NOTES OF A JOURNEY ON THE EAST COAST.

Poverty Bay Standard, Volume III, Issue 293, 28 July 1875, Page 2

NOTES OF A JOURNEY ON THE EAST COAST.

Continued from our last. On the opposite side of the Waiapu from Waiomatatini, and somedistanee above Pukemaire, is the large settlement of Kaitaha, situate on a fine flat between the bush and the river; above this the valley becomes narrow, there are, however, numerous kaingas dotted here and there ou both banks of the river extending as far up as Te Rotokautuku “ Oil Spring Block ;” a short description of the latter may not be considered out of place. The Rotokautuku Block is situated on the left bank of the Waiapu river extending up to the junction of the Tapuwairoa, with Te Mata; there are three oil springs on the land from which, in iu the height of summer, the oil may be gathered nearly pure; these springs are Occasionally ignited by surrounding feru fires; they burn for a considerable time till the surface oil is exhausted. The oil from the springs on the Ahi-o-te Atua Block burns for a week at a time owing to the great quantity of inflammable gas always rising to the surface, the flames mount to a great height, affording a truly magnificent spectacle on a dark night; the whole country appears to be impregnated with oil judging from the number of Springs about. A very fair sample of goal has also been found in the district, and as there are good indications of the presence of other minerals, we may reasonably prognosticate for the East Coast a prosperous future when its natural resources are developed. Leaving Waiomatatini we skirt round the base of the hills, passing many cultivations, standing in which are numerous stages (whata) loaded with corn which seems to be abundant this year on the coast; ascending the terrace above, we arrive at Te Horo, a compact little village placed on a small sheltered terrace commanding a fine view of the upper part of the Waiapu valley, and the adjacent country; a wooden house is in course of erection here, probably for an “ hotel.” The natives on the coast appear to have a mania at the present time for building wooden houses; there is another thing that strikes the attention of anyone travelling about the coast, that is the number of children at the different kaingas, a,fact which augurs well for the future of the Ngatiporou tribe. Passing by Te Horo, a couple of miles over a rather bad bit of road, across the range and down to the sea brings us again to Te Awanui where, overtaken by bad weather, we were obliged to remain several-days. Mountingagain we resume our journey back to Waipiro. This part of the road I have already described. The country will be valuable for pastoral purposes when

the scab is eradicated which is in a fair way of being accomplished if the scheme already initiated for that purpose be carried out in its integrity,— which is pretty certain of being the case, as the native flock-owners are in favour of it, —so that this pest which has so long retarded the progress of the East Coast, deterring speculators from leasing the land, will probably, in the course of twelve or eighteen months, be rooted out. On arriving at Waipiro we are immediately struck with the changed aspect of the place, so different from when we left it a month before, then everything wore an air of gaiety and bustle consequent on the large assemblage of natives to attend the Native Lands Court, at one spot might be seen a party of grave looking men listening with attention to some garrulous old gray-beard vehemently asserting his claims, derived through a long thhe of ancestry, to a certain piece of land; at another might be seen a number of thoughtless and light-hearted people applauding vociferously some witticism or repartee or funny tale about the “ pakeha yonder, along the broad strand, were merry groups in varied costumes, wending their way with shouts and laughter to. and from the different kaingas. “ But a change has come o’er the spirit of the dream.” Looking now along the beach we see a solitary individual tramping along, the only man in sight; and the contrast between what is, and what was, is so great that we are involuntarily reminded of Goldsmith’s “ Deserted village.” Leaving Waipiro, a short canter along the beach brings us to Kongore, when my atteution was attracted by a number of whale boats on the bows of which were painted in gaudy colours, stars and other designs to make them look more attractive; whaling appears to be a favourite pursuit with the natives along the East Coast, judging from thenumber of boats and.men employed at the different places adapted for the prosecution of this dangerous and uncertain calling, they have not, however, yet been rewarded with much success. Harfly, and. brave, though indolent, the Maoris are well adapted by nature for this employment, long intervals of idleness, succeeded by the excitement of the chase, or cutting up, and trying out, the whales when caught possess peculiar charms foriour aboriginal friends ; they are, as a rulei excellent hands in, a boat. While I was at Waiapu the natives were engaged taking off pigs and produce to a vessel lying at anchor in the roadstead ; there being a “good roll” on at the time, they were obliged to watchj a “slant” to launch their boat, and the tact and address they displayed when the favourable opportunity arrived was worthy of admiration. | Proceeding on our journey we commence the ascent of the Tawhiti hill, famous for the fine views of the surrounding country to be obtained' from its summit ; following the bridle track cut by the natives under the; supervision of Mr. Winter, about half-an-hour’s climbing brings us to the top, where we are well repaid for our exertion by the splendid prospect of sea and land spread out like a panorama before us. Looking seaward the eye ranges over a broad expanse of the great Pacific now sleeping in tranquil beauty as if never ruffled by storms, “ Time writes no wrinkle on its azure brow,” and the coast line, for many a league, with all its headlands and indentations clearly and beautifully defined, the whole prospect bounded only by the limitless horizon. Turning from the unstable element to the land side of the picture, a totally different, ■ though no less striking prospect meets the eye; commencing some few miles back from the coast, and stretching back in, apparently, endless succession till lost in the blue distance, are the rugged forest-clad ranges of the interior containing many peaks of considerable altitude. Towering above all the rest with its head lost in the clouds, is Ikurangi; not far distant are the lesser peaks Aorangi and Taitai, with Raukumara in the back ground. Ikurangi, the highest mountain on the East Coast, 5535 feet high, with its huge, shapeless, bulk surrounded by other considerable elevations, offers a complete contrast to the symmetrical beauty of outline of Taranaki, or Mount. Egmont, which stands alone, in solitary grandeur, the most conspicuous land mark of the West Coast. The natives generally have very superstitious ideas about these high peaks, (which they look upon as tapu and the abode of spirits) whose anger is. aroused at any attempt made to invade their sacred precincts; the ire of these divinities is manifested in the form of a thick mist which envelopes the audacious intruder compelling his return. I understand that a party is to be sent during the ensuing summer to ascend Ikurangi for scientific purposes; if in the vicinity and at leisure I should be glad to make one to scale this hitherto untrodden “ Manuga tipua.” (To be concluded in our next.J