Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 5, Issue 163, 7 April 1916, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

By iDA MELLER

A 00 USE LET BELT AND HOW TO MAKE 1 i. The deep belt placed low on the figure remains a characteristic feature ol fash.on, and helps to smarten up many a dress that is no longer new. It is one of those tr.fies of importance that cost a little, but mean much, am. is an addition to the wardrobe that most women will find useful. Deep, gathered belts, shaped to fit over the hips, are. as oiten as not, inseparable parts ol the costumes they adorn —that is to say, they are not separate pcces but are made of the dress material and stitched in with the actual dress it-elf. On the oi.ier hand, many deep, gathered felts are quite independent of the dresses w.th which they are worn, and are of silk or satin, perhaps, while the dress is of doth, cashmere, or voile. They can, in fact, be worn with any dro-s demanding a belt of any kind, and the more important patterns partake of the nature of a joke.

The yoke-belt illustrated, for instance, is a very smart style that might be copied in single-width material, and the girl who makes her own frocks or trifles of dress may be glad to possess herself of a pattern. The draped silk, of which the bolt is professedly made, is mounted on a fitted and shaped yoke, that should be of sateen or soft lining. A small, sideview sketch is shown of the finished foundation yoke, and another (above it) is off .Ted of the back of the draped belt, completed; while diagrams are also shown of the paper patterns of yoke and drapery. The pattern of the yoke (half tho article) should Ijo laid' on half a yard of 36-inch sateen folded double (lengthwise), so that the pattern is cut out in duplicate. The front of the yoke must be parallel with the selvedge and cut on the straight. The yoke is cut with a dart.

The pattern of tlio draped over-piece represents half the drapery. It shoull he laid on the cross (in one yard and a half of 3!)-inch taffetas, or other material, as shown liy tiie diagram, and ; t will bo seen that a space is marked out for the lacking half-piece. Make any alterations required; then stitch up the seams on the right side, so that the reverse of the belt, when completed, will i»o quite neat. Bone the seams and each side of the front, and turn the front edges over the boning. Face the top, bottom, and fronts with binding, and provide hook and eye

fastenings to the irants. I The drapery, when cut out, must be I seamed up the centre of the back, i urn J 111 the top and bottom edges and tack mem ligiuly. Bun gathering t:n\;u.s or make tiny pleats at the p'aees indicated by broken lines on t::v diagram, treat.ng the other half ol the drapery in exactly the same way ; draw up the threads evenly to the depth ot the yoke foundation, and pin the. drapery ia position, sutch.ng the back to mo foundation, fry on the belt, arrange > the folds to suit the figure, putting pins to keep them in place, and afterwards catch them eown to the foundation with sewing >ilk. Turn over the top edge and tack it. if nee* -- a r s'. to the lning, or leave it free with it- already turned- j ; m edge. j

As i n.p'e illcs> with Magyar b-xii*.■"> ami 1':I' skin, tucked above the hem, i.- illustrated u it'll the lielt. MR SOY SMOCKS. Clii'iiron'.- {ii:i;ilo:v.> iiavo, to a great extent, Im'i'll superseded 1> y overall frocks made of washing material, an., the newest am! jir-• 11it>t l.ttlc overalls a:. 1 smocked. 1 lis Ml old lash'.ou loxived, but it is Hollo the lis.- picturesque ami u-efid lor that. Miiall hoy- and girls alike are now rei<>ici ii_Li in prti idy-smocked overalls of turquoise-blue and ore-s-grceii 1 nen. o'* oi in-own linen, f.'n- muo< king being i\ different colour or -hade to the linen itself. White smot king is pretty .ill almost ;.ti\ colour. and re 1 looks veil on dark blue, ii<>lt! on brown, and so on. For gills, |>ink -mod,- «:••• pretty m ihaiige with light blue one.-: :iiktor iiitle hoys. pah- hliit- and reseda green smocks are weli chosen. Some arc m:n! 1 square at th.e neck, others are round, nvtli split color.rs: some, again, have loll" s'ccves smocked at the wi.st-. others have half-length, Magyar sleeves. The smocking is sometimes <arried right across the chest, while in othi'i' nistainos it is contimd to below tlie should* rs. Two pretty and useful little smocks for children are i!!n-trated. J Patterns 7il. each). The little girl's smock. Figc(,iil<! be norn with or without the licit, and w odd bv.k verv i reftv in i ream • oioured linen sm«cketl with brown llax-threa .. If made ol dark or light-blue Shantung silk, it would resolve itself into a charming little house-frock, and if in the dark colour, micht be smocked witn red or self-col-

Copyright.

ot::vci tioss silk. It is made with a yoke ami fastens r,t the back. The smock for a liny. Figure "15," is laced in front and finished with tin-