WORK FOR THE

Otago Witness, Issue 4033, 30 June 1931, Page 11

WORK FOR THE

the Greenhouse and nursery In last week’s notes I mentioned that this is a good time to making a sowing of antirrhinums, nemesia, tomatoes, lettuce, schizanthus, clarkias, and godetias. The greenhouse annuals, such as schizanthus and clarkias, are better sown in small pots, five oi six seeds in each, and if they all germinate thin out to three in each. Antirrhinums, tomatoes, etc., are usually sown in boxes and afterwards pricked out into other boxes as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle. Weed seeds, insect and fungoid pests are always very troublesome in seed sowing soils, and it is a great advantage if they can be sterilised in some way. We sterilise all our soil by steam, and in this way not only avoid many pests and weeds, but the soil is in a more healthy condition for the growth of seedlings. In a- small way soil can be sterilised by placing a few inches of water in the bottom of a petrol tin, filling it up with soil nnd then standing on a fire until the water is all evaporated. If the soil is very damp it can be put into a tin and baked over a fire for some time, but it should not be allowed to burn, or the organic matter will be destroyed. By treating soil with a chemical such as apterite the insect and fungoid pests are destroyed, but the seeds of weeds are not hurt. When treating with apterite the soil should be fairly moist. The apterite, which is reddish powder, is mixed with it and then covered over with wet sacks to keep in the fumes of the gas which is liberated, until they carry out their deadly work. Soil which has been sterilised either by steam or chemicals should be spread out for a few days before being used for either potting or seed sowing. THE FLOWER GARDEN I have frequently mentioned the importance of pruning all kinds of ornamental trees and shrubs to maintain a good shape, to keep them within reasonable bounds, and to enable them to show off their flowers to advantage. The shrubbery is 'often allowed to develop into a tangled mass of vegetation, much of which is dead or dying, and the more delicate and choice kinds are overgrown by the robust and commoner kinds. When properly treated each specimen should stand out on its own more or less, the bottom branches should be clear •of the ground to allow for cleaning and cultivating, and all dead wood should be removed. Flowering shrubs divide themselves into two groups —"those which flower on wood formed the previous year and on spurs on the old wood, and those which flower on the young wood of'the same season’s growth. This is not the right season for pruning those shrubs which flower in early spring and summer, such as lilacs, rhododendrons, azaleas, pyrus, prunus, several of the spiraeas, brooms, deutzias, etc.’ They are really jjetter pruned .when in flower or immediately afterwards, so that they may have a long season to develop their wood and form their flower buds before winter. They can, however, be thinned out considerably, all weak and cross growths being removed as well as all which trail on the ground. The tips of the longer branches can be cut away, and the stronger branches shortened a bit to maintain a reasonable shape. Foliage shrubs can -be pruned back to a reasonable shape and size, but not with the hedge shears, which leave too many cut leaves and stunted shoots. Those which flower on the young growths, such as Hydrangea paniculata, most of the Buddleias and Caeonothus, Gloire de Versailles, are better cut right back to within an inch of the old wood to encourage young vigorous growths. When rhododendrons and azaleas become too large it is better to cut them hard back and lose a year’s flowers. They will soon make young flowering wood again. After pruning, the borders should receive a dressing of bone meal or basic super, and if bulbs are planted among the shrubs they can be forked.

** NOTES BY

D. TANNOCK, A.H.R.H.S

If there are no bulbs they can be dug lightly. Some tijno agoT put in a list or roses suitable for ordinary gardens, but in case it may have been mislaid I will repeat it again. Twenty-four varieties suitable for cutting and garden decoration, but not necessarily for exhibition are:—Betty Uprichard, Shot Silk, Madam Butterfly, Golden Emblem, Souv de Georger I’erent, Mrs Wymas Quin, Mrs Henry Morse, Margaret Dickson Hamil, Margaret M'Gredy, Dame Edith Helen,, Sunny South, K. of K.. W. C. Gaunt, John Henry, Isohel, Gwyneth Jones, Annie Laurie, Mrs A. R. Barraclough, Emma ' Wright, Etoile de Holland, Ophelia, Covent Garden, W. C. Gaunt, and Coraline Tislant. Those who want only 12 can take the first on the list. THE VEGETABLE AND FRUIT GARDEN The work of digging, trenching,'manuring, and general cultivation will still occupy most of the time in the vegetable garden, but if will not be long before we are able to start sowing and planting again. Pruning and planting fruit trees and bushes will also require attention. Seed catalogues will soon be arriving, and it is really better to go through them, make a selection of the kinds you require, and send in the order at once so that they will be available when weather conditions are suitable.

ORCHIDS Though orchids are usually considered as the aristocrats of the vegetable kingdom, and their cultivation only suitable for those with plenty of glass and plenty of money, there are a number which are quite easy to grow, cheap to purchase, and suitable for any greenhouse with a little fire heat. It is said that they will grow quite satisfactorily along with geraniums, but are more satisfactory when a section of the greenhouse can be set aside for their cultivation, where they can obtain the peculiar conditions as to air and moisture which they like. Those who desire to embark on an interesting hobby should take up the cultivation of some of the hardier kinds, such as cypripediums, cymbidiums and odontoglossums, and as their enthusiasm increases they can go on to cattleyas, lelias, dendrobiums and coelogynes. There are a great many cypripediums, some natives of tropical countries, others temperate, and some quite hardy. The species which every amateur should start with is cypripedium insigne and some of its varieties. It has leaves about nine inches long, a stalk about one foot high bearing a single flower four inches across, and shining as if varnished. The dorsal sepal is large, oval; the apex bent forward, apple-green, with dull purple spots and a white margin. The different vanities vary both in the size f>f the flower and the amount of white on the top sepal. Owing to Its peculiar shape it is called the “slipper orchid” or “ ladies’ slipper,” and it is a native of Sy 1 het. It flowers during winter, and the flowers will last a month or more, either on the plants or when cut*, both characteristics adding very much to their value.

Being semi-terrestrial in habit it 4s grown in ordinary pots in a mixture of half turfy loam, half peat or fern fibre, with a sprinkling of charcoal, crocks and sand. It is not elevated above the edge of the pot like some kinds, but is kept just below the rim to allow for watering. Potting is done just after the flowering season is past, and if the soil is exhausted and inclined to become muddy it is better to wash the roots clean in tepid water before placing them in the new soil. Moderate crocking is required and the lumpy mixture should be worked in carefully among the roots. After potting keep in a fairly close atmosphere, syringe them overhead in all favouarble weather, and keep growing steadily throughout the summer. Cymbidium Lowianum is the most popular species of this genus, and like the Cypripedium spectabile one of the easiest to accommodate. The stout flower spikes are from two to four feet long, arching, and clothed from base to point with flowers, each of which is four inches across. The sepals and petals are equal, spreading, yellowish-green, with lines of brown and the lip is scoopshaped, with large, erect, yellow-sided lobes, the front being coloured deep maroon. The flowers are developed in winter or early spring, and they remain fresh for many weeks. It really requires intermediate house treatment, but will do quite well in the cool greenhouse when in flower. It is a native of Burma and will thrive in a similar mixture to the Cypripedium insigne, but it iS not necessary to repot the plants Cvery year unless the soil becomes exhausted or muddy. It likes .plenty of water during the summer and a little liquid manure when the flower stems are developing will assist. This is a plant which can be potted on until it becomes a large specimen.

Odqptoglossums are among the most desirable of orchids for providing cut flowers, and especially for button holes. They are natives of the alpine regions of Mexico, Central America, Peru, and Columbia, and like true alpines they like plenty of fresh air and moisture, and little or no artificial heat. They are

better grown on the cool side of the greenhouse on a sparred bench, and the bottom ventilators should never be shut except when very cold winds are blowing. Odontoglossum crispum and its many varieties are the best-known and most suitable to begin with. This is a true epiphyte, and when carefully managed, it should be possible to have flowers all-thc year round from a few plants. The pseudo-bulbs are about 3 inches long, each bearing a pair of strap shaped leaves. Each pseudo-bulb bears only one flower stem. This is arched, sometimes branching and bearing a number of flowers from 2 inches to 3 inches across. The sepals and petals are usually white, the petals being much undulated and often fringed or toothed. O. crispum should be repotted as soon as the plants being to emit new roots from the newly made or developing pseudoJiulbs. They are put into small pots, half filled with crocks or chopped up fern rhizomes, the potting mixture being peat or fern fibre and living sphagnum, chopped up in equal parts, with a sprinkling of sand and charcoal. Place the in the middle of the pot, fill up fairly firmly all round, and have the base of the pseudo bulbs above the rim of the pot. The plants should be watered as soon as potted, but overhead spraying should not be practised except in warm dry weather, it being better to maintain a -moist atmosphere by frequently damping the bench and among the pots.

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS D. C., West Taieri. —The name of the plant sent is Earina mucornata, one of the native' orchids. It is an epiphyte and lives on rocks and tree trunks, preferring broadleaf. “ Wouldbe Gardener.” —I am afraid the only thing to do with your sweet peas is to pull them out and resow in the spring or obtain plants from the seedsmen. They are not likely to survive the winter. You put the seed in too soon. “ Inquirer,” Central Otago.—The name of the plant sent is Erigeron multiradiatus, a very good form. C. F., sand used for asphalting is quite good for opening up heavy land. Washed sand is better, but for ordinary garden purposes the ordinary sand will do. Sea sand is also very good for heavy soil, and specially good for car-' nations. The plant sent is a Polygonum, often planted on rockeries and grown as a basket plant. W. J. C., Papakio.—l am afraid there is no reliable cure for the' grass grub. As a rule they do not attack new lawns, and by digging and resowing there is little trouble for a year or two. Do not dig up this time; simply sow some’*'fresh seed in the spring and topdress with some " fine soil.