THE PARISIAN FASHIONS.

Poverty Bay Standard, Volume IX, Issue 915, 5 February 1881, Page 2

THE PARISIAN FASHIONS.

[From the Qweea.j Antique silver ornaments are in high favor, and those who do not possess them wear imitations which are not easy to detect. Russian ornaments — enamel plaques of Byzantine style—mounted also in old silver are much affected ; they are heavy and less conspicuous than the French ornaments of the same type, and yet they accord wonderfully well with the dark velvet and plush costumes now generally worn. (Another eccentric ornament is a viper made of striped plush with metallic head and brilliant eyes, it is worn round the neck and sometimes it is twisted round the crown of a bonnet.

There is a new fashion of wearing bracelets above the elbow- instead of round the wrist; anti if a bracelet is wanting, a brooch representing a lizard, made entirely of diamonds, replaces it. This is to be seen with a theatre toilette. Bodice bouquets are still in vogue. Sweet peas mixed with roses and mignonette are the rage in light materials ; but for dark dresses holly, with its brilliant green leaves and bright red berries, carries off the palm. A bunch of this holly looks well on the left of the new seal cloth mantles, and on the fancy muffs that always accompanies them. These seal mantles are bordered with woven feathers, which differ considerably from the feather bands formerly used. The quill of each feather is removed, and the plume is rendered light and fluffy and made to resemble fur in its extreme delicacy; and this is made up into bands, as well as cuffs and collars. White kid gloves are once more seen, but do not attain the extreme popularity of tan and biscuit-colored Swede gloves for evening wear. Stockings are still worn to match the dress.

Braiding, as a method of dress ornamentation, is quite de retour, some of the prettiest serge, diagonal and cloth dresses being heavily braided. Gold and silver braid is also much used. We seem to have run riot in the matter of headgear, and glaring plaid plush is by no means uncommon. Rather new and decidedly uncommon are the Tudor bonnets, with the square bag-like crown, which distinguished the coif of those days, but here all resemblance ceases, for on to this is set an upstanding brim, loaded with feathers. Tam O’Shanters are done to death, but there, is. a novelty in them. Imagine the crown dividing into a series of strips, between which are puffings of a contrasting color ; the crown is generally of shawl patterned cloth, the puffings red plush. Children seemed better pleased with the Grannie bonnets than any other, but these are getting altogether won-

derful, for the hard stiff fronts are covered with fur, often light-colored sable, while the fnil soft crowns are of colored satin.

As a proof how warm and comfortable we like to be, a new red underskirt is worn this winter, with a knitted scalloped border, and all the rest of it a thick flannel plush, with a fleecy surface like a blanket. There is generally a prevailing livery in dress which marks each season in London. Just now it is red plush bonnets, surplice, cassock, or Mother Hubbard cloaks, and lace-trimmed muffs. The cassock cloaks are made in plain silk and brocade; the most stylish are of the brocade, reaching to the hem of the skirt, with a close quilling of lace down the front and round the throat. They should be cut all in one piece, and gathered at the back horizontally from the neck to the waist, but not round the neck ; the short sleeve has a decided cuff drawn into the wrist. The Mother Hubbard cloak is gathered in circles round the neck, and the last runner often terminates with a deep fall of fringe. Imitation laces are more beautiful than ever, and no account of the London fashions would be complete without mentioning thdm, for everyone wears them, and the prejudice against “ machine-made laces ” is gradually disappearing. The best are “ Mirecourt point,” “Modena point,” double or antique Valenciennes, Mechlin, and Brussels, and the old English thread, which is really beautiful. In black laces the Spanish is improved, and there is a Chantilly which in appearance is equal to the real fabric. The wide Spanish lace, which is sold by the yard, will probably replace gauze and net for evening wear. The beaded jerseys are very handsome, and likewise costly, but are effective in the evening; the last application of beads being made to the long gloves, which have the backs beaded in a pattern up the arm, even above the elbow.