Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 5, Issue 197, 4 August 1916, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

AN ARTISTIC SMOCK. Among oid fashions revived is smocking, whjch is certainly pretty enough to warrant a return to the vogue that was favoured years ago. On many a frock gauging is now giving place xo the richer smocking, and the smocked blouse is to be found among the newest and prettiest fashions for smart and simple wear. Nor is it surprising that the household smock is taking its place among useful fashions for the home, and supplying the place of painting apron, cooking apron and dusting ov-i'all.

The smock i.-> more artistic in appearance than the ordinary overall, and is mad," in such materials and colours as natural tussore, blue linen, brown or indigo sateen, holland of a soft quality, and so on. Some of the smocks are full length, others justl cover the knees, and others, again, reach only to midway between waist and knees. These shorter smocks are really in the nature of a Russian blouse, and are delight-

fully picturesque when made of washing canvas or dark blue Shantung, smocked with Russian red.

Most of the smocks, of whatsoever length, are made with yokes, and the smocking begins below these latter; but occasionally we meet with models that are smocked on the shoulders, and then, probably, the front will be split open lor a few inches from the neck. Collars of the schoolboy type are usually added, and these may be decorated with French knots.

A variation of the straight-across smocking, which covers the chests ot so many smocks fastened at the back-, is seen in the newer method of introducing smocking only at, or rather immediately below, the front corners of the yoke, where the smocking sometimes takes the shape of a triangle. An artistic smock for the home is illustrated in Figure '" A." Here we have the smocking carried right across the chest below a yoke trimmed with French knots. The s'eeves arc smocked •it the top and again Kit the wrists, where a natural frill is formed, find a lar<r,° pocket, with a French knot borjs ndded at the right side. At the neck is a turned-down collar, also bordot ed with I 4 roncli knots. TKc smock fastens at the back, as shown in the small hack view, and is smocked below the yoke. In Figure "B" is a smock with rag--. Lan sleeves and laced front, smocked on either side. The sleeves are smocked above turned-back cuffs, and these Jitter, like the collar, are finished with a fancy stitch. The smaJl back view shows the smocking confined to centre of Lack.

.ir another, tlut may serve for sunny, j servico of dull days and showery Wfcilhci Tho fashion of tho coat and I the material of which it is composed, \ will of course, depend upon the purpose for which tho wrap is supplied, but a

—— — I —6#Ss© By iOA MELLSR

Copyright,

long, protective coat. a woman must hav,e tor she will find it invaluable—indeed practically indispensable, and without it, her wardrobe cannot be reckoned quite complete, ior one of the most useful items will b.e lacking. Aljways serviceable is the coat of Lack facecloth or velour-c'oth, that Jiangs soft and limp and carries verv little weight with it; corduroy is also an excellent material for a really usctul and smart-looking coat; while for wet weather wear, nothing is better than rain-proof cloth or .silk. The woman who dislikes the ordinal j mackintosh but des'res, at the same tunc to have by her a rainproof coat that wi'l not look very much out of place if worn even in fair weather, will find just the thing she wants in wellproofed cloth or silk materials, and -f she bo of an economical turn of mind and clever with her needle and sewing machine, she will probably buy a few yards of either of the said materia l ? and make up a nice-looking waterproof by her own efforts, choosing a smart, simple pattern that is easily dea't with. C'overt-coating arid silk that have been proofed may not lie cneap. but they are worth their price for the protection they give, and also because they present a very smart appearance that entries with it no suggestion of a waterproof.

Whipcord, in black, grcv, or sanijcolour, should also ho mentioned as excellent for long, serviceable coats that are not necessarily shower-proof. A simple pattern for a home-made raglan coat is illustrated, and this might he copied in shower-proof material or otherwise. The diagram shows the four parts of the paper pattern, representing hn'f the coat, supposedly laid upon 3$ yards of 4S-oO incn stuff, folded in half lengthwise. The straight edge of hack and of the hand-collar should he laid to the fold, thus enabling the back and collar to V cut without centre seams. The straight f-dge of back and of the band-co'lar should belaid to the fold, thus enabling th? back and collar to be cut without centre seams. The straight- edge of front must ;l : ,e parallel with the selvedge, allowing a margin for turning. The front and raglan sleeve must be cut out jn duplicate, and it will b? necessary to s?am on triangular pieces to the front and back low.er corners tj eke out width. These corner-pieces can be cut from the waste of material. The coat fastens with cords and buttons.

THE CHILD AND ITS TEACHER '"One of the most difficult things in my everyday life is to bring up my children in exactly the right way," said a mother, recently. "It is so difficult to avoid heing over-indulgent and at the same tunc steer clear of over-strict-ness. This is a problem I am trying to work out—l mean, how to manage my children perfectly—and 1 daresay there are may other mothers who can sympathise with me." Undoubtedly it is no easy thing to bring up chi'dren on the most approved lines, unless tact, patience and firmness are one's companions. These qualities should happily blended in a child's teacher. Children need a firm though kind hand to guide them: they are quick to take advantage and cannot understand the principle of variation—that is, of leniency one day, and severity the next. You must begin with children just as you intend to go ori. It is no kindness to be over-indulgent to a child, for that sort of training only fosters a spirit of discontent. The affectionate mother finds it very difficult at times to say No"and to punish : but, for tlie child's benefit in the future, she should never pass over a serious fault without correcting it. " When my children refuse to obt-v rite I always give them three chances," .vas the remark of a young Canadian mother when discussing the management of children with a friend. If at th« third tjme of asking they still renain obstinate, then I send them to ed as a punishment. T think sendng children to b.ed or cutting off tit>its for the day is the finest form of oiTQction that can be administered, iceause healthy children dislike having o lie still, but going to bed do,e« not larm them in any way —in fact, the ■est is good for them. ()na of th& ;reatest difficulties 1 have to contend gainst," she continued, "in bringing ip my children, is a tendency to kt •'in have their own way too much makes me rather unhappy that their rench governess is too strict with hem. She insists on their sitting up-

glit and prim, for hours at a t:nie; nit I refrain from saying anything Ijoaus? I think, perhaps, 'her influence nay he a wholesome corrective against nv' own woak hand'ing of them." 'it is quite true that a mother is not ilways the host fitted to train her hildren in tli-e way most strengthening to their characters. An outside in. luenc\> may .exercise greater control tnd he more beneficial to the chr'd. An,tlier tiling, children, like invalids, are ipt to take advantage of their own ;eopl.' and to he more obedient and letter behaved in the presence ot outsiders. Wh.eiv nianv mother-, make a mi^tak. 1 is in beginning to train their children too late. Thov tlnnk a little spoiling ill the Ci'jliest years will not matter and can he rectified afterwards. But this is an .error. Child-training should be carried out on discreet lines irom the beginning.

KEEP THE HANDS SOFT. The hands, when exposed to hard n« in tlie routine of house-work, should not lie frequently washed in, water, liut. instead, a few drops of oil should In' rulilied into them. They should then h.> dusted ov.er with fuller's earth and wiped with a coarse towel. This will cleanse them and keep the ilesh soft. Constant rinsing in water on the other hand, is inclined to coarsen the skin, making it rouuh and red A pood many women who do their own hous.'work. wear rubber giove* when washing dishes, thus keeping the hands dry. even in the midst of water. There is no doubt that this helps a givat deal to preserve the good apjioarnnc,. and the softness fit the skin and it is a precaution well worth taking. When the hands are badly stained, Ihi mi iu ; ce or pumice-stone will prove , (!»i• fi• i<>ll-- in cleansing them. \ TlTOl'nilT FOR THE WEFK. Tli.o discovery of what is true, and the pre/tico of that which is good, ar> the two most important objects of philosophy.—Voltaire.