Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 4, Issue 90, 1 October 1915, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

By IDA MELLER - - Copyright.

A SPRING COSTUME COAT. COAT.

The vogue in mixed materials is one that is very pleasing for more than one reason to women who must needs economise in matters of the wardrobe. The special convenience of the dress composed of two materials is, that it enables short lengths of stuff to be used up to advantage, and here is the opportunity for remnants which, not sufficient, perhpas, torn ake a complete costume individually, may yet serve well enouga for a coat or a skirt.

Thee ooat of one material and skirt or another are seen a great deal in conjunction, and very smart are costumes with black cloth coat-i and shepherd's plaid skirts, or voce versa, the skirt material, maybe, repeated on the collar and cuffs.

A pretty feature of the newer coa.ts is the square-cut neck, that forms quite an attractive change from the more usual pointed neck. There is much, besides, to admire in the new coat-fash-ions, which are very much in favour of shortness. Some are loose-fitting and hang full, others are of the more severe tailored type. Amongt he latter class is the smart little coat illustrated, which should not be beyond the powers of the home dressmaker to copy.

the short waist is also conspicuous, for numbers of the new umbrella skirts are cut with corselet waists and not a few of the smart little coats of the season are also short-waisted in style. By which it will be seen that fashions, at least so far as waists are concerned, are amply v=uied, and all'figures can be suited.

The changes that have come about in fashions have not ousted the one-piece frock from favour. It remains as popular as ever, and accommodates itseif delightfully to the new full skirts and simple bodices. >lany a time it is made with a corselet "umbrella" skirt and pinafore bodice, joined to one moth »r at the waist-line; and again it is nil in thy pinafore style, or made with a plastron front and skirt gathered or pleated at the sides. Apron and pinafore effects are very popular. The frock illustrated shows a novel design with apron front, suitable for serge, cloth, tussore silk, or other washing material. The apron is hemmed all round and shaped to a point and starts from the hips, the skirt being gathered at the waist. The bodice is made with raglan sleeves and fastens in front with buttons and button-holes, the neck having a turn-over collar finished with a satin bow matching the waist-band.

The pattern pieces are seven in all. These comprise one front, one sidefront, half the back, one side-back, one upper of sleeve one under of sleeve, and the collar. These pattern pieces should be laid on 2j yards of 44-inch material, folded lengthwise, as suggesteded by the diagram. Lay the straight edge of back of coat to the fold, thus avoiding a centre seam, and cut on the other pieces in duplcate. A careful study of the diagram and the various notches on the pattern pieces, will readily make it clear to the young dressmaker how to put the coat together. In seaming the fronts to the sides, turn in the front edges and tack them a quarter of an inch from the edge, and follow the same plan with the back seams finally stitching the seams at the line of tacking threads.- Finish the aIL round edge of the coat (turned in, of course," with a line of stitching. A great many coats are worn tinlined, but if a lining is preferred, cut it from polonaise or Jap silk on the coat pattern, seam it apart, .and slip-stitch it to the coat. Make buttonholes in the right front, sew buttons to the leftfront, and trim the sleeves with buttons. The high collar looks well lined with a different material, and for the purpose of collar linings and facings, pretty flowered silks and velvets are fashionable.

THE NEW APRON-FROCK

It seems, there is a certain hesitancy on the part of dressmakers as to where exactly to place this seasons's waistline. The long waist still obtains on