Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 4, Issue 96, 15 October 1915, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

By IDA MELLER

A COATLESS COSTUME OF SERGE

The dress that is made with openfronted bodice has the advantage that it is easily rendered adaptable" isince the front that fills in the gap can be changed at will and be at one time of soft muslin, at another of brocade, Uraid-embroidery and so on. It is useful, therefore, to have by one a dress with bodice that boasts of a detachable front. A blue serge frock so made is particularly serviceable—or marine blue cotton-poplin might be substituted and is useful for spring wear. The open-fronted bodice might deviate to a point at the waist or the opening be as wide thereabouts as at the neck, and occasionally, instead of a full firont, a shaped vest might lie employed, made of the djress material, scooped out very low at the neck, and revealing above it a guimpe of net or lace. The vest might bear a simple trimming of wee butterfly bows along the centre front.

Another change could be effected by the introduction of a plaque of richlyflowered yelvet-riblion in lieu of a vest, this, again, showing a guimpe above it.

The frock or coatless costume with open-fronted bodice illustrated is very well suited to serge, and would be useful for indoor or outdoor wear. The skirt is one of the new pleated patterns, arranged with a flat panel in front and fine kilts at each side, the whole setting very smartly. The bodice, of which the diagram of the paper pattern is given, is made with loose, parted fronts mounted to a fitted lining, and a filling-in of soft material, gathered at the neck and waist, is added.

The papa(r pattern of the bodice proper is in four parts, namely, one front, half the back, one sleeve and

the collar. These pieces should be kid on 1 3-8 yards of 48-inch stuff, folded lengthwise, the straight edge of back pattern laid to the fold to avoid a seam. The other pieces are cut out m duplicate. , , ~ ... The three pieces of the bodice lining, consisting of one front (with darts), half the back, and half the basque to which the whole bodice is finally sewn, should be laid on 1J yards of 30-inch sateen, folded in half lengthwise the straight edge of back laid to the fold, and the other pieces ctu out in dupliThe smallest diagram shows the halfpattern of the full front supposedly laid on 5-8 yaird of 18in. to 20in. muslin or other soft material, the centrefront laid to a fold of stuff to avoid a seam. The dots at the corners of this vest-piece correspond with a similar mark on the lower pattern, whue the single dot on front of basque correspond with similar marks on the lower front corner of bodice lining, and the twin dot* at back of basque should attach themselves to those at the back of bodice lining. When the basque is cut out and the two parts are seamedl at the back, the basque should be hemmed all round. Bodice and lining are united at the side seams and on the snoulders. It the sleeves are lined, the linings should be cut on the sleeve pattern. The oodice is trimmed with buttons and blind button-holes. A RAGLAN INVERNESS COAT FOR A GIRL. One of the necessary items of a girl's wardtrobe is a wrap-coat, which, according to the special purpose for which it is designed, may be of woollen or silken material. Thus, if the wrap-coat be, primarily, for school wear or for the everyday walk elsewhere it will, naturally, be of some serviceable, stout mater al, such as cloth or serge; but if it be for smarter occasions, the coat may vetry well be made of tussore silk or possibly of black satin—a favourite material for " best" coats, for little girls, the satin being of the wool-back kind. Dark plaid materials, again, are useful for girls' coats, a dark green ground with a yellow line about it looking very well, especially when made up with a collar and cuffs of plain green stuff. For girls' wear, capes and cape effects are generally becoming, and bearing out the theory are various of the new coats for girls between the ages of nine and fourteen years. Some of the wraps are for dull days and hard wear, others for bright and dressy occasions. Among them are coato with Inverness capes, after the fashion of the coat sketched, which, beneath the Inverness, boasts long sleeves, of the coat material, which adti greatly to the practical nature of the design.

Copyright.

The capes are put in with raglan tops, and the coat fastens with large, round buttons in front and is belted low. At the neck is a collar faced witn

velvet or satin, and the cuffs to the long sleeves correspond with the collar. Or the collar and cuffs might be faced with cloth ol a different colour to the coat.

As a cool, summer wrap, the coat would be useful in natural-coloured Shantung, with brown collar n.nd cuffs.