Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 4, Issue 110, 19 November 1915, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

FOR PRESENT SEASON WEAR.

Tho advantage of the umbrella skirt over the simple, full one, gathered or pleated injg the_wai.st. is that all superfluous bulk at the waistline is avoided, and this is always desirable. Nevertheless, the gathered and the pleated skirt are agreeable changes from the popular umbrella model, and these can be rendered quite comfortable and devoid of unnecessary weight at the waist by introducing a hip-yoke or, in the case of an all-in-one dress, a deep bodice that reaches to the hips and fife the figure comfortably without a pleat of any kind. The skirt is gathered or pleated to the yoke or longwaisted bodice, and' thus all inconvenience Is avoided. This plan answers admirably and is adopted in the dress illustrated, which is a smart but simple model for present-season wear. The bodice is long and easy-fitting, and is buttoned in front, and the neck is cut somewhat low, and a cambric hem-stitched collar is added. At the hips, the bodice, wmch is provided with Amg sleeves, buttoned on the outside at the wrists, is met by a band of its own material and is united to the skirt, which is pleated, but gathers might be substituted, if preferrerd. A deep hem finishes the skirt at the foot.

If a placket is required in the skirt, this should be made beneath the front pleat, but it may be that the bodice is

sufficiently long to dispense with the need of a skirt placket. This charming frock, which could easily be made at home, would work out well in navy suiting, serge or grey cloth. A popular hat of the moment is the silk sailor as sketched, tnmmedi with a single rose, posed in front, or at the left side, near the edge of the brim. The silk sailor hat is charming in grey, navy-blue, wine-red, brown, or the ever-useful black. It is narrow in the brim, and tho crown is round and soft or rather squarish in shape and somewhat low; but another type of sailor hat, made of straw and 6ilk, is inclined to follow the torpedo-shape outline, the torpedo hat in rice-straw, with soft turne'd-up brim as high as the crown itself and clinging closely to the latter, being one of the newest fancies in millinery. Numbers of hats are crowned entirely with flowei'6 or foliage, others are trimmed round the crown with smaT posies of flowers, placed at regular intervals apart. This mode of trimming is much 'used on sailor hats, both of silk and straw. Small truite arc other novel fancies for hat-trimmings.

A SUMMER TOILET JACKET. Many girls who, are not sufficiently skilled in dressmaking to make up their own coats and* skirts, are yet capable of making 6uch things as drc^ing-jack-

ets, dre*!iiy-yowns, and so oil. wind arc quite .simple to deal with, and can ho successfully tinned out hy even thy niubt inexperienced needle woman.

By IDA MELLER - -

Copyright,

Dressing - jackets arc particularly easy to inaKe, especially those built, j's so uiany oi tlieui now are, on tiie Kimono or magyar pattern, wmeu lends ltscn to var-ety in tue wearing, inasmuch as the dressing-jacket cut irom it may be belted or hang loose and may tasten on the bhouldcis or in tront. For summer toilet jacket*, there is a choice ot pretty striped, Uoirerea, and plain voiles, in various colours, delaiue», muslins, a nd cotton crepe*, any ot winch materials might jje used lor the simple dressing-jacKet illustrated. A diagram ot the paper pattern is also sketched.

This latter is in one piece, representing hall the jacket ; but as tne stutf used will probably not be wide enough to cut the whole jacket in one piece, each sleeve must have a join to eke out width. A space is marked out on diar gram, which latter represents two yards of 46-inch material iolded lengthwise, tor the added sleeve-piece, this being cut in duplicate. If the jacket is preferred with short sleeves, the added pieces can be omitted. Care must &e taken when cutting the added pieces that the (straight line of join comes on the straight ot material.

A pretty feature of the jacket is selftrimming at the neck, where natural revers take the place of a collar. At the hack, the material must be split to the uepth of about a couple oi inches to form the revere. These and the front ones should be faced with self.mat.nal or washing silk. The dotted lines on diagram 6iiggest the revers. ihe pattern must be laid on the material so that the bank-centre is close against the fold, in order to avoia a seam.

A pretty finish to the jacket given by two ribbon strings fixed to ribbon buttons.

Another very simple type of toilet jacket is cut from a big square of muslin, or other material, with a, circle cut for the neck and a split made in the stuff for the front opening. The points of the square give a pretty, graceful air to the little jacket, and 1 sometimes a tassel is added in each tip, or an nil-round binding of coloured riobon is added to the wrapper, which finished with ribbon strings to close the fronte.