IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 4033, 30 June 1931, Page 58

IN FASHION’S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

By

Marguerite.

There is unlimited scope for individuality in frocks of to-day, as for the greater part they are simple in style, smartness being given by little trimming touches or the accessories that can be more or less a specialty of the wearer. Dressmakers have settled down to making practical short-skirted dresses for the day and evening dresses to the instep or to the ankles. Ruching. scalloping, insertions or triangular pieces, tucking, stitching, and gathering are the trimmings for dressy afternoon and evening dresses. There is a decided trend towards more elaboration in dress, but, however elaborate the surface, the fitted flowing line of the silhouette is simple. A skirt may show diagonal seamings, cluster shirrings, or fine pleating and tiers, but it lies flat from waist to knees and fits closely. While black is much favoured for both day and evening wear, there is a marked latitude in the matter of colour, which includes dark green enlivened by lighter green trimmings and white; rust and wine tones; rose, beige, and brown with orange or white; navy blue with white and blue accessories; and grey with black. Peltry, white or dyed, applied at the neckline and cuffs or bordering the peplum, will be fashionable for some months, and many women will carry a small muff. Fur is both comfortable and chic. Flat crepe and cloth are favoured fabrics. The more formal afternoon dresses are made of velvet and satin facecloth, very fine and soft. Velvet and crepe satin are important for afternoon and evening wear, as they are such drapable fabrics and fall with clinging effect. Georgette is used for many frocks that are tucked, shirred, or pleated, and show' much hand work. Little bits of very smart, but often need the clever fingers of the experienced dressmaker to be applied successfully.

■ Ribbon is a fashionable trimming, and the home worker will find that ribbon frilling gives a delightful finish to a simple afternoon frock —three or four rows of double silk or moire ribbon round the plain neckline with an inch between each row. Similar ribbon on the sleeves in a spiral effect to the elbow, a knot on one shoulder, and similar knots at the elbows complete the scheme —-brown ribbon on a beige frock, navy on a light navy frock, and pin-dotted ribbon on a black frock. A frock with a jabot frill of the material may have the jabot edged with very narrow ribbon frilling O’- binding in a deeper or a lighter tone, with gauntlet cuffs to match. A draped neckline may be finished the same way, cut like a wide collar and drawn up in the centre front with a dainty diamante buckle or a small brooch. A ribbon belt fastened with a matching buckle will complete the effect. A simple satin blouse to wear with the afternoon suit, made in crossover style and bordered from neckline to waistline with matching colour niched satin ribbon or pin-dotted ribbon, is extra chic.

This illustrates a most attractive afternoon frock of black flat crepe. The skirt shows the favoured intricate seaming, tiny tucks being used to shape the fitted waistline. The vest is of embroidered batiste, and a pendant jewelled pin is placed at the deep opening. The graceful jabot is

of sand-coloured satin with the narrowest of black crepe binding. The loops above the wrist may be continued to the elbow, and should be lined with the sand-colour satin and attached with small crystal buttons. The model may. be copied in cinnamon brown velvet with a cream lace vest and parchment-coloured satin jabots.

All kinds of smart little garments have been designed to wear over dressy frocks when the topcoat is removed. This will be found a useful and practical fashion. An afternoon dress can become an evening dress by the removing of a bolero or a little coatee. An evening frock may have a short tie-on velvet cape that is slipped off easily in place of a scarf. A short length of pretty figured velvet will make

a cosy* short coatee for informal evening wear. A lining of georgette is a wonderful improvement, which will be accentuated if the lining is in some vivid shade. ''A straight cardigan shape is perhaps the most desirable and easily made. A wee rucked pocket made in the lining will be found useful.

Tiny box pleating, as well as fine pleating, is in fashion. Two or three circularcut tiers, without yoke, may be finished with very narrow pleatings at the edge. Tiers may be attached to a yoke and finely pleated or box pleated. A becoming style for the older woman is shown in a frock of black crepe with the bodice slightly pouched and belted slightly below normal, the small “ V ” neckline filled in with a vestee of finely pleated flesh chiffon, and the slenderising tunic, threequarter length, cut in sections halfway up and all round to show the finely pleated skirt. The sections are bordered with narrow bands of flat fur. * * * This illustrates a smart afternoon frock of deep wine red flat crepe trimmed with tiny ball buttons in matching tone. The two-tiered skirt is mounted to a yoke, the top tier being trimmed with the buttons. A circular-cut collar dips to the waistline

in front and is edged with the tiny buttons. The front is white embroidered batiste. There are tight lower sleeves and button-trimmed bell sleeves. Seven dozen buttons will be required to decorate the frock.

Buttons—dozens of them —trim afternoon and morning frocks and suits. The greater number are of plain or fancy bone, crystal, or pearl, and covered little balls. The tweed or cloth suit or frock may have matching material covered buttons. A simple white -wool jersey tuckin blouse should have about two dozen tiny pearl buttons sewn in straight lines to follow the curve of the plain round neckline. Such buttons will make a chic and novel finish to youj blouse. Tinyfancy buttons may decorate 'a crepe de chine blouse in the same way, and appear in a close row down the centre of a jabot frill and from elbow to wrist on the sleeves. Two link buttons, pearl or crystal, will give the smart touch to the velvet suit.

This illustrates the tailored type of frock —a style much favoured this season—of bottle green facecloth with a scarf collar of white lapin. The closefitting felt hat will show a touch of the

lapin. Tomato red wool crepe is another suggestion, with a scarf collar of brown galyak, a black patent leather belt, and a hat bound with black ribbon and having a small tailored bow at the centre front.

Some of you no doubt have a last season’s frock, that is too short for presentday fashion. If it is a flared skirt, it is best to unpick the side seams, press, and cut with a little less width from the hips to the hemline, so that it will fall gracefully when the seams are sewn together again. Add a hem of contrasting material to a lining and attach to the top edge of the skirt. .Join to the bodice again, and you have a modern tunic frock. Collar and cuffs of the contrasting material will complete the smart effect. Add a pretty new belt, and your tunic frock will be right up to date, and smart too.

A delightful afternoon frock I saw was of rust Canton crepe with the skirt seamed and flowing from the knees. The fitted bodice had a cowl neckline above a yoke effect of lattice material, and the deep gauntlet cuffs showed the same lattice treatment. Some of the strands of the lattice work were knotted on the left shoulder, the ends falling down the back of the dress to the waistline. The belt was of twisted velvet in a matching tone fastened with a very small jewelled buckle.

This illustrates two new hats. Small, close-fitting hats will be. worn for some months. Flat petal effects, as shown in the top hat, are very smart carried low over one ear and high above the ear on the opposite side. The bottom sketch is a becoming tricorne of black velvet with a black and white feather fancy. Brown velvet and a honey-coloured feather mount is another suggestion. A brilliant-jewelled

pin may be used in place of the feather fancy, with a matching pin on the frock bodice. For the girl who makes her own headwear a plain little hat with a halo trimming in some vivid colour will be the last word in smartness. Twist lame, silk, or velvet over strips of wadding, catching it loosely here and there; make the rolls into two rings to fit the crown of the hat, and place them round it, crossing them just over the ears at each side.