Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 5, Issue 201, 18 August 1916, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

By ium MELLER

A SIMPLE STYLE FOR SERGE Women with practical rands have solved the problem ot how to dress well on .small means by becoming their own dressmakers, and, thanks to the simple fashions ot to-day, they are able to turn out smart and well-made cosmany of which boar very little evidence of the inexperienced hand. The round, full skirt that is among the most popular fashions, ; : s quite easy to make, and no less so is the skirt with fietted waist and fluted base that shares favour with th,o former. The more difficult fashion to deal with - s the skirt with gauging about the \va ,: .st, this requiring a good dcai of care and some little skill to accomplish .satisfactorily, for tlif gauging needs to be carefully nodulated. ("nle-rs qu'to confident of one's own abilities as a dressmaker, jt is generally wise to avov.d complicated designs and remain fa'thful to the simple ones. The wide crux of the thing rests, however, in the possession of a good paper pattern to cut from. This is the ''right hand" of the home dessmaker, who, naturally, must have a reliable guide of the kind to aid her in her work and ensure success. Quite ft simple little costume has been selected for illustration and discussion to-day, a costume that lis free of complications, and is, at the same time, cut after the very latest pattern. It would materialise well in navy blue fine serge, or mole-coloured cloth, the quantity required being ."j yards of 48in. stuff. For a short figure li yards might suffice with care, and were the coat cut U wa'st-ievel only or a trifle beyond The costume ensists of a short, loose coat and a full two-piece skirt, and the paper pattern comprises half the skirt, one front of coaT, half the back, one raglna sleeve, and half the band collar. Lay the skirt pattern on material opened out wide and doubled; the other patten pieces must lie disposed on the material folded in half lengthwise, the straightedge of back of coat laid to the fold to ave d a seam. The collar \s also laid to the fold for the same purpose. The raglan sleeve is cut out in duplicate, as are the front of coat and the skirt pattern. The straight edges of both must be laid on the straight of material and margins must be left for turnings. Another thing to observe 'S that the centre of the raglan sleeve is iilso nlaced on the straight of material, all the way along. A glance at the digram will show the worker how to arrange the patterns on the material, and

the notches indicated will help to make easy the putting together of the pattern pieces. Note, on the diagram, the very deep curve of the arm-holes, .which givws to the coat the new shape, with narrowed top and width below. The coat should be lined, and the lining must be cut on the coat pattern, but seemed apart. The fronts fasten with buttons and biu..on-holes, which are on a direct line with those ot the skirt, for the latter fastens in front. A dart is made over each hip. A smart touch is g'ven by the straight hand-collar, that buttons high and is a change from the more usual turned-down revers-collar. The hat illustrated i- a beconrng shape suitable for velvet, with a cord edge and flower-rosette and an artificial osprey in front. HABITS ANiVTHEIR INFLUENCE Habits become second nature, and t if, very important that those who have the care and management of young iwople should use their influence to the best advantage and cultivate :n tho voung courtesy and good manners, that will be an ornament to them when they grop up. . A judicious regard for the niceties ol tbe toilette is also to be encouraged, for neatness in dr,oss : s a thing to be desired, both in man and woman. Too often a slovenly appearance gives a bad impression of the individual, and (ronerallv bespeaks a certain carelessness of character. From rvery point of view ; t is an advantage to be well-dre.-sed and to refrain from wearing shabby clothes, or clothes that, il not kba'inv. need attention as regards lacking buttons or hoolTs and eyes, braid, ornaments, and >o on. We hav,e all known the woman who, at whatever hour we may call, is nvariahly nicely dressed and ready to receive lis, just as we know the woman who never seems to have (prte finished her boilette. hut is always dishevelledlooking and appears to have hurried awav from Ik 1 !' nn'rror. Tn the same way there are homes that are always dainty-looking and ready for unexpected visitors, and homes that are never tidy or comfortable appearaiiee. It is not a matter of means that Mitluenees, hut habits, the habits of those in n.utnonty, and though the well-kept home may give an impression of a comfortable, steady income, and the untiddv-kept one that of scarcity of funds vet the truth may be that

Copyright.

the home of apparent luxury is kept up on half the means that go to the upkeep of the chaotic untidy house wberj no pinch of money is felt". SMART PLAID FROCK FOR A GIRL. Pictured is a frock for a little girl, suitable for school, or homo wear, 'n which the popular plard material and sleeveless bolero effect figure prominently. Although it appears smart, :t is really very simple and .easy to make, and mothers nord not hesitate to attempt the making of it, even 'f thev

know very little about dressmaking, and have not a great deal of t : me to give to tlie work. The model will prove becoming to the majority of girls oetween the ages of six and ten years, and any plaid woollen that js suitable for dress purposes may be selected. Plaid frocks have a distinctly French air, that renders them very attractive and out of the common, and dark blue or green plaids, with a warm line of red running through them, are particularly becoming. One or other such might very well be chosen for the frock iliust*atfid. There are two ways in which the frock might be made up. The sleeves and vest, for instance, might be of plain cloth jn the most prominent colour of the plaid, and be stitched to the fivck; or, on the other hand, the vest and sleeves might proceed from a separate blousette of cream delaine. Tlii plaid, sleeveless bodice fastens, like the skirt, at the back, and is trimmed in front wi'th velvet buttons, matching the velvet at the waist. The bodice to stitched to the skirt, and the latter js gauged below the waist. This charming little frock would copy well in shepherd's plaid and recommends itself at a glance. It is n good pattern for using up a short length of material, whether of plain or figured surface.

ONE WOMAN S TOILET SECRET. An elderly woman, whose complexion though no longer pink and white, is jf a delicate creamy tone without a tinge of parchment, the skin itself fine as a baby's, was congratulated l lately on the wonderful way in which she has preserved her complexion and escaped wrinkles. " What js your toilet secret ?" she was asked. "Simply this," was the reply. "I use plenty of soap and water and no cosmetics." Soap and water, then, are the real essentials for retaining the freshness of the skin. At the same time, it is not every woman ,who finds it beneficial to abstain altogether from the occasional use ot so ample a cosmetic as pure cold cream, oatmeal cream, and similar harmless unguents, which certainly have their value in improving the condition of an over-dry skin and renewing elasticity, lost, miiybe, by the use of hard water or too strong a soap. Much depend > on the nature of the skin. If it h.i inclined to ruglien easily and to nc uncomfortably dry, then assuredly the rubbing in of a good emollient cream will bo of benefit, and help to preserve a soft, smooth texture, and retain the fineness of the skin. A coarse skin generally requires n special treatment of one kind or another, the great a ; m of the remedy bemg to prevent the pores from expanding and to keep the skin always soft to the touch. For this purpose. gentle finger-massage is one of the best and cheapest remedies; but perhaps thi most important thing of all to be observed is the eschewing of hard water for facial ablutional purpose-. It possible, rain-water alone should Jill the toilet pitcher.

A THOUGHT FOR THE WEEK. Use your gifts fn'tlii'uTlv, and tiny shall lie enlarged; practise what you know, and yon shall attain to higlioknowledge.—Thomas Arnold.