Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 4, Issue 113, 26 November 1915, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

By IDA MELLER

THE RUSSIAN BLOUSE. One of the reasons why women are able to dress well at small cost is that fashion favours tintrunmed frocks and blouses, and practically no outlay is necessary for trimmings. A little line of hem-stitching on the collar of a blouse, and again where a ruagyar sleeve is united to the lower part, is a great improvement on the or. dmary method of seaming, and gives quite a trimmed appearance, and again, it is specially effective in connection with raglan sleeve* and yokes and their union to the blouse proper. A navy-blue voile blouse not only looks well hem-stitched with its own colour, but also with white, which makes an effective change from the one-colour scheme. Black blouses with white hemstitching are equally successful. Among new blouse fashions, the most conspicuous models are those made in the Russian style, which are no less lovely than novel, and are at the same time extremely simple. They are made in linen, canvas, or silk, in Russian colours, and the chief thing about them is that they are worn outside the skirt —that is, if the blouse* are cut to bin

length, for Home of them are shorter, and these may eithet full over the skirt, or be tucked in at the waist. Some very useful blouses are in Russian blue (which colour wears well and h most becoming), and are made in a coarse quality ot linen. Hose-coloured blouses are also lovely, and it is optional whether these and the blue ones be provided with square yokes of ttieir own material or biscuit-coloured canvas. In cither case, the yoke will be applique with embroidery in mixed Russian colours.

An example of a Russian blouse is illustrated that would develop well in dark blue canvas, with yoke and borders embroidered in Russian blues and reds on a cream ground. The paper pattern is in four pieces, including half the front, one back, one sleeve, and half the yoke. The quantity of 42-inch material required for the blouse is about 2\ yard;?. The yoke could be merely indicate-! rtitu embroidery on the blue background or might be, .ts suggested, of cream material; or again it might be of coarse white lace, worked in coloured wools or nax.

As the diagram indicates, the blousematerial should be folded in half length-wise, and the straight edge oi front pattern laid to the fold. Tiie sleeve and back patterns must each !,? cut out in duplicate. The Moi;s?, as w'll be seen lrom the small sketch, fastens at the back with buttons.

The straight edge of yoke pa tiers representing the centre-front of yoke, must be laid to a fold of material, .vheii the yoke is cut from separate stuff to Hie blouse, the whole yoke being cut out in one piece. A pretty effect is airived at when the embroidery, or applique, from the yoke strays upon the shoulders of the blouse. Wher something more dressy than linen or canvas is required, Shantung silk, black or coloured, may be recommended for the blouse, the pattern ot which adapts itself to all materials, whet Tier of silk, cotton or wool, and therefore to all occasions.

AN "EMfflfME" OVERALL. It must be apparent to all. that women wear their clothes with a difference. While some are so i-nrcful in regard to their apparel that their frocks of two years ago are pi aetically unsdled, and in good condition, otiiers wear their costumes shabby in a few mojlths.

It is not bo much the hard wear given to clothes as the failure to brush them before putting them away, to shake them free of dust after each time of weaf'ng. or to give the "stitch in tune" that causes tlictn to lose their freshness speedily; and again a careless disregard for folding them neatly or for hanging them up after use, is at the root of much of the trouble causea by clothes wearing shabby "before their tune."

The economical, wise woman looks alter her frocks and costumes both when wearing tlicin and putting tnem awav alter use.

Tiie best way to preserve house-dress-es is by means u, ;ii: overall, which should always lie worn when dusting and other household work is engaged in. A dies, will List clean twice as long i| it 's protected from soil bv the help of a household apron or an overall, and realising this, housewives include one sueu garment as a matter of course m their everyday wardrobes.

The simple and becoming Empire overall illustrated i« thoroughly protective and is more dainty in appearance than the ordinal* zephyr plain or printed sateen, or blue linen, wit't band.-, of galuu at the neck and else-

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where, it might be as becoming as a morinng frock. The short bodice is gathered to the skirt beneath a stitched-on waist-band

No. 1885. of galon, a. pocket, Wth galon border, is added to the apron, and the garment fastens at tiic back.