NOTES OF A JOURNEY ON THE EAST COAST.

Poverty Bay Standard, Volume III, Issue 291, 21 July 1875, Page 2

NOTES OF A JOURNEY ON THE EAST COAST.

Con tinued f rom our last. Leaving Aku Aku, a short distance brings us to Matahu, Major Ropata’s kainga, where there is a large flagstaff erected; there is a whaling party established here. A short distance further and we reach Whareponga, a settlement at the mouth of a good sized creek which the road takes up for some distance, and crossing over the hill and down again to the sea we reach Tuparoa, there is a road round the beach from Whareponga but it is only available at low water; the one over the hill being the better road. Tuparoa is a large settlement situated on a sheltered slope facing the sea, and boasting of one hotel kept by Mr. Milner. Leaving Tuparoa, the road ascends a considerable hill, following the range, and down again to the beach at Reporua, a good sized village ; keeping the beach from here about six miles brings ustoTe Awanui, a very good shipping place, the landing being sheltered by reefs which run out to a considerable distance on either side. This settlement does not wear a very inviting aspect, from the absence of any flat land; it is rather difficult to find suitable building sites, the whole face of the hill appears to be a series of land slips which render house building a rather unsafe speculation ; here are stationed the small party of constabulary, under Sergt. Shirley, sent up to maintain law and order amongst the Ngatiporou. There are two hotels side by side, one kept by Mr. E. Walker, where you will get good accommodation for horse and man, he has gone to considerable expense and trouble to fence in a paddock which singularly enough is on the top of a hill. Here are to be boiled down the scabby sheep which the native owners have at last been induced to part with after much time and trouble spent in negotiation only lately brought to a successful issue by Captain Porter; the country where these sheep arc at present running is between Waipiro and Waiapu, and as it is very fair country , and not overstocked, the sheep ought to be in good condition by next March, the time appointed for the boiling down operations to commence. Almost within sight of Te Awanui, is Wai-o-Tautu the kainga of Ruka te Aratapu, one of the most enlightened natives on this coast, he is having a good sized wooden building erected for a store, having given up sheep-farming, and taken to store keeping for a living. Continuing along the beach for about two miles the road takes over the range and into the Waiapu valley ; on descending we pass through the large straggling settlement of Ti, thence down to the river. The Waiapu river is about the same size as the TukiTuki in Hawke’s Bay, perhaps a little larger, the lower part of the river divides into several branches flowing over a broad shingle bed nearly a mile wide ; it is in bad repute with the European settlers living in the district,doubtless from the number of people who have been drowned in it. Under ordinary circumstances the river, though rapid, is safe enough to anyone accustomed to fording rivers, as the bottom is hard shingle and free from snags and boulders ; a strauger, however, would do well to take a native guide with him. Crossing the river and proceeding down the valley, we reach the native accommodation house kept by Anaru Kahaki; here we were obliged to remain during the night, it came on to blow from the westward with great violence and the house being an old one and exposed to the full force of the blast, shook and creaked in a very ominous and suggestive manner; towards midnight the window blew in with a crash, which bo alarmed our native host and his better half that they, doubtless concluding that “ prudence was the better part of valour” betook themselves for the rest of the night to the shelter of a boat-shed. We, however, having “turned, in” decided to remain where we were, though kept awake by the creaking of the old building, and the dismal howls of an unfortunate dog outside exposed 'to the fury of the elements. The gale having expended its force, we continued our journey next day, to Hick’s Bay. The road from Waiapu follows the beach for some distance, then striking up the bed of a small creek we take up the range leading on to Te Kautuku, or East Cape bill, a very steep and dangerous hill for horses at this time of the year; the summit commands a fine view of the adjacent country on either side of this noted promontory. Descending by a steep and slippery track, we reach the beach, and continuing on for about a mile we arrive opposite to East Cape Island (Whangaokeno) which is about two miles from the shore; this has been a famous fishing ground of the natives from time immemorial; it is singular that the only fresh water to be found is a small spring below high water mark ; a light house is shortly to be

erected on it which will be a great boon to navigators. The road leaves the beach for a shortdistance to avoid a rocky headland; for here, as at many other places along the coast, it is necessary to travel at low water. Continuing along the coast we at last reach Horoera, the settlement of Te Wikiriwhi, a Ngatiporou chief of some standing, a venerable and patriarchal looking man, and very hospitable to strangers, ; a short distance further brings us to Horotua, situate at the mouth of a good sized creek; here resides the Hon. Te Mokena M.H.R. ; passing ou we reach Te Maruhou kainga situate on a fineslope facingthe sea and backed by. high cliffs covered with bush and scrub, down which leap numerous cascades which, glistening in the sunlight have a most pleasing effect; the top of the cliff appears to be table land of considerable extent, covered with dense bush, and is a continuation of the rugged mountainous region commonly known as the Uriwera country which has been, until within the last few years, bterraincognita to Europeans; it stretches from the confines of Taupo to within a few miles of the East Cape, and from the Mohaka river, on the South, to the Bay of Plenty district on the North; it consists mainly of high mountain ranges, intercepted by deep gorges or ravines ; the greater part is clothed with luxuriant vegetation “ forest primeval.” In this country take their rise the Wairoa, Waipaoa, Uawa, Waiapu, Awatere, Motu, Waio Eka and Whakatane besides many smaller rivers. From this inhospitable tract Te Kooti, with the aid of the Uriwera, issued forth on those murderous raids which carried ruin and desolation to so many of the East Coast settlements, who, owing to its inaccessible nature, abounding as it does with natural fastnesses, was enabled so long with impunity to baffle and elude the Colonial Forces. During the last four or five years this region has been traversed from end to end by numerous expeditions, till it has become quite familiar to the coast tribes, and no longer a dread, as of yore. (To bh continued,}