"' or "envelope" shape, let the. flap be secured with a cord loop and l*'g button covered with the material. Work-cases and needle-books of furniture brocade or tapestry can be made in the roll-up style or in ordinary poc-ket-obok shape, and should be tied with ribbon.

RICE AND CHEESE SAVOURY. A delicious and cheap savoury for luncheon is made with boiled rice, strongly flavoured with grated aheesa. When the rice is well boiled, it should bo placed before the fire for a few minutes to dry. Then some grated cheese should be mixed with it and a seasoning of popper and salt, the rice mixture should be shaped into flat cakes (the size of ordinary fish cakes) an'l fried in boiling fat till golden brown. A little fried parsley served on tli" 1 . top of each cake is an improvement to the dish. Rice cakes with half a fried tomato on the top of each, are also tempting savouries, and are especially good if the rice is boiled in stock.

A THOUGHT FOR THE WEEK. Every duty which is bidden to wait returns with seven fresh duties at '• J back.—Charles Kingsley.