Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 5, Issue 207, 8 September 1916, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

A RUSSIAN BLOUSE-COAT FOR THE HOUSE. Whether used for renovating purposes or otherwise, a blouse-coat, constructed on the well known lines of a Russian coat, is a very useful article of apparel, and becoming withal. It may be sleeveless or made with sleeves, and according to the material of which it is composed, so may it suit various occasions. Russian blouse-coats, .although founded on certain special lines, are, at the same time, open to a considerable variety of treatment. Some are made seamless, back and front, the garment, if sleeveless, fastening on the shoulders; while if sleeves are inset, the blouse is split open in front, perhaps, from neck to midwaist and sl-pped over the head.

Other styles demonstrate fastenings on the slant or straight fastenings from neck to the hem of the blouse, which latter reaches to just below the hips. A stitched belt may be added, where the blouse is seamed at the waist, or a loose sash-drapery may be preferred, where the blouse is cut in one length. In one or another of its forms the blouse-coat will be found very useful in freshening up a dress and giving :t a new character, and it can be worn in change with an ordinary blouse o: dress'-bodice. The Russian blouse-coat illustrated is a verv serviceable pattern that can lie easily' dealt with by the home-dress-maker, and can be copied in any plain or fancy fabrc. The quantty of' 36inch stuff required is from 3\ to 3£ yards. The basque is added and is not cut in one with the bodice, and it is seamless at the back. Concerning the sleeves, the tops of these arc cut in ope with the blouse, but tlie lower parts are added. Shoulderseams are introduced, and these might be trimmed with small buttons, .f preferred. The paper pattern of the blouse-coat : s in eight pieces, namely, one front and half tly back of blouse half the front and half the back of basque, one lower sleeve, one cuff, half the collar and half the straight waist-band. These pieces shouU lie distributed on the material as suggested by the diagram. The stuff of which the two basque patterns, the back of. blouse and the halfbelt are. laid, should be folded in half lengthwise, the straiglTt edges of back of basque and of blouse-back being laid

to the fold, in order to avo'd seams. A space is marked out for the lacking half of belt..

The other four pattern p'eees must lie laid on material opened out to Us full width and doubled, the straight edge of collar being placed to the fold. The rema : ning pattern pieces must ne cut out in duplicate, and care must be taken that the centre of blouse-front u plated on the straight of material. The dotted lines 'indicate the centre-front, and it w'll not be neceessary for the left-front of blouse to be cut with a lap-over oil the cross, though a margin on the straight must be allowed for a turning. A pretty finish is given to the blouse-c-oat by French knots, worked along the hems." The button and button-hole '•fastenings*' might be purely tornamcntal, the garment fastening with press studs. JAP SILK CUTTINGS AS HANDKERCHIEFS. Cuttings of white or cream Jap silk, left over from children's frocks, are useful as pocket-handkerchiefs. They should be hemmed, of course, or the smaller squares might have added henn i,r pale blue or clierrv-coloured pongee silk. DAINTY FINGER NAILS. When the finger-nails are very much sta'nt-d under the tips and around, and someth'ng more than soap and water is needed lo clean them, one or two drops of liqird ammonia should be added to the wash-water, and the nails, it then brushed, will appear beautifully white underneath. The soap used should not lie of too strong a nature or the skin of the hands will be chafed thereby and suffer in consequence. SIMPLE ONE-rIECE PINAFORES. Children care little about soiling their frocks, and unless these latter tire protected by a pnafore ,or an tA'eral! wlrle the children ar,e lat play, the chances are that the (frocks will suffer considerably. Modern pinafores are so pretty and dainty-looking, that no little girl need be ashamed to wear them. Indeed, the pinafore is sometimes prettier than the frock itself. One of the most popular pinafores -s of blue or white linen, printed or worked with funny little figures above

9WB By IDA MELIER - - Copyright.

the hem: others are bordered with fancy braid, and others, again, are embroidered with a verse from a nursery rhyme across the chest. Many are cut on the well-known Magyar pattern, which allows half-length sleeves, while others are provided w/th long sleeves, and there is the pinafore without sleeves that is also a favourite and is, naturally, very quickly made, especially when it is of the one-piece kind. Two simple little pinafores are illu3-

No. 1963. trated. Each is cut in one piece, and is, therefore, particularly easy to make. The pinafore "A" is cut with long straps, that cross the back and are buttoned over the shoulders to points proeeedng from the fronts. The small back view shows the crossed straps, and the sketch immediately beneath it indicates the shape of the complete pinafore in the flat. Buttonholes are made in the ends of the long straps and buttons sewn to the short points in front. Pinafora "B" is nothing more than a straight piece of material (see diagram), from which a large round has been cut out in the centre for a neckopen:ng. It is sculloped all round and slits are made on the lower part tor a sash to be threaded through. If preferred, the pinafore might) be opened on one shoulder and closed with press fasteners. FOR ROUGH HAJJi. There is a dry, wiry kind of hair that refuses to lie smooth, no matter what care may be bestowed upon it. The result is an unkempt-looking head, at variance wth the present fashion f or flat, low dressing. Then again, there is the head of hair that though not always unmanageable, becomes so at times through over-dry-ness of the scalp or lack of proper attention. Systematic treatment for a time is the best remedy, and it may be home treatment with regular brushing allied to a tonic massage. As hair is usually rough because of lack of natural oil, when this is the case seek to supply the deficiency by each night rubbing jnto the scalp a few drops of almond oil. 'liiese must not lie spread over the long hair, as the oil would make it greasy, and prove a dust-co'lector. Apply oil with the finger-tips or with the stopper from a toilet bottle, letting ".t drip on to the head; then rub it well by l'ghtly pinching the scalp with the thumb and first finger of each hand. Spread the fingers several inches apart, and gradually draw them together. Keep this movement up until all the head has been massaged. Then brush from the crown of the head to the ends of the hair with a long-bristled brush, using long, smooth strokes. Wiien well brushed, a gloss may be giv.enTiy rubbing the hair in the. d rection in which yot< w:sh t to be, using a silk handkerchief for the purpose. When the fiaTr is naturally dry. i few drops of glycerine may be added to the rinsing water after a shampoo, and caro should be taken to dry the hair thoroughly. Wring out most of the water in a thick towel, then fan or shako the long hair in the direction n which you wish it to be. rubbing with warm towel?.