PARIS FASHIONS.

Poverty Bay Standard, Volume IX, Issue 933, 9 April 1881, Page 2 (Supplement)

PARIS FASHIONS.

The surplice or cassock mantle is now fairly introduced, but no longer is worn in its pristine ugliness. A quilling of lace down the front and round the throat,' with a bright-lining takes off much of the universitarian aspect,- and add to it a Mother Hubbard look which is quaint and humorous. The “Grannie” bonnets and • hats were equally unbecoming objects, until the full soft crowns Were made as now r of satin and-the stiff rims .covered with soft light-colored fur. Tudor bonnets, however, with caul' crowns, have undergone most pleasing modifications. The coif of the Tudors has a brim which is adorned with feathers and very large cut beads, aud -it eau be made entirely ■of plush, which is ah undeniable advantage at present. The furore for.plush can only be compared to that for Spanish lace. ItA’s made up over skirts of every hue and over plain muslin. Next to SptmisH'Jfoce the novelty is a lace-woven cuirass, made of all shades; it ia a kind of evening jersey without sleeves;, and is put on over a colored or Whiter tinder bodice. A new sleeve is now always in demand. The prettiest at present .is for a robe de ville. It can be of any material employed, but the make is best demonstrated by cashmere and plush. The sleeve is full from.the armhole, and gathered horizontally in seven rows, when a puff of plush, is set in, after the puff or plush another band of gathers, and- so on alternately down to the elbow, where a large’ puff is required ; there again the gathered cashmere bauds are drawn in to the size of the arm, with smaller puffs of plush dowd to * the J Ahst, on which part Sits' a tight ctHf. Two shades of one cbkn* are worn —for inf stance,., garnet and ,pi.nk,t cream,, apd old gold, purple arid violet. 'Red'Hi'all its shades, tfrom scarlet to brick, from crimson to Vermillion, is quite uni ver-; sal. Ladies who are recognised leaders tin the -1 fashionable ■ world wcarited feathers QU red plush hats, and at the chateaux during the recent festive gaietiesj red cloth mantles - enlivened the leafless promenades. " Plaid plush is also employed, this being even more gaudy than red. Underskirts are somewhat fuller. Tournures have returned, and may develop extensively, as draperies and kilting under the waist line are a feature of the new coming styles. The runners formerly made with a coulisse for tape are now drawn in by means of steel. Large standing collars, with flat ones of plush, are sold separately for the finish off of plain bodices. Trains are also sold separately, and are intended for wear over short silk or satin skirts. ! They are lined with the brighter of the two colors employed; and 1 this lining is frequently of plush. The wrap most admired for sortie de loge is of cheriillle shot with tinsels. Fichus are very elaborately made of satin and pluph. Bands of machine-made embroidery on velvet and flannel-area great? help in the trimming of full-dress robes and of undergarments.

Lady Vogel has made some talk in English society. Our London correspondent writes: “ Sandown has seen its last meeting for the year 1880, and the occupation of the sporting man is gone until after New Year. Mrs. Brassey will have to exhibit her cloth-of-gold elsewhere, and Lady Vogel must wait until after January 6 for an opportunity to cut her out—a vain attempt, as that expensive “ millionaress,” as the Americans call it, can out-dress a host of the smaller fry of the fashionable world. Lady Vogel, however, has succeeded in bringing her name prominently to the front in the society journals.” A lady correspondent sends the following notes on the English Christmas fashions Mother Hubbafdt cloaks were started to supersede the hooded ulsters, but have rapidly dropped to the lower ten thousand, and are never likely to be popular anywhere, as few shoulders can stand thick gathers of woolen material,’ and the breadth of figure they give to some people is simply appalling. Cloth Tam o’Shanters are still much worn. Hats? are generally beaver or plush, and'very large. Bonnets are mostly plush, small and close. Velverteen dresses are still almost universal,- and gold and- silver braid for - trimming. Plush > is the greatest rival of velveteen, and is made up with satin for evening wear. Walking dresses are short, cut round with a kilted flounce, often-with a draped scarf. Tartan satin ds fashionable for the draped flounce,'but requires a tall woman to* Stand it. They are even

worn in the evening with trained skirts.” “ Eye-peeping ” is the new game, Two holes are made in a screen. The performers stand behind it and place their eyes in the holes, while the persons in front guess to whom the eyes belong. Nothing is so good or wholesome as . the simple truth ; and he who helps us to find out a single ’real thing about ourselves does us .a far greater service than he could-• 'by liMiseriminately under-valuing us. There is only now and then hri opportunity for displaying great courage, or eveij great wisdom.; but every hourin the flay bffers a ta shfcw our* good m-a time, ciiaHty/’land MBdidss of heart.