THE GARDEN.

Putaruru Press, Volume II, Issue 42, 7 August 1924, Page 2

THE GARDEN.

VEGETABLE CULTURE. (By W. C. Hyde, in the Journal of Agriculture.) Peas sown, and lettuce, cabbage and broccoli planted out in late autumn should now receive every attention to bring them along to early maturity. If not already done, plant out autumn-sown onions, shallots and garlic, and sow peas, lettuce, radishes and main-crop onions—for preference on areas devoted to root crops and celery last season. The parsnip main crop, early carrots and white turnip, as well as the early potato crop, which should be sown and planted now, are best allotted to the heavilymanured areas which have been carrying cabbage, broccoli, etc. Cabbage and cauliflower plants sown earlier should be planted out as soon as ready; for them the land cannot be too rich.

Rhubarb beds will be coming into growth and should receive liberal treatment. A heavy dressing of stable manure and 3cwt of superphosphate per acre will suit the average beds. Follow this up with one or two applications, at intervals, of nitrate of soda, 2icwf to the acre (loz to the square yard). After a bed has been down for four years or so it should be taken up and a fresh plantation made. Old stools from such a bed may now be lifted, cut up, and planted out into a piece of wellprepared land. Work in a dressing of superphosphate before planting. Asparagus beds require a somewhat similar generous treatment. Where nothing has yet been done clean up the beds and apply a good dressing of partly-decayed stable manure, following this up in August with 2oz each of superphosphate and sulphate of potash to the square yard. Applications of nitrate of soda and salt, of which this plant is fond, are best deferred for the present. If it is intended to plant out new beds prepare the land now for planting out in early September; seed, or plants two or three years old, may be used. As such beds have to remain dawn for some years they should be made deep and rich, remembering that the plant likes abundant moisture during the growing season; it also requires perfect drainage. Tomatoes.—Where a tomato crop is to be grown under glass the plants will now be well under way. Every advantage should be taken of fine warm weather to admit air and keep the plants firm and sturdy. Before planting them out towards the end of August lightly work in a dressing of chemical manures. Where the usual practice of growing and turning in a green crop has been observed no nitrogenous manures will be required at this stage, the tomato plant not being a gross feeder. A mistake under this heading usually leads to sterility and liability to many troubles, including black stripe, which under such circumstances is difficult to control. A usual dressing* a! this stage consists of 7oz superphosphate and 4oz sulphate of potash to each three square yards. Where the preparation of the lane? has been delayed the soil is often loose and free, and plants set in such ground have their growths checked for a time. The tomato prefers a firm bed. Set the plants rather deep and firmly in the ground.

For outside culture tomato seed may be sown now in boxes and raised in a frame on a hotbed. It is at such a time as this that a well-conditioned compost is of value. Such soil is of the right mechanical condition and contains suitable plant foods. Of a correct moisture, sweet, and free from insect and fungus troubles seedlings make uninterrupted progress in such a soil. On the other hand, soil taken direct from the garden and mixed with decaying vegetation and manures immediately before sowing is usually unsuitable; seedlings damp off and experience many infantile troubles that are annoying; results from such plants are very uneven.

The hotbed, too, is often hastily prepared, and as a result the temperature is uneven and of brief duration. Have the materials on hand in good time and place them in a compact heap to heat. After a few days, when this has taken place, the (material must be shaken out and restacked, watering* any portions that are dry. When it has heated up again repeat the operation, and in a few days it should be of an even consistency and ready for use. In building* the bed, stack the materials evenly and tread them down firm. In a few days a steady heat will again have generated, when the frame can be put into position and the hotbed will be ready for use. Such a bed will maintain a steady heat for a longperiod and give good service. Kumaras.—A place in such a frame is just the requisite position for starting kumaras. As stated in the Department’s Bulletin No. 78, in the month of August tubers of the previous season’s growth should be laid close together—but not touching—on

a lin layer of clean sand, and then covered' to a depth of 4in with a sandy loam, or, more preferably, clean sand, and kept moderately moist. In four or five weeks’ time the buds will have sprouted, and when the young shoots are Gin in length they are carefully removed and heeled closely in a well-sheltered and sunny position, and provision made so that they may be readily covered with scrim should there be any danger of frost; However, in the case of this crop a glass sashlight can be dispensed with if it is not available, and a good calico cover used instead. Early and second early potatoes should be got in as soon as the land is ready.' A dressing of 3cwt superphosphate and li cwt sulphate of potash per acre, hoed in just before planting, is of great assistance. Put the hoe through again as soon as the plants show above the ground. SMALL FRUITS. Where it is intended to plant straw-

berries the work should now be taken in hand without delay. It is necessary that the land be clean and in good heart; the first condition is most important, and planting should not be proceeded with without it. In such a case sow a temporary crop and complete the cleaning* of the land. As to the second condition, if there is any doubt, work in a good dressing of blood and bone manure. Spare no effort to get strong welT-rooted plants of the right kind free from disease. Leaf-spo£~is one of the commonest troubles; at the first sign of it spray with bordeaux 4-4-40 formula. The growing of the edible passionfruit is now receiving more attention. Seed sown during* the autumn will now have developed into good strong plants, which will be ready for their

permanent quarters in September. As with all permanent crops, the ground requires special preparation, for only superficial cultivation can be given later. To stand heavy cropping this plant requires generous treatment. This preparation should be completed during the coming month. The Cape gooseberry is in considerable demand as a conserve, and those who have light well-drained sunny slopes would find it a profitable crop. Plants should be ready for planting out towards the end of October; sow the seeds now and place the boxes on a hotbed. Also commence the preparation of the land for the plants’ reception, turning in any weeds or other vegetation growing there so that they may have time to rot before planting. Beds that cropped last season and are to be cropped again this year may be allowed to remain as they are for the present, until the danger of hard frosts is passed. The litter will protect the new shoots to some extent meanwhile.

Bush-fruits that have not yet had their winter bordeaux spray should receive it now. If the plants have started into growth weaken the mixture to, say, 4-4-40.

TOBACCO-CULTURE. Tobacco—for smoking purposes—is now being grown extensively in some districts. It is very noticeable at the moment that the best leaf in the past season’s crop was grown from plants that matured early—about the end of January. These plants were from seed sown early in August and planted out in October. The success of this crop depends so much on the critical period between germination and transplanting that too much care cannot be given to the preparation and management of the seed beds. Many of the troubles with weeds and fungus diseases would doubtless be overcome if the practice were in vogue that is general in the tobaccogrowing sections of the United States and has been adopted by some of the more successful growers in Australia. It is that of burning the land to be used as a seed-bed, and is described as follows:—“ The land for the seed-bed should be cleared of rubbish and then burnt. As too much of the soil organic matter will possibly be burnt if the lire rests directly on the surface, poles of 3in or so in diameter should be placed across the plot to carry the fire, and on these fuel, such as dry bushes, straw, etc., will be piled to a height of 4ft. The lire should be started on the lee side of the heap to ensure a slow burn. The unburnt pieces of fuel should afterwards be raked oil’. 21b superphosphate (or bonedust) and 11b nitrate of soda (or sulphate of ammonia) should be applied to the bed (1 yard wide by 9 yards long, sufficiently big to grow plants for an acre), and the land then worked finely to a depth of 3in or 4in.” This operation should be carried out when the land is normally dry; land too wet for cultivation is too wet for burning. Seed-beds on an easy slope facing the north, well sheltered, and sterilised in tins manner should grow early plants if protected with a good calico or hessian cover. Used with discrimination, such a cover will prevent the bed drying after the seed is sown —an event that must not be allowed to happen—and also be a great protection against frost. If not already commenced, preparation of the land for the tobacco crop

should be got under way; it takes time as well as labour to get soil into a clean friable condition with all the vegetable matter well rotted down. In selecting areas for this crop it is to be remembered that it is not the heaviest land which is best. The The lighter-coloured tobaccos that are in demand do best on a mediumquality porous soil. For those unaccustomed to this crop it may be mentioned that it is usual to sow an even tablespoonful of seed to 50 square yards. To distribute it satisfactorily mix it with a pint of meal, sand or ashes. After sowing, the seed should not be covered, but pressed into the ground firmly with a board or roller. Frame the seed beds round with boards placed on edge to a height of 6in and cover with a hessian cloth.

HEDGES. A green live hedge in good condition and suitably placed can be highly ornamental and of great utility. Difficulty is sometimes experienced in keeping such hedges in condition; investigation has shown many hedges to be thin and weak, and frequently heavily parasitised by insect blights. In most instances the primary cause is heavy cutting at unseasonable periods of the year. Should such drastic treatment be necessary it is most important to perform the operation at the right season. For deciduous hedge plants any time during the dormant period is suitable, while evergreens requiring heavy cutting should be dealt with in early spring. At that period hedges infected with insect parasites should be trimmed close in and the clippings burnt. The hedge should be afterwards immediately sprayed thoroughly with a good insecticide, repeating the application again iii about a fortnight. Most hedges may of course be trimmed during the summer, but on such occasions it is usual to trim back the growth of the current season only. LAWNS AND GREENS. Most of our summer sports demand a smooth even turf for satisfactory performances. Such a high condition cannot be obtained satisfactorily by hasty work at the last moment. It is best to join forces with nature and give what assistance is necessary in the early spring. Weak lawns will require a topdressing of a good compost, which should be prepared some time before it is applied, and should consist chiefly of a clean fresh loam with a generous admixture of chemical fertilisers. Thoroughly rake over the green before applying it. The benefit a green receives from the frequent application of a heavy poller is generally understood, but too often it is put off till the season’s play is about to commence, when perhaps more harm than good is done by generous hosing and the almost endless use l of the roller. Such attentions should be commenced now while the ground is really damp. On light Soils especially the commencement can hardly be too early, as long as the frost is out of the ground. Ample rolling from time to time during the spring*, with occasional applications of chemiclil fertilisers in solution, will result in a turf that will stand a lot of hard wear in the summer.