Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 5, Issue 135, 21 January 1916, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

A SIMPLE LINEN COSTI'ME. To-day. it is style that counts more than material, and so long l)s a clre-s is fashionable, and well cut, the material of which it is made may be quite cheap and the dress will be, all the same, a .success; but even the best material, if made up unbecomingly and in :i -tyie that is out of date, will never produce success in a dress. It i- well for ii girl, therefore, mat she should be able to make up \n-v own frocks after fashionable patterns, for in this way she can gather together quite a U'CC little collection of dresses at a -niii'l cost. The chief charm ol home dress-making is, indeed, the facility afforded of dressing well on small means, for exquisitely pretty fabrics may now be bought for practically a few pence the yard. Yoiles, muslins, and crepoiis are very cheap and pretty at the same tune. tussore ; s not very expens : ve, and there are various cool-wearing mercerised materials that are, again, remark, ably cheap. Present fashions are so ximple, that they appeal enormously to the home dressmaker. In regard to washing frocks, especially, should simplicity of style prevail, and in making up linen dresses it is as well to avoid such things as pleats and gathers as much as possible, but a little braid trimming of the washable knd may be used without interfering with ease in laundering.

A s'mple design for -j linen costtunt j I, illustrated, the pattern having been specially -elected in the interest of the home-dressmaker. The skirt : s quite plain, and cut on the umbrella pattern, fitting nicely at the top and spreading out wide below. It is in two parts only, and is seamed back and front, and on the lower part is trimmed with three lines of washing braid. S : milar braid trims the short, smart litt'e coat, which is split up at the side seams. The paper pattern of the skirt is : n one piece (half the skirt) and that of the coat includes altogether five pieces, namely, one front, half the back, one sleeve iii two parts (.upper and under). and the collar. All the pattern pieces of the costume are indicated on the oe. eompanying diagrams. The quantity of 16-4* inch material required is i\ vards. The pattern nieces of the coat should be laid on the material folded in ha'f lengthwise and the straight edge of back must be laid to the ; fold. AH the other pieces are j cut out in duplicate. The duplicate eo'lar w ill be needed for a lining. When cut out and made, the collar is folded ova- -ii that it form- a double one. The skirt pattern should be laid on the material opened out to its full width and doubled, and the straight ; edge of front should he oil a level w : tli the selvedge a margin being left for a turning. The skirt placket can be arranged in front oi- at the back, .as preferred. It must be llcatlv f::ced and provided with snap fasteners. At the wai-t. the slVrt should be a nted to a petersham band, to be fastened with hooks and eyes, ami a dee,, hem should be made a' t the loot. This can b< turned im double or turned un once and fac I with tape. Tlie lilies of braid Oil the ,ku t and coat are set at equal di-tan-ees iViai't. Th t . coat fasten; with a siimle button and buttonhole l-»-'e small viowL -hi il- hr.nled ai' round on the sleeve-. Tl„. colic- is also braided. The coat mi|,i he turned up and hemmed or fared and a facing must lini-di the fronts and neck. The prettv straw sa lor hat -ken■lied. trimmed with a ve'l and simple flowc r- .,.,-,, y. ;, well worth copying. MOW TO MAKE A FILET CIMK'HET SMI'API'.. Few kind, ol fancy work are more , li, ,-t:v.' than I'det ■ roi bet. wb'.t h. according to the pan rn ami qualit\ ol the cotton ■ ho-seli. i- lov.lv for cll'osse, and for tea-cloths and other articles lor the ', 0i,),-. Some href insti in Hon- on how to make the two li'et crochi i squares ■!- |u,trated. mill be acceptable to tho.e inten sled in crochet-work, and some iliu-trated suggestion- are al-o g'veii ~f lane-, reticles made up with the The ahbivciatiotis used ill the (h <- eriptioli.s are eh. for cha'll. tr. for troh], ami da . for double rrochet, and 1,,,, i,,'.. 1,,,'., ,„■ hole-. Crochet cotton poiiiber ;M work- nut well for the 'To niak, the - .uare. No 1. a) bottom of ■.'roup, begin bv niakiinj s.-> ~|K Fir-,t row. - 1 tr. into v th <-h. 1n,.. ; the hook'. L'ell . llli-- '-» ( ll . 1 tr. illto n..\t i n oral from ' to end. making 2-"i ! hole- in all: -> ch.: tuni.

By IDA MELLER - -

Copyright.

Stoiul row. !tr. on 2nd tr.: 1 ir. i into even -tiuii until there are iU tr. I made; 2 eh., I tr. llto tile 3rd ell. oi I the loop ot ih. at end ot row ; .*> eh.; turn. i I bird row. 7tr. on Ist 7 tr. ; - ch., iii.s- 2 tr.. 7 tr., 2 eh., miss 2 tr., 1 tr. into next, 2 eh., miss 2 tr.. tr.. 2 ch., mis- 2 tr., I tr. into next tr., 2 cii., miss 2 tr., 7 ir., 2 ch., miss 2 tr., 7 tr., 2 ch.. I tr. into 3rd ch. of loop •a end of row. ■ A> all the hole- and groups 0 f tr. are l worked in the same way (that i-. every i tr. following in consecutive stitches, | whetlu r eh. or tr.) only the actual i number of holes and tr. will he g:\eii I in the following rows, and it must he ! noticed that the tr. finishing the last I hole before a group also stands ; is the ! Ist tr. of tiie following group. j Every row turns <> kit -"i ch. Fourth row. — 1 ho., I tr., 1 ho., 7 ! tr., 2 ho.. 7 tr.. 7 ho.. 7 tr 2 ho.. 7 tr.. I 1 ho.. \ tr... lho. i Fifth row. 1 ho.. In tr.. 2 ho., 7 tr.. J <) ho.. 7 tr.. 2 ho.. 10 tr.. 1 ho. ! Sixth Row.— 1 ho.. 1 tr., 2 ho.. 7 tr.. ! :\ he. I tr. :! ho., I tr.. 3 ho.. 7 tr.. I 2 ho.. 7 tr.. 1 ho. Seventh row. 1 ho., f tr.. 2 ho., 7 I tr.. 2 ho.. 7 tr . 1 ho , 1 tr.. 1 ho.. I tr., 1 ho. 7 tr., 2 ho.. 7 tr.. 2 1m... I I tr.. 1 ho. Eighth row. I ho.. I tr., 1 ho.. ', 1 tr.. :i ho., lo tr., 1 ho., IH tr. :( ho., 7 tr. 1 ho., t tr.. 1 ho. Ninth row. - 1 ho, Id tr.. 2 ho.. 7 tr.. 1 ho., ID tr , 1 ho., ID tr.. 1 ho.. 7 tr.. 2 ho.. 10 tr., 1 ho. Tenth row.- 1 ho.. 7 tr.. .1 ho., 10 tr., 1 ho., 7tr.. 1 ho.. 7 tr.. 1 ho., 10 i tr.. :i ho., 7 tr., 1 Im. 1 Eleventh row.—l ho.. 7 tr.. 2 ho., 1 I tr.. 1 ho.. 10 tr.. 1 ho.. -1 tr., .1 lio.. J t tr. 1 ho.. Ultr., 1 bo-. 1 tr.. 2 ho.. 7 tr.. 1 ho. Twelfth row.- 1 ho., 7 tr.. :\ ho.. If) tr.. 1 ho., 1 tr.. 1 ho., Hi tr.. :i ho.. 7 tr.. 1 "no. Thirteenth row.- 1 ho., 7 tr.. S ho.. 10 tr.. 8 ho.. 7 tr.. 1 ho. Fourteenth row. —Same as twelfth row. Fifte.'-fh row. - Same as eleventh row. and continue workmg backwards until the second row is reached. Then work 2o hob's and the square is finished. For the edge, work 2 d.e. into every hole and 1 d.e. on the >titch between the holes and 7 d.e. into each corner i hole. _

FILIST INITIAL ;-U« AVE. To make 'he filet inici il -..uaro illustrated with the lette: '1" u the centre. No. _ in group, coin.:: -.v.'c with Si cha'n. Fir.»t row.—l tr. in Stli eh. from noodle * ; 2 0h... niU- 2 oh., 1 tr. into next chain; repeat from * 23 times, making 2o holes in all; turn, ■"> oil. Second row.—2cli., miss 2 oh., 1 tr. into next: repeat 24 t'mes, making 2j hoh> in all. Third row.—Same ;)>• la-t row: turn, .leh. Fourth How.-12 ho.. 1;) tr.. 12 ho.; turn. 5 cli. Fifth row.—ll ho., 7 tr.. :) ho.. I tr., S ho. ; turn. ■"> oh. Sixth row. 10 ho., 7 tr.. ■"> ho., I tr.. 7 ho. ; turn, o oh. i Seventh row. 1 Mm.. 7 tr.. 2 ho., 1 ! tr.. 2 1i0..!tr.. 7 ho. ; turn. •"> oh. Kiulith row.- Hi h 0... 7 tr.. :i ho., 7 | tr.. * ho. : turn, 5 oh. Ninth row. -in ho.. 7 tr.. 1.1 ho: turn. 3 oil. Tenth row. 10 ho., 7 tr.. 1:1 ho. : I turn. ■"> oh. Eleventh row. 10 ho.. 7 ir.. 1:1 ho.: ' torn, 3 eh. I Twelfth row. in ho.. 7 tr.. 1:1 ho., turn, o cli. Thirteenth row. - 10 ho., ' tr.. 1-1 ho. : turn. •") oh. Fourteenth row. - 10 ho., 10 tr . 10 | ho.: turn. ■"> oh. ! Fifteenth row.-[i h 0... 10 tr., 2ho . 7 tr.. '•> ho.: turn, ■"> cli. | Sixteenth row.- 1 - ho., t tr.. 1 ho.. 7 i tr.. :i ho.. 7 tr., s im.: turn. •"> • h. ■ Sovt ntoenth row.—7 ho., i tr.. 2 ho.. : 7 tr.. ! ho.. I tr., - ho. : turn. .*> oh. Fifteenth row. -0 ho , I tr.. :* ho.. ' 7 t,-.. 1 ho.. I tr.. * ho.: turn. ■"> cli. Nineteenth row. (> ho.. I tr.. :f ho.. 7 tr :l im., 1 tr.. P ho.: turn. '< ih. ! • Twentieth row. 10 ho.. 7 tr.. I ho.. 7 tr.. 10 ho.: turn. ■"> oh. Twenty-first row. 10 ho.. 1:5 tr.. 11 I ... ; turn ■"> oh. I Twontv-seconil row. - 10 ho., , tr.. i I:', I il : turn, ."> oh. j Twenty-third row. 2*. ho.: turn. '"twolU\-fourth row. 2o ho. : turn. S eh. Twenty-fifth row. 2 . ho.: turn. Next, work ail round the ediie _ 1 ,1c ; nto lsl ho'e, 1 oh., I d.c into <i,nii nlaee. Rweat from ' into next 1,,,],, . m .l twice into each oornei hiten off. Haviim-ioveeded in workup <'»<' '"■ ;.:,! ;, n \ wom-in with a knowledge -I ,'.,,'„ i.,.t work ...mU. ii.. .lou'.t. «'ii-i-y mo,o for horM.li' , lihi *oua.o mt,v ,v,-n with anv other mil al |>ivforivd.

Tin- article illustrated. Xo. •'< in ■rroup. i- :i handkerchief cum- of linen, nWrU-d with tliroe filet squares No. I is a linen head-ro-t to be -dipped over tin- top of an easy (hair, and ag.rn three lilet squares are inserted in the |i non: mid No. 5 is a hotter p-mushi«m to hi- made of coloured -ill and overlaid with a large filet squni-o. Xo. I; illustration depicts a sachet ca.-c ol satin inserted with two initial sqn.'ire< in the flan: and No. 7 reprints a silk or satin hand hap;, or knitting Imiit. with a big initial square on the front. TO OBTAIN PATTF.KX3. Patterns of nil the dosimw rppear- : inn in this rnli.mn, we.«k l>\ week, (..,„ do nhtained by sending; stamps, vilue 7d fro every pattern required (Voit -kirt. h'ons'e. one-p : eee gown. Ptc.).'in Mi- Ida Meller, Care of Tin, I'Jitor The envelope should be 'marked "Patterns."