Fashion and Things Feminine.

Pukekohe & Waiuku Times, Volume 4, Issue 16, 26 February 1915, Page 3 (Supplement)

Fashion and Things Feminine.

By IDA MELLER

THE COAT FOR EVERY GIRL. The elasticity of present-day modes, that allow.? ot skirts and tunica, or coats, worn together, being entirely at variance as regards colour and material, is a feature that commends itself especially to ■Economical dressing, and is us. ful 111 case of renovations. It would be quite in accordance with fashion for the coat illustrated to match tho skirt worn with it or to be of fancy surface while the skirt were plain. A coat of th s sort answers well w hen a walking skirt needs leugthning and is possibly worn out at the hem. It would bo an easy matter to cut off the worn part, make a fresh hem, and mount the skirt at the top to a yoke of differen substance of the required depth, the coat covering the yoke completely. DETAILS OF THE PATTERN. The pattern pieces of the coat are indicated by the; diagram, and as, 110 doubt, many girls will be glad to copy such a coat as this for themselves, it may be well to add a few particulars on tho making up of the same. The quantity of 424-1 inch mater'al required is three yards. There are in ail six pieces of the paper pattern. These include one front bodice, one sleeve, the collar, half the back of bodice, half the back of basque, one side-front of basque. Spaces are marked out on diagram for the lacking sleeve, bodice front, and side-front or basque.

In arranging the material for the pattern pieces, open out part of it to its full width and 011 this lay patterns of bodice-front, s'de-front of basque, and collar, as shown by diagram, on which are indicated the two duplicate nieces.

The remaineler or the material, after l>eing opened out, should be folded over lengthwise at one side, to a depth sufficient to take the pattern half-back of basque. On tlrs double material also must lie laid the l>ack of bodice, the straight edges of basque and bodice being laid to the fold, so that seams are avoided and the entire back of basque and bodice are each cut out in a single niece.

In the single material, beyond the folded piece, is laid the sleeve pattern, and its duplicate should be cut out below.

It is qui girl with

ite an easy matter for any 'the average knowledge of

dressmaking to put the coat together, the various notches in the pattern giving the clue as to which pieces to join together. Tho elotied lines on basquefront and bodice-trout designate the, centre-front of these parts, which must lio on the stra ; ght of material. Baxjue and Ixielice. after each has Iron seamed tip, are join.d at the waist, where a little easing is given to the bodice, and a belt is afterward-; added. The coat is trimmed with three fancy buttons and fastens invisibly with stud-grips. The collar is faced with' satin. A lining shiuld be added to the coat, anel this should be of polonaise, or same such fabric, cut on the coat pattern but seamed apart from the coat and .s!ip- •. titched to the latter. THE INDISPENSABLE VEST AND OTHER TRIFLES. Among the indispensable trifles of the faminine toilette are vests and iineler-f-leeves, anel an under-bodice of one sort or another, that will conceal the corsettop ami act as n. support to the blouse above The vest may be a mere bib or more important, fashioned wiih arniholes: or again it may lie in the nature of a yoke or cbenrs.tte with sleeve-:. Lace, spotted net. and plain 11 v t. tu;ked. aro tho u-'Kil components of the-e useful Tittle acessories. some of which are sketch eel. A small vest or a chemisette may app sir a very simple thing, but withouta good pattern to cut by. the young dressmaker i.s apt to go astray 111 the shaping if the neck, armhole-s, and so on. No 1 in group is a fichu of lawn edg-<-d with lace and frill*-< lat th neck—a verv useful addition to a dre.ss-bodi( e. No. 2 i.s a chemisette with armhoTes and is intended ..for net with a lace front. This sort of chemisette sets well. No. 7 (bottom right-hand corner of group) is another chemisette of net and lace, with long sleeves, and No. G is a 1 a<si vest, consisting merely of a back and front, with a waist-string and loops to keep it taut. No. P i.s a fashionable front of lawn with llcdici frill and inserted frill of

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lace, and No. 9 is a sleeve-frill to match with lawn attachment.

Nos. 3 and 4 .show twi of the newsleeves. suitable for transparent fabrics, and tho two sketches numbered 5 are one and tho same article, namely a cor-

NO. 1807, set cover, or underbodice that. may be worn in two ways, the bow-tie being useful where thin figures are concerned. This dainty little under-bodice is of lace-trimmed lawn, the only seams being under the arms. The tapering ends allow the bodice to be wrapped round the figure, as illustrated on model, and should be buttoned at the back.